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351w reverserotation gaskets

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cueball Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 351w reverserotation gaskets
    Posted: March-15-2015 at 1:23am
Hi Everyone,

I am ready to order a gaskets for my 1986 SN 351w reverse rotation.

Block year is a 1974
Heads are a 1975

I know I need the front timming #17795
and the rear main seal #17748

So every kit I find is for standard rotation, #17261, will this work?
The only kits I find for reverse rotation is a rebuild kit, comes with bearings etc. which I dont need.

Any sugestions?

Thanks,
Shawn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 8:56am
Other than the seals,gaskets don't know which way the engine turns. Just use a quality set
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 9:27am
Originally posted by cueball cueball wrote:


front timming #17795
rear main seal #17748
standard rotation, #17261,
Thanks,
Shawn

How about links? What manufacturer are these?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 9:52am
Felpro Pete. He might have problems finding the rear main though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 9:54am
Gary,
I went to Felpro without finding them. I must have had one of the jbear computer moments!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 10:03am
83+ should be a 1-piece directional seal, the 351 is sti available AFAIK, only the 302 had to be made custom (by Reid).

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MAL9-61626
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 10:18am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

83+ should be a 1-piece directional seal, the 351 is sti available AFAIK, only the 302 had to be made custom (by Reid).

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MAL9-61626

Link


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 2:19pm
Looks as if he's using a '74 block,all the more reason to look for a roller block
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 3:45pm
Roller block doesn't add any value unless you plan to go roller!

You're in trouble with a 2-piece block/crank if it's all LH... The RMS isn't an issue as it's bi-directional... The crank has the wick lines machined in and a LH crank can't be spun backwards. You'll need a 2-piece RH crank to use your 74 block. Or, get yourself a 1-piece block and crank to build from.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 11:13pm
The other day I was in the shop where I used to work, saw a couple of RH cranks there. They had light rust, but looked OK otherwise. Do you have the RH cam? They are getting very hard to find.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cueball Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 11:21pm
Thanks everyone for the replies,

Yes the numbers are Fel-pro, their website won't recognize the part number, but if you go thur the process to find gaskets for your engine, they come up.

Yea, I'm having a hard time finding the rear main seal.

I will try the link, Thanks Pete.
Shawn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cueball Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 11:27pm
The engine is original, to the best of my knowledge.

The crank is a RH and has the wicks on it, I checked the cast numbers.

I have a new cam for it and it is correct, I even checked it by setting it on top of the block and spun it in the direction it is supose to go and the lobes were correct.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 11:41pm
Go to NAPA and buy a $14 rear main seal. It will have the same Ford number stamped in it that the "marine" seal will have. Been there, done that 1998.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2015 at 11:45pm
A '86 boat with an original '74 block? That doesn't sound right.

Either way, if you have a 2-piece block and a RH crank with the wick lines, you should be good. Like TimD said, the seal is bidirectional.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cueball Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2015 at 1:22am
Ok, after a little more research it seems my block is a 75-77. Cast #D4AE-AA
I guess the AA cast #'s makes a difference.

http://www.raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine2.html

So how do I tell visually if I need a 2 piece or 1 piece?

Yes, TRBenj, I agree, it doesn't sound right with the year gap with the hull year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cueball Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2015 at 2:29am
Nevermind...I figured it out, two piece it is.

Once again, Thanks for all the replies!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cueball Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2015 at 9:51am
Ordered the gaskets, and some other things...should be here by the end of the week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2015 at 12:20pm
The change from 2-piece to 1-piece rear main seals on 351W occurred during the PCM 1984 model year. "Somewhere" I have the service bulleting that gave the PCM serial number when the change was put into effect, but "somewhere" remains a mystery.

When 2-piece RH seals became unreasonably expensive, we polished the knurling ("hash marks") off the cranks and used standard seals with no resulting oil leak problems.
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