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AlfaDon View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-13-2015 at 5:01am
Hi
So in my first try at shaft packing, I'm not liking the way it turned out. I found some instructions online, and followed them pretty well. I used Ultra-x packing wrapped it around the shaft to get the length right, beveled the ends so they would overlay each other.
Then when I put them in the nuts they were too short. I saw it coming, but didn't stop in time. So now there's a good 3/32 between the ends. I think that beveling them was a waste of time, because it just gave them a better chance at fraying.
So, what do you think? Start over with new material, or will it crush into place? I've got 4 wraps in both the rudder and shaft logs.

Thanks
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2015 at 7:31am
Don,
I'm not familiar with the brand of packing you used. Most including myself have gone with the "drip less" Gortex. I also don't understand how the wraps came up short. You did use the shaft as a length guide and that is correct. The packing gets compressed around the shaft when the gland covers it so I'm wondering how you determined the lengths are short. Start over and use a sharp razer blade.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2015 at 7:38am
The difference happened when I measured it by wrapping the shaft, and then it came up short when I placed it into the gland.
It just occurred to me that the packing should probably be 1/4" instead of 3/16"

I read a lot of post about how to measure and determine the correct size packing, and all of the answers were kind of ambivalent. I guess I guessed wrong
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2015 at 8:02am
Originally posted by AlfaDon AlfaDon wrote:

The difference happened when I measured it by wrapping the shaft, and then it came up short when I placed it into the gland.
It just occurred to me that the packing should probably be 1/4" instead of 3/16"

I read a lot of post about how to measure and determine the correct size packing, and all of the answers were kind of ambivalent. I guess I guessed wrong

Yes, different sizes of packing have been used through the years. It will make a difference! I always suggest using a drill bit to determine the diameter since measuring isn't easy. You see which bit will fit between the gland and the shaft.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2015 at 10:21pm
Hi All,
I'm still working on installing the strut and shaft. I got delayed because my new 1A rudder had a little bend to it from the previous owner. I want to make sure I'm ready to bed all of my through hulls at the same time.

I took the flexible coupling apart between the gland and the log to make sure I was centered in the log. I'm not sure exactly how to describe it, but it's the part forward of the log, It's it's not the gland nut that holds the packing, it's the part that has the male threads that the gland nut and lock nut screw onto. Maybe it's considered to be a part of the log.

The shaft has been wearing on that piece so it's now out of round. It's measures .015 out of round and it appears to be worn on one side only. The hole is 1.025", and at the worn place it's 1.040" Do I need to replace it? If not where do I put the area that's worn? On top? Unfortunately I don't remember where the worn spot was when I took it apart.

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Thanks,
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2015 at 10:48pm
Don,
Can you post a picture? Forward of the log is a short section of hose. Attached to the hose and what I believe you are talking about is the gland. The gland is where the packing goes and is compressed by the gland nut.. The gland itself does come in contact with the prop shaft. If the shaft isn't centered in the log, the rubber hose will put enough pressure on the gland to wear it's bore egg shaped. Since the out of round is only .015, I wouldn't worry and still use the gland. Do check your alignment and remember alignment starts at the strut.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 12:03am
I'm not sure how to post a picture. Don't I have to go to a hosting service?

I put some wood shims in the log on both ends to hold it centered, and it's considerable different than it was. With the centering shims in place, I have to drop the strut about 3/8", well out of the recess of my 96 176.

It almost seems like the log isn't placed correctly, but it seems like the angle of the log mounting surface dictates the angle of the prop shaft.

I'm also questioning if someone put the wrong strut in at some point.

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Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 12:50am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 6:50am
t
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 6:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 6:56am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 7:48am
Don,
It's common to place flat washers between the struct base and the hull but not more than a couple. The area between the washers will get support from the 5200/4200. See what happens with shimming the strut. Shoot for the center of the top/forward of the log. Keep in mind that the cutlass bearing does allow some flex of the shaft so the weight of the shaft needs to be supported. Make a V block to support the shaft inside the boat. This way you will be able to rotate the shaft to determine it's "happy" and rotates freely in the cutlass. Start at the strut.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 9:57am
The shaft doesn't need to be exactly centered in the log   Anywhere in the middle 1/3 of the range would be OK in my book.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 1:51pm
I understand that the shaft wouldn't need to be centered in the section of log where there's so much clearance, but it would seem like the shaft would need to be centered in the gland nut. Otherwise the shaft is going to be continually pushing on one side of the gland nut. It's the reason my gland nut is egg shaped, and it's only going to get worse. Plus it's going to add additional heat at the packing material.

I think I'm going to try and "Shoot for the center of the top/forward of the log" , but I'm also going to try and adjust the gland nut in the flexible hose so the face of the gland nut stays perpendicular and centered to the shaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2015 at 7:23pm
Don,
Your plan sounds good. Chris is correct that it doesn't have to be perfect so:
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Don,
Shoot for the center of the top/forward of the log. .


