Advice for reviving a '87 SN 2001 after 10yrs |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21141 |
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87 will not likely have the greasable spindles (mine doesnt). Id jack each side up and make sure the hub is sufficiently tight, and make sure its not too loud (no grinding) when spun. Take a look at the grease and if reasonable, drag it home. If they look/feel/sound bad, youre going to wish you had spare parts to rebuild them on the spot.
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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We made it back with everything in one piece. In fact, aside from losing a trailer hub cap somewhere on I-69, the trip up north and back was absolutely uneventful.
More good news - the trailer in question was a '90 Shorelander with a lube-thru axle and bearingbuddies. I pulled out my grease gun and hit each side equally with a liberal amount of grease. We hooked everything up, did a quick lights check then went for a 5-mile drive at 30-40 mph to warm up the axle. After we returned, we hit each side again with the grease and viola! The majority of old gummy stuff was pushed out and replaced. On this Easter Sunday, I just wanted give to a big "thank you" to everyone who provided input. With the all knowledge sharing, I was able to ensure that I was adequately prepared to meet the majority of potential showstoppers. Here's a few quick pic's of what I'll be working with over the next few weeks. ![]() Time for a short test drive! ![]() These look awful without the hub caps ![]() ![]() The vinyl is a lot more brittle then it looks ![]() I found all the plugs, keys, and even the oil quick drain hose in a plastic bag under the observers seat ![]() The swim platform is going to require some work... ![]() All in all, the engine bay was pretty clean ![]() Aside from wet sanding, buffing and polishing the hull, the port-side graphics are going to eventually need some real work. If I don't keep to the original gray scheme, I'm thinking dark blue... ![]() |
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SNobsessed ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Looks great! Glad you had a good trip home. I remember pulling mine home - surge brake coupler was clunking at every little bump the whole hour.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Anyone have any good tips for putting the two halves of the RWP back together after changing the impeller? I've pulled the pump and removed\replaced the old impeller, o-ring and gasket, but I'm having a heck of a time getting enough thread to the screws in order to put pump back together. They're not stripped and initially I thought I might have purchased the wrong kit from Nautiqueparts.com, but everything I can find confirms the correct part number (09959K). Could it be that the new impeller just has that much more thickness to it?
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'87 SN 2001
'68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
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Hollywood ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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Kind of confused. I've never had a problem. Put it together the way you had it and post a picture.
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spiralhelix ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
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have your screws been modified/shortened? mine just barely end up sticking out past the backside of the housing when fully seated. Dawn dish soap on the fins to get it to slide in easier. I then add the "o" ring, plate, gasket, put the shaft into the impeller and spin it until the key meets the slot and it drops in. line up the screws and tighten her down, each screw a bit at a time. Just make sure you orient the impeller in the correct direction.
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Hollywood ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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No matter how long the screws are you should be able to close up the housing by hand. A fresh impeller will "right" itself when you start the engine.
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tjca77 ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: April-29-2014 Location: Dunwoody Status: Offline Points: 54 |
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Did this last weekend, a mark on the top of the pump helps make sure you are not installing it backwards. There are some good pictures on the aquaskier.com website of this install. I was surprised at how easy this part was to install.
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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I agree. Have you measured the old to new thickness thru the bore? |
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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I took Kevin's advice and pulled the RWP back apart to get some photos. After zooming in, I noticed that one of the threaded screw holes was pretty smooth and another on it's way. Called my cousin to see if he was aware of this and sure enough, this situation wasn't any news to him
![]() ![]() "Good screw hole" ![]() Screw hole in the process of ticking me off ![]() The screw hole that makes me want to throw the RWP across my %$#@! garage ![]() In any event, the screws aren't the problem now, it's the RWP back housing. Anyone have any previous experience with using a tap and die set on the housing to re-thread the screw holes? Any idea if going "just a tad" larger is a problem? If not, what's a good size? I'm pretty sure that the screw holes are brass, so I'm a little nervous about just going to town here... |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21141 |
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Go with longer bolts and nuts on the back side if necessary.
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Yes, I agree most definitely! But if you look at pic #3, a longer bolt ain't gonna fix that... |
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skutsch ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-19-2008 Location: Racine, WI Status: Offline Points: 2874 |
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I am pretty sure someone is going to have a hey day with this post, I edited up to make it all the easier for you guys... WRT the actual problem at hand, I would do what Tim suggested with a bolt and nut or, re-tap all the next size up, that way you shouldn't have to worry about which bolt fits. Brass is soft, so tapping should not be an issue, just be very careful threading and tightening. |
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Thanks, Steve. The advise is much appreciated - glad to know that tapping brass shouldn't be problematic. I'm right there with you regarding using care when threading and tightening into soft metals. ![]() |
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'87 SN 2001
'68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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I feel the original bolts are 1/4-20. You can tap to 5/16-18 but, there's no reason Tim's method of longer bolts and nut's on the back side won't work ether. Actually, I would prefer to see the longer bolts since there's not much material in the ears of the pump body to go larger.
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Pete, you're right on the money. The one that looks like it's an adjusting screw is 1" long and the other two appeared to be 3\4" - all were 1/4-20. I checked a number of taps and settled on 1\4-28 - which just happened to coincide with the three 1" fasteners I had laying around. The RWP is now solidly back together and re-installed with a brand new Sherwood impeller and gasket. I didn't go with the nut on the back idea as there really wasn't sufficient room to get a turn on the nut to ensure it was tightly seated to the housing. In any event, there's plenty of "meat" in the new threads and the longer bolts make disasembly\reassembly alot easier. Thanks to all who added some input- I'd rather ask once then have to call for a tow... ![]() |
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'87 SN 2001
'68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Rob, I hope you gained thread engagement with the longer 1/4" bolts since you didn't tap for a 5/16". Yes, you are correct that adding nuts on the backside does require spot facing to eliminate the casting radius so a nut will fit. |
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Busy day today, just had to show off some wood
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'87 SN 2001
'68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Rob,
Good luck on the start up. The platform looks great but I'd like to ask what you used on it. It looks pretty glossy for a oil. Hopefully you didn't use a hard finish. |
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Thanks Pete. I used 3-4 coats of Starbrite Teak oil for the base then 3 coats of TotalBoat Marine Wood Finish in gloss to make it "pop". It looks kinda slick, but you actually get pretty good traction on it. I know, I had to test it to make sure I wasn't inviting an accident ![]() |
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'87 SN 2001
'68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
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Hollywood ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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That's gonna be slick in the water. Oil, and oil only.
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phatsat67 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
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Agree, Teak is meant for oil and that's the way it is.
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Nope, it's not slick at all. There's two finish formulations available from this company, one that is strictly "above waterline" - which is more like a lacquer and the other that's made for swim platforms and the like. I would have to say that there's probably more friction being generated now than if the Teak was simply oiled. Zach, I'm sure I'll see you on the water sometime this summer. I'll let you be the judge ![]() |
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'87 SN 2001
'68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
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Hollywood ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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I'm struggling to come up with any finish that makes it pop that wouldn't be slippery. Anyway, good luck. Zach will have to let know how it goes.
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Smithfamily ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: December-26-2007 Location: Orlando, Fl Status: Offline Points: 1602 |
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Rob, Looking Great!!
How brittle is the vinyl, and did you try treating it with anything? It sure looks nice. |
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Js
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Rob, I asked about the coating worried about it sticking and not how slippery it was. I have never seen anything considered a hard coating stick to Teak. Time will tell. |
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Yep Pete -That's a fact! FYI - I did get a little nervous about it being slippery over the weekend so I pulled it off and watered it down with about an ounce of Dawn mixed in just to check it out. It passed my barefoot "Electric boogie" test no problem ![]() |
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'87 SN 2001
'68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
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xarmypilot ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: March-25-2015 Location: Westfield, IN Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Quick update -
It was a very good day today. Took half a day off of work and, with a little help from the fuel, fire and air gods, I was able to get in the 1st start and run up since 1996! I think it only took 2-3 turns of the key before she roared back to life. Nice thing about Ford's 351, they do like to run! Initially she was a bit smokey for the first 5 minutes, probably due to the half ounce or so of Marvel I sprayed down the plug wells after I changed them. Transmission felt and sounded smooth and engine temps stayed around 150-160 after 30 minutes at idle. Before starting I was a bit concerned about having to adjust the carb, but the engine idled steady at about 900 RPM, so I think I'm in the clear - just have to wait until I put it under load. As a side note, as I was reinserting the water plugs, I noticed a red hose attached to the engine listing eye on one end and at the oil pan at the other. Anyone have an idea what that is for or if it need to be attached? I can seem the find it in the PCM manual so I've attached a pic ![]() I'm thinking it's a convenient oil drain hose, but I'd rather not "guess"... There's also an additional plug I can't account for. I believe it to be a spare or maybe a extra drain plug of some type. It's awfully clean to have been used regularly and I can account for the other 5 plugs that I had re-installed. Thoughts? Red host attached to lifting eye ![]() Opposite end, attached to oil pan ![]() Extra plug? ![]() |
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'87 SN 2001
'68 Chris~Craft Grand Prix (Past family boat) '72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat) "Speed is life, altitude is life insurance" |
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Good deal now if it would only warm up! Your right on the hose,remove the drain in the bottom of the boat shove the hose thru,remove the cap and drain into your favorite container. Word of caution,don't put it in gear without having water run on the strut bearing,they are rubber and water lubricated.
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skutsch ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-19-2008 Location: Racine, WI Status: Offline Points: 2874 |
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Right on with the oil drain hose, I remember going through my engine on the 98 sport for the first time and finding the same hose. Had no idea what it was, the Ford Interceptor 312 on my Dad's Ski Nautique had no such convenience item.
As for that plug, it sure looks like a manifold plug (to drain manifolds - winterization - at the aft end of each manifold), of course it depends on what size it is. If it is small it could also be the plug that goes in the bottom of the J-pipe below the water pump, but those are typically brass and a hex head. |
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