Winterizing A PCM GT40

Hello everyone, I recently joined this website although I have been a visitor for many years. This summer I became the owner of a 99 SN which I posted to the diaries page the other day. I have grown up around I/O's and winterized them since I was a teenager. I am looking for some pointers (pics or videos if possible) on how to properly winterize my GT40 and also assistance with the hot/cold water shower and driver seat heater which I assume has some type of heat exchanger as there are hoses which run from the heater back to the engine. I have read some of the forums on winterization but have not found any so far which specifically refer to the GT40 engine or how to properly winterize the shower or heater. I have also read a couple posts about clearing the speedo lines with something around 25 PSI of pressure. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, dano

There are probably 8,000,000 threads on this but since nobody bit after letting it marinate last night I'll just summarize.

GT40 winterization is the same as the carb'd version of the engine other than NOT fogging through the intake.

Block drains on either side of the block itself, one or the other may be used for heater or shower hoses. Drain both block drains probing for scale/buildup with a wire or pick.

Drain at the bottom of the cast metal "U" feeding the water circ pump in front

Drains on the back of both exhaust manifolds

Empty water strainer

Blow water out of heater core by literally blowing into one hose and noting the water/air coming out of the other. Then I usually funnel in some AF and blow that through. I have quick release fittings for my heater supply and return hoses (from garden hose section of Ace or HD/Lowes) that make this a snap.

I usually put 2-3 gallons of PG Antifreeze into a bucket and suck that into the motor with a 1" hose connected to the input side of the trans cooler. Some just leave it dry, YMMV, I do it just because.

I pull all 8 spark plugs, fog each cylinder with spray fogging oil w/the straw on the nozzle, then rotate the crank a few rotations with the front crank bolt, then replace all 8 plugs and wires.

Ok I have just gone from carbed 85' 2001 to EFI 97' gt40 . I used to just drain water and open a few water passages and a gallon of anti freeze. Do I need to do the bucket method or is it the same? I just want be sure since I got the boat on the cheap from bad winterizing ..

Drain all 5 plugs & refill with antifreeze (pour into T stat hose) is a good method. No special hoses involved.

jbear wrote: yup...August 30th and we have our 1st 'winterizing thread' now..what were we sayin' about those gators? Haha! Florida winterizing means one bag of ice instead of two, and possibly a sweatshirt. john

jbear wrote: yup...August 30th and we have our 1st 'winterizing thread'

I know really... depressing ain't it?

I imagine Pete's are already put away

I tried our Florida members way of winterizing last winter. Think I'll try it again this year but with a different boat to make sure it works with different engine manufacturers.

got it all painted today can start pulling all the tape off tomorrow and get my garage back. Then another day of drying and it can start to go back together.

I hate to admit it, but I'm pulling the boat out this weekend to run it for the first and only time this season (Yes, it's still winterized from last season). As soon as I'm done I'll be draining the water, and pulling antifreeze back through and fogging. Let me not forgot to mention that this will all be done in the driveway too, so the boat won't even see the lake this year..... What a shame...

Because it'll feel good to run it at least once. Also, I'll feel much better knowing that I have fresh antifreeze in it when it's -20 this winter ($40 is cheap insurance). I have ball valves at all drain locations so it doesn't take much time either.

No plugs on the tranny.

The only hose to drain for tranny is actually the raw water hose that is connected to the oil cooler.

*mtrbtr* wrote: This is the first year I am DIY. I am tired paying the marine mechanics to spill oil on my carpet, etc. So do you guys that put AF in, do you drain the water first and then suck the AF through? I sucked 2 gallons of AF through before draining anything. I noticed that mostly clear water came out of the block drains on the side of the engine and the AF was all in the exhaust manifolds. I am assuming that's because the T stat was not open?   Just trying to make sure I do this right. Draining was easy, just want to make sure that I have AF in all the right places since it freezes so hard up here in the winter and boat will be in cold storage.

Hollywood has a great MS Paint diagram of the water flow in the engine. Basically you want to drain the water, then either suck in or pour in the AF via the raw water feed to the t-stat housing. Regardless of T-stat open or closed there is ALWAYS an open passage that lets incoming fluid enter the engine. This is probably the most common area of confusion in boat winterization. If the block is empty, it fills up regardless of T-stat state.

I have a 92 Nautique. I will be WINTERIZING myself for the first time (my dealer is over booked). Can I just take the inlet hose and put it in a drum of AntiFreeze and start the engine until I see pure AF coming out? I was thinking this way I don't need to remove any drain plugs and so on.
I figured if I run enough AF this should be OK?

Thanks for insight,

Hudson

and DON'T let anyone tell you different......

Also make sure you use a wire to probe the drain holes so that they are not blocked and drain completely.