Boats For Sale:
Shaft and Coupler |
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bblakley 
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Joined: July-05-2009 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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 Topic: Shaft and CouplerPosted: June-22-2015 at 11:04pm |
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Need to buy a Drive shaft and coupler for a 76 Ski Tique.
Any advice where to get one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Do I have to repack the shaft? Thanx all. |
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bblakley
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Orlando76
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Joined: May-21-2013 Location: Mount Dora, FL Status: Offline Points: 3108 |
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Posted: June-22-2015 at 11:06pm |
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Since you're in Orlando, PM Art Cozier. He may be able to help you. Shafts aren't cheap and aren't easy, I'm plagued with one now.
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Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: June-22-2015 at 11:32pm |
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Bryan,
Hopefully Art will have one in his collection. I replaced mine in my 77 a couple years ago but I used an ARE double taper system. They run about the same cost as a single taper but the big advantage it eliminates having to heat shrink the the coupling to the shaft. If you come across a used set, make sure you check it's straightness (max .003" TIR) and the coupling to shaft fit is .000" to a -.0001" interference fit. BTW, the shaft length is 40" Yes, you will need to repack the shaft packing gland. Why do you need the shaft and coupling?????? |
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bblakley
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Joined: July-05-2009 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Posted: June-28-2015 at 8:35pm |
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I took the boat in to Natuique of Orlando to get the prop off and they noticed that shaft moved like a good half an inch back and forth. They looked at the coupling and noticed the shaft moves in the coupling which is not good. Worse was that there was only one bolt (supposed to be four) holding the coupler on. Tuned out two of the four holes had Allen screws in them which I cannot get out now. Tried heating the coupling up, tried an impact driver. Nothing. Tried drilling them out but Just chewed my bit up. They also showed me where whoever had it before me had some screwy work on the prop side of the shaft. Prob just best to replace.
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bblakley
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bblakley
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Joined: July-05-2009 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Posted: June-28-2015 at 8:36pm |
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Wasn't there a Sponsor that sold parts that you used to have? Seems like I had a place last year to get prats from that someone on here was upset I didn't try the sponsors first.
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bblakley
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: June-28-2015 at 9:28pm |
Bryan, You may be thinking about Billey and Karen? |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: June-28-2015 at 9:48pm |
Bryan, Yup, it sure sounds like you need an ARE shaft. With a coupling ro shaft that sloppy, it's best to just cut it off since both are scrap. You had better do an alignment since bad is what chews up the shaft and coupling from fretting. It's at least good that you still had some set screws. They do NOT hold the shaft into the coupling, the interference fit does. They are there for some added safety. What was the "screwy" work on the shaft? |
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184 |
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Posted: June-28-2015 at 9:51pm |
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N3.
I'd give SkiDIM serious consideration as well, they're your choice for the ARE. I wouldn't put much (any) effort into removing the shaft and coupler nicely... A worn shaft/coupler fit means it's junk. Break out the sawzall. |
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bblakley wrote: