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1986 - New Motor

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newguy1986 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote newguy1986 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1986 - New Motor
    Posted: July-23-2014 at 1:11pm
All,

Not sure if there is any interest in my battles with this 1986. It has been a 3 year ordeal that I think i am at the end of.

I had a problem of water in my oil after over heating which I couldnt solve with new heads and gaskets. I bought a short block and finally got everything assembled and put into the boat. I wanted to show off the motor alittle bit.

everything ran good this past weekend. I took it really slow and didnt get over 2500 RPMs. I have about 8 hours on it so far.

Comments?






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2014 at 1:58pm
Looks awesome.

My grandmother used to say "pretty is as pretty does" which I think meant something like what good is a hot chick if she doesn't put-out.

Hopefully this motor puts out a great for you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2014 at 3:09pm
Looks great, assuming you broke in the cam already I would be putting some (10+) runs from idle to full speed and back to idle on it to set the rings... and see how it runs.   8 hours all under 2500 rpm is not my preferred way to treat a new engine, but opinions vary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2014 at 3:30pm
Cool looking valve covers. Did you do them yourself?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote newguy1986 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2014 at 3:50pm
Joe,

How would handle a brand new motor? I'm going off what I was told by the engine maker which was "take it easy and less than 2500 rpms for a weekend, change oil and it should be good."

A buddy of mine air brushed to valve covers. They came out good I think
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2014 at 4:44pm
All my life I've asked how to break in a new motor to everyone I know. I've heard, take it easy at first, I've heard what Joe says, I heard treat it like you would any other motor. I've had one say start off at high rpms and slowly easy it down for first ten minutes then run it hard and back down to idle for first ten hours or so, keeping the speed always varying to seat in the rings. The later is what I've done in my very limited experience.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote newguy1986 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2014 at 12:09am
Also, I see my oil pressure at about 60. I have been reading and I'm thinking this is a bad thing. Any thoughts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2014 at 3:59am
60 PSI will not hurt anything. It does waste horsepower but not a lot.
Check to make sure it is running at the correct temperature. Cold oil does not lubricate as well and causes high oil pressure.
If it increases above 60 PSI as you accelerate that may be bad, I have had several engines with 60 PSI at idle and at RPM, I like it.
The old rule of thumb is 10 psi needed for every 1,000 RPM minimum.
With 60 PSI you are good for 6,000 RPM as far as oil supply goes using the old school rule of thumb.
Break in on a new engine: most critical is cam break in, the first 20 minutes running must be at 1,500 RPM or more, usually 2,500 RPM max.
This is to get your lifters spinning and keep them spinning till they are fully broken in to your new cam. This is a one time thing with every flat tappet engine on start up. If you don't get them spinning on start up you will need to start over with a new camshaft and lifters due to a flat lobe, usually in the first 10 hours of use you will know this.
Once the cam is broken in vary the RPM as mentioned above for the first 10 hours or so. I would not be afraid to take it to red line but I would not hold it there at all. Let it rev up and back off. Watch the temperature like a hawk, new engines make heat, heat will kill a new engine.
Drag racers build engines and go racing with no break in, Nascar builds engines and go racing with no break in. If it is built correctly they are good to go after the cam break in, just don't get them hot at all and make sure your tune up and timing is correct so you do not start detonating. Detonation can destroy an engine, new or old in seconds.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2014 at 11:38am
What Joe said. You need to get some good cylinder pressures and heat in the new motor to properly seat the rings on freshly honed cylinder walls.

Proper procedure is to cam break in and engine then with the break in oil run it a 2-5 times at WOT through the rpm band. Once you have done that the remainder of the break in period would be to run the engine at various rpms and various throttle/load applications. You don't want to run a new engine at the same rpm/throttle input for long periods of time IE cruising at the same rpm.
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