89 2001 Not Idling

Hey guys, first post, been lucking since mid winter. Just picked up an 89 2001, when I picked it up the previous owner (a close friend) stated the boat "just came from the marina from winter storage, they put a new fuel pump in it and said it runs great" was supposed to run perfectly but I'm betting the marina never water tested... As soon as I got home I dropped it in and it runs but won't idle. Opened the engine cover and noticed fuel leaking from both ends of the fuel line (pump to carb).

Spent today pulling the carb apart and while it was dirty, nothing catastrophic. I did find a slightly dirty jet, hoping that was the culprit but it wasn't.

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction or let me know if further details are needed.

-Cheers!

Ross,
Welcome to CCfan. Yes, we need some more information as Andy has requested and answering his questions which are all good.

How about some pictures? We always ask for them. A diary entry is always a good move as well.

It sure sounds like that "marina" is full of back yard hacks!! Who was is so other members don't make the mistake of taking their boat there. Were they even a CC dealer?? Why did they put a new fuel pump in it? Did they even bother to check the pressure?? With that leak, did they even tighten the flare nuts? Hopefully the line is steel and not back yard rubber!

Sounds like plugged idle circuits in the carb. You may have to soak it & then run some fine wire through the passages to clean it out. But just a guess on my part.

Spent the morning working on the boat. No vacuum leaks around any of the base gaskets, Proper voltage at Choke and the choke gap was good. Haven't gotten it running long enough to check idle screws or timing. Checked point gap, was at .013 reset to recommended .018, Pulled plugs to check gap, gap was 40 I believe recommended gap is 35 also I believe plugs to be wrong, Autolite 25's are installed, not the recommended 203 or 3303. Haven't dove into the internet to check for cross references yet.

Lastly I believe the engine may be right hand rotation... All drive belts are rotating clockwise, but i'm not sure if something in the transmission might switch it to left hand... Can't keep em all straight.   Can anyone tell by my serial card the rotation?

Model: PLD-PR-R12/PP
Serial: 292344
Firing order: 13726548

Given that I'm perceiving plugs, plug gaps, and point gap to be wrong, I tried to confirm my plug wires were also installed properly. I'm using the PCM Ford & Chevy 89 manual from the reference page on here and my wiring from distributor to plugs doesn't match any of the layouts in the manual. If anyone has any knowledge of the proper layout I wanted to confirm proper firing sequence before I dove any deeper. I've included a diagram below of the current layout.

Let me know if anyone needs a specific shot. In regards to Bones 71 I did clean the cab but didn't dip it, I removed all of the surface white corrosion but there very well could be some in the hinge points, if so a full dip may be in order... Thanks again everyone for the help!

Can you tell if your choke flap is kicking open at all after it fires? If everything is working ok, it should kick open just a little after the engine starts. Then, slowly, it should open fully, as the electricity heats up the coil in the choke cap.

24 is on the money Eddie.

No, set the point gap at the proper spec and adjust the ignition timing from there. If it's too far off to fire you need to just move the dizzy as you crank. Or you can set the engine to TDC compression stroke on the 1 cylinder, pop the cap off, point the rotor directly at the #1 cylinder plug wire, slightly advance from there, and it will probably start right up.

After checking cap and rotor condition I'm thinking he may want to verify firing order. His drawing looks correct as long as the #1 wire is in fact that.
I would bring the #1 cylinder to TDC on compression stroke open the cap and confirm by position of the rotor where #1 is.

Don't laugh... How do you verify TDC on these motors? I'm betting it's a little more involved than putting a wrench on the crank and looking through a sight window like my mx bikes.

Thanks guys!

Ross it's no big deal. Remove all the plugs(that will make it easier) get a breaker bar and socket have someone rotate the motor in the correct rotation while you put your thumb over the #1 plug hole. When you feel the pressure your on the compression stroke. I put a wood dowel in through the plug hole and slowly rotate the motor watching the dowel. When the dowel goes out to the furthest point then starts to drop that's TDC.

PS
When you find that spot you should also be showing TDC on the timing marks

Got a meter, I'll check it out! Thanks!