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2015 at 6:27pm
This continues to be a challenge lining everything up.
I figured I wanted to make sure the prop and shaft were centered in the hull. So I found the center based on the corners of the hull, and the shaft is about 1/4" off center. Should I leave it alone or enlarge the bolt holes so I can center the shaft?
It really is a case where one change affects everything, and it's really like the shaft has to move with the engine, or vis-versa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2015 at 6:57pm
center the shaft in the log (this doesn't move)

center the shaft in the strut (this moves)

align engine (this moves) to shaft
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2015 at 7:03pm
I appreciate those words of wisdom. In order to center the shaft in the log, it means lifting the engine. And the engines already at the top of the foreword mounts.
I'll continue my quest for compromises
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2015 at 7:18pm
You are way ahead of yourself considering engine placement when installing the strut. That comes later.

Do you have anyone else knowledgable located near you that can help? If not, before proceeding, I suggest a healthy dose of reading/research in order to grasp the fundamental concepts of powertrain alignment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2015 at 7:47pm
I understand that it's not simple, but I'm trying to find a starting point.
My question today and I believe one of the starting points is, How important is it that the strut be exactly centered in the hull? It appears by a resin patch on the inside that there's been repair work done around the area where the strut mounts. And I'm guessing that they didn't get it right. Im using the corners of the hull as reference points, and the strut isn't centered. Pretty much all of the factory mounted items on the transom that I could use for reference aren't placed correctly. The lifting rings, step platform mounts aren't centered or symmetrical.
Is having the shaft not centered in the hull going to effect how the boat tracks through the water?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2015 at 8:04pm
You center the the shaft in the log by adjusting the strut. Do not worry if it matches anything else. At this time only worry about that. Once it's right then match the engine to that. Think of it this way- when the factory mounts the strut and shafting the engine is not even in the boat yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2015 at 8:10pm
Where have you read that the strut needs to be centered on the hull? Not on this website I bet. These hulls are built by hand.

The strut and log need to be aligned, that's it. Assuming the log is where the factory placed it (or within reason), just go with it. You don't need to re-engineer the boat. The concept of alignment is not difficult, but it is a little tricky to explain. If you don't quite grasp it, keep reading until it clicks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2015 at 8:51pm
Originally posted by AlfaDon AlfaDon wrote:

I'm trying to find a starting point.

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

You center the the shaft in the log by adjusting the strut.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

remember alignment starts at the strut.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Don,
Start at the strut.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2015 at 12:26am
If the strut is off hull center by 1/4 inch, that is OK.

I would put some washers under the front of the strut & have it be a little low in the log.

Then you will have some vertical engine adjustment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2015 at 4:10am
Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. I genuinely appreciate it.

I do understand about the strut being the fixed point in the system, and that needing to be the reference point.
Things are not lining up easily, and I suspect part of the reason is that the area in the hull where the strut mounts has been previously damaged and repaired, probably incorrectly. So while everybody is pointing to the strut as the gold standard, I'm questioning its location.

Chris, thanks for answering my question directly. It means that I can leave the strut where it is and move forward from there (literally). So while the strut is not in the perfect location, it is located at a point where I can work with it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2015 at 7:56am
Originally posted by AlfaDon AlfaDon wrote:



Chris, thanks for answering my question directly. It means that I can leave the strut where it is and move forward from there (literally). So while the strut is not in the perfect location, it is located at a point where I can work with it.


Don.
Yes, do try shimming.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Don,
It's common to place flat washers between the struct base and the hull but not more than a couple. The area between the washers will get support from the 5200/4200. See what happens with shimming the strut. Start at the strut.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2015 at 9:55am
Originally posted by AlfaDon AlfaDon wrote:


I do understand about the strut being the fixed point in the system, and that needing to be the reference point.   

Still not quite there.

The strut is the first thing you can adjust when doing a full alignment (including strut install). It only becomes a fixed reference point (for the remainder of the powertrain alignment) once it is installed. When installing the strut, the LOG is your fixed reference point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2015 at 2:45pm
Ok. I've got it all lined up, and very satisfied with the results. I removed all of the old silicone and sanded down to fresh gel coat. I've got the 4200 warming in the sun. A final wash of acetone, and I'm ready to bed everything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2015 at 7:33pm
Originally posted by AlfaDon AlfaDon wrote:

Ok. I've got it all lined up, .

Don,
Did you end up having to shim the strut?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2015 at 8:16pm
Sounds to me like the Alfa had it all lined up, then took the strut off to re-seal.
If that's the case, then the Don is going to have to start all over again because, very rarely do they (the strut) go back precisely in the same spot without some fine tuning.
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