Living in the country

Hollywood wrote: That didn't sound like your point and if it was there was no reason to call what 74wind said "ridiculous". Say you're sorry.

what's even more ridiculous is why glue smells so good

I'm ready to move up to northern Wisconsin and looking forward to it. I feel I'm past the point of having to worry about my kids on drugs. I do have a septic/field and well but that's no big deal to me. Shopping for me isn't that bad and about 15 miles to the "big" town. (McDonald's too LOL) Piece and quiet yes as well as living on two lakes. Lower taxes for sure. Internet connectable. 4WD for sure but I've always driven one.

Move and enjoy!

Riley wrote: Does OK have a real estate law where the real estate agent has to state whether they represent the buyer or seller, or do all agents have to represent the seller? If they have to state who they represent, you should find a good buyer broker. Mobile and modular are not the same thing and you should know the difference before you buy. If you can't find a good agent that will represent you, find a good real estate appraiser.

We have buyer and seller brokers.

Riley wrote: Same as here then. Get yourself a good buyer broker. I've been a real estate appraiser for almost 30 years and I wouldn't buy property without one. As far as modular housing goes, in Maine you usually get more house for the money than a site built house, because they can build them cheaper and often their finishes are of lower quality. If you're looking for a basic house and are more interested in the amount of living area and room count rather than custom features or quality, then they aren't a bad way to go. Best thing to do is to compare them to site built homes and see what you think. If you have a broker that knows a lot about new construction and modular housing, he/she will be very helpful.

Bruce,
As an appraiser, how does the modular compare in terms of depreciation/appreciation vs. mobile and conventional stick built? Will the modular home appreciate like a stick built house? Do lenders value them the same when it comes time to resell? Most people here in SC heap the old mobile stereotype onto the modular home and although I don't speak from experience, it seems that the two are pretty different.

There are lot of national home builders in my area (Crown, DR Horton, Schumaker) that build a stick built home that is garbage. If the circumstances were right (lake lot, country lot) I think I'd give the modular serious consideration.

My father in-law spent several years as a quality manager for several different modular home companies and basically you get what you pay for just like anything else. You can get modular homes with all the upgrades and they are built in a controlled environment at a faster pace. Most of his issues came when the local guy setting the home did not understand that the foundation had to be square. When you build a home somewhere else, it better fit when it arrives. Stick built homes can be made on top of not so 100% square foundations.

I know because I live in a 1979 stick built home that is not square at all and I just found out as we redid the floors. When you order a modular home they have several packages you can choose from. I also believe some of the building materials are of a larger size ( 2 by 4's) since it has to be transported once. I still wonder when you do go to resell if the stigma is still there that it came in on wheels.

Steve,

I have an idea. Just buy a G25 and park it in the country and live in it. Better wait until spring to try this plan. Winters are not as fun.

Donald

Here are a couple pictures of properties we looked at Sunday. Both of these are 5 acres total, in a little different areas out where we are looking. It seems like we can probably find a fairly wooded lot, in that size, for the price we want to pay.

I would do electric with propane, since your building you could easily put the appropriate electrical outlets where your major appliances are incase you want to change them in the future. I would also look at having a generator installed to handle times when the power goes out for an extended period.   

No idea about septic systems, I just had to be far enough out to where being close to the lake was affordable.

While those trees are nice, that looks like a great place for a Copperhead, be sure the wife is OK with the occasional snake or 2 around the house.   

I can shoot bears from my front porch. No deer though, that would save me a lot of money.

I would pipe for propane in the future but just plan on using electric for all except heat if it gets cold enough where you're at. Propane is not bad but not user friendly IMHO, I advise against LP. Propane tends to leave a residue overtime in the kitchen. If you can get natural gas, go that route for all appliances.   Scratch the generator. Marginally convenient at best and is a major expense you will not get a return on. A 3600 watt geni will do everything you need.

peter1234 wrote: kytom2 wrote: You guys don't live in the country! Heck my nearest neighbor is a mile away. I can shoot a deer from my front porch and never have to worry about anyone complaining. = HEAVEN. the one thing i would always look at is on a lot you are interested in i would lean towards something that borders land that is either not buildable or is national forest if possible. make your 5 acres 500 +

The example property I showed backs up to around 200 acres that borders a small river...seems that would be pretty nice.

Pete,
It's been a few years so my pricing could be off. I refuse to get involved with "whole" house generators but $10-12k bill is what it should cost all said and done. Purchase lets say a 12kw (over kill but homeowners think they need 20kw) generator from Generac which is the most common. Generac basically gives you a free 100 amp transfer switch that comes with 6-20 amp circuits. Useless. That means find 6 breakers in your house that you want powered, the rest nolo juice. So now our whole house generator really means just the kitchen. So we throw the free Generac switch away and buy a 200 amp standard auto K switch from Cutler hammer so we can transfer the entire generator to the entire panel and not just the 6 circuits as before. This is a $2k hidden cost. Now install it all and meet minimum code clearances with exposure, window location etc. pay someone to install. Often a concrete slab is needed. Generators take fuel. So now unless you have natural gas (again, another reason I'm a fan of it over Lp) you have to either lease an lp tank or buy one. Those who lease usually buy it when it's time to renew. Install/bury tank to meet local codes for exposure and clearances. And fill the tank. Now when you are in an emergency you have to supply that 36hp or so engine with fuel, even though 90% of the time you're only using 2000 watts.

Or permantly mount a 12x12 box on side of house with hinged cover. Install extension cord there back feeding entire panel. Wheel a 3600-5500 watt generator (that we all prob already have) out when you need it, plug it in and use only the electric you NEED. A 9 hp engine will burn less gas. As for not having power when I'm not home..... I'm not home. Fridge will last 6 hours easy.

Take the 11,500$ you saved and buy a Correct Craft.

Orlando76 wrote: Pete, It's been a few years so my pricing could be off.

I installed a whole house 7.2 KW natural gas Kolher with a Cutler 100 amp transfer for just over 4K.

I would not buy a small Generac since they buy surplus Chinese engines and label them a "Generac". The 1800 low RPM "silent" liquid cooled are OK since they are 4 cylinder common engines typically USA made.

Again, with a portable, you still need to be home to hook it up!

Anyone have experience doing concrete floors versus tile, carpet or wood?

SWANY wrote: Okie Boarder wrote: Anyone have experience doing concrete floors versus tile, carpet or wood? Can you be more specific with that question? Are you evaluating doing a foundation compared to slab?

Andy,
Yes, as Joel asks, specifics would be great. With the exception of a garage, I'm not in favor of a slab. However, it also depends on soil type, soil moisture retention and frost depth as these factors affect movement from frost. With a slab, you also need to consider under slab and slab perimeter insulation especially in a cold areas. The perimeter is commonly overlooked. I've seen plenty of slabs where the snow is melted around it from heat loss.

Finish flooring on concrete isn't a problem as long as you follow the directions from the flooring manufacturer.

I've been a carpenter for 13 years, I always find it interesting how different regions build homes, When you say most are on slabs. I framed with a guy for several years that worked in Alaska for 20 plus years, completely different beast up there