AmSkier Construction

Thanks for the info.

So far, mine seems ok with a couple pumps of grease once or twice a season.
What's interesting, is with mine, if it needs grease, they will be a little play in the rudder. Giving it the grease takes up almost all of the play. It's seems as if the grease has mechanical function as well as just lubricating it, kind of like with an old GM idler arm.

lewy2001 wrote: ... Most aussie ski boats use the same type of rudder port with seals. Infact they use the same seal type setup on the log. After having both types I like the simplicity of the packing gland and nut.

Would this setup be the same for all factory Zerk equipped rudder ports?

8122pbrainard wrote: It's great you were able to save the prop shaft. I've had to cut the nut off when someone used s SS nut on the SS shaft. I too now have a 3/4"-10 die!!!

JoeinNY wrote: Looking good Eddie - stainless lock nuts are sent straight from the depths of hell to cause us to question our faith in a benevolent god.

LOL, True dat guys!!!! I still have no clue why I got a SS nut. Then to add insult to injury why the hell I didn't use some anti-seize on it.

Here is the end result though. A new brass nut nice and snug. If you look close you can see some missing thread between the Nyloc and the cotter pin.

storm34 wrote: Great work! Are those engine cover alignment studs or stops to keep the cover from getting pushed into the pulley?

Look closer Chris. Those are the front engine mount adjustment studs. The pic definitely makes it look like they're on each corner for the engine cover though.

Eddie nice work.........almost OCD

Most aussie ski boats use the same type of rudder port with seals. Infact they use the same seal type setup on the log.

After having both types I like the simplicity of the packing gland and nut.

Great work!

Are those engine cover alignment studs or stops to keep the cover from getting pushed into the pulley?

That's some awesome work Eddie!

Seeing as things are pretty slow on here right now, I thought that I would give a little update.
I've got everything pretty much back together. I put the core plugs back in the holes of the floor and used the epoxy putty to get them sealed up. I hit it with a quick sander to level things off and then put a layer of glass over it.




I purposely wanted to try and see how well I can get the carpet patched together vs. replacing it. I really didn't want to replace it.
These boats have the observer seat molded into the deck and then screwed to the floor. When the average Joe (not our Joe mind you) needs to replace the floor and carpet the lazy way out would be to remove the upholstery and cut the seat back off inline with the bottom of the dash. After the repair then a piano hinge is used to screw it back together. It's an OK alternative and pretty much hidden if done right but is it really right? I think not. The right way to do it is remove the entire deck keeping the observer seat intact, replace the floor/carpet as needed and then put the deck back on which is exactly the way I did it the first time so many years ago. Not hard but certainly time consuming. I wasn't going there this time around. Not when the carpet was in good shape yet so I can put up with a couple of slits in it until it comes time that it truly needs it. At least I would see how the bad it would ultimately turn out.




I had to tidy up a few other things. The bilge pump float bracket has been broken for a long time. I think the float was a mercury switch so I just replaced it. I dressed up all the wiring too.




I wanted to replace the shaft log hose which required that the plastic stuffing box be removed and repacked. When I removed it I found it was deformed (like an hour glass). The housing has a SS crush washer in it that prevents the housing from collapsing from the hose clamp. Unfortunately, the clamp was never installed over the crush washer so the reason for the deforming. I replaced that too with some fresh GFO packing.

Look real close at the right rear tranny mount. Then compare it to the left side mount. You'll see that the left mount is thicker than the right. The factory added 3/8” aluminum flat stock on top of each mount. The left one has two spacers and the right side has only one. I have no idea how or why that happened. When I put the engine back in the left trunnion was aligned in the middle of the adjustment track and the right side had the trunnion pretty much pegged against the rubber bushing. It aligned perfectly fine that way but I wanted to make it right. So I called Rob Bemman again and he hooked me up with a perfectly cut piece of 3/8” flat stock aluminum to make both sides even. No pics of the end result but you get the idea.





The MSD marine dizzy cap has been redesigned and is no longer available in the old socket configuration. You can only get it with HEI type male terminals so I had to replace the spark plug terminals on the dizzy end. I made the spark plug wires when I installed the ignition years ago so replacing the terminals was pretty easy. Especially with the engine on an engine stand.




