Starter Solenoid / Circuit Breaker

Battery cable condition? Cable connections? Battery type? NO DEEP CYCLE - Use a starting battery. What voltage are you getting to the starter? As long as the new starter relay had a equal or better amp rating, you are fine with the one you bought.

Remember, test first for the problem so you don't become just a "part changer".

Patrick,
The circuit breakers have been know to fail especially after they have tripped several times. They won't reset.

Did you check the type of battery you have?

I went through 3 starter relays on my 2001 before I found the problem. The boat would start, but the relays kept failing in a closed state (the starter would run until I disconnected the battery cable). It turned out there was a short in my starter, too much current was causing the relay contacts to weld together.

My local NAPA store sent me to a rebuild shop that was able to test my reverse rotation starter. They found the problem for me.

Just a regular walmart truck battery in there. I wasn't able to get exact replacement relays at the local marina to save my weekend (stuff like that never happens in the driveway in May for some reason), so I just stress tested the best relays they could sell me until I got home.

Take a look at this wiring schematic as well. Might want to double check that you haven't allowed a direct path to ground, when you wired up you're new solenoid. That would trip the breaker, but as Pete referenced, if it's tripped a few times it can weaken and need replacement.

The solenoids typically have two big posts, one for constant positive, and one that is switched positive going to the starter.

They also have two little posts, one is always switched ignition positive which comes from the key through the neutral safety switch.

Now, that second little post, that's where things can get confusing. The original PCM setup uses a solenoid with the second little post that is an "I" post, which is switched 12v ignition, but they leave it unused because it's not necessary for their ignition. In this case, the body of the solenoid grounds to the block, and that's how the positive from the key flows through to complete that circuit.

Plot thickens, some solenoids don't ground to the block they use the 2nd post as a ground, so someone replaces the solenoid at some point with a non OEM, so they have run a ground wire to that second post to make it work.

Jump back to present, you go to replace that solenoid and you go back to the correct OEM style, with the second little post being "I" again, but you reconnect that ground wire that was there to make the incorrect solenoid work.

Accept now, you've got full 12v positive taking the short cut to ground, from the I post through the rigged up ground wire, every time the key is turned to the start position. This will trip the breaker.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it