I'm still not quite done at this point. I got the engine back in and aligned. All the wiring, hoses and cables were reattached. I also removed, cleaned and lubricated the Morse control. Then I was to the point that all I had to do was get the prop and exhaust put back on and I was pretty much done. I got a new SS prop nut to put on. My old brass Nyloc prop nut was still the original one since I've owned the boat and definitely worn so I wanted to replace it. Not sure why I didn't get another brass one.
The end couple of threads on my prop shaft were scarfed up a little bit. I probably scraped it on the floor at some point but that's irrelevant. Being SS being spun on SS, I was thinking I should probably put a little anti-seize on the threads but nooooooooooooooooo, not this dumb ass looking to finish things up and cutting corners. I cleaned the threads up a little bit with a jewelers file and spun on the new nut. I got a few turns and the nut galled and seized up permanently. It doesn't budge!!!!!
After I got done kicking myself in the ass numerous times and swearing like a sailor at sea, I came to my senses and looked at the big picture….
My choices are to remove the rudder to get an impact on the nut (which still doesn't guaranty it coming off) or remove the rudder and the shaft (which still doesn't guaranty the nut will come off) or just cut the shaft and replace it with a new one. OK, this officially sucks now!!!!

So I take the rudder out which turns out to be a whole new bag of s**t. The rudder never leaked and it turned smooth as silk by hand. I just put a couple shots of grease in it every couple years since I've owned it.
I removed the cotter pin, the tiller arm and tiller arm key and expected it to drop right out. No such luck. I got it to drop about an inch and then it seized. I lifted it and hammered it back down on it's own weight again….and again…..and again. It didn't finally release until that last 1/4” of the port and I was into it for at least an hour or more. Evidently, the tiller arm pinch bolt was drilled through the rudder shaft after it was installed in the boat which expanded the shaft enough to make it seize in the port.

This is before removal.




When I started cleaning up the rudder port, I found out there are two grease seals and an O-Ring in the port that need to be removed and replaced. All three were completely destroyed removing the rudder. I removed the upper most grease seal (and snap ring) and the O-Ring without problems. But then realized that there was another grease seal much lower in the port. There was no way I would get that seal out without either removing the gas tank (again) or removing the rudder port so I pulled the port. The rudder shaft and port were so tight I knew that I would never be able to get them back together. So, with rudder and port in hand, I made another trip back to Rob Bemman. He got everything to fit like it's supposed to. Then a call to Ron Tanis and two seals and an O-Ring were on the way.

This is everything that came out. Or rather the pieces of everything that came out.



This is the cleaned up port. You can see how scarfed up it got (the smaller diameter part of the port) trying to remove the rudder. Fortunately, the rudder shaft doesn’t actually contact that wall if it’s sized properly. The shaft should be centered with the new seals and O-Ring.




The first new seal installed




The second new seal. There's still a snap ring that goes into a groove just above this seal.



O-Ring groove in the base of the port



New O-Ring installed





As a side note, Rob Bemman's work has been absolute perfection for whatever I asked him to do. Everything he makes (booms, extended pylons, jumps, trick releases, etc.) are all skier developed and outstanding quality. I'm impressed and would highly recommend giving his products consideration if you're in the market.
Then as far as Ron Tanis goes, he and I have had very lengthy discussions at different times over the last several years. As a former AmSkier dealer, employee and owner of the company he's forgotten more about these boats then I'll ever know. He also currently owns the only shop in the country that specializes in AmSkier restorations. He's a pretty knowledgeable guy and I can't thank him enough for his help on numerous occasions.


So onto the prop shaft and the reason this whole thing snowballed out of control in the first place. I had the shaft and threads soaking in an Acetone/ATF mix for about four days while I looked for answers on the rudder and rudder port. I don't have access to a torch so I knew I was screwed in that regard. With the impact, I could unscrew the nut maybe a 1/16 turn and then tighten it maybe a 1/8 turn. Then back it off some more and tighten it up while constantly hitting it with more of the ATF mix. It finally came off but not without a fight and really messing up a few threads. As long as I can get the nut all the way up to the prop itself, it'll be on perfectly good threads. I just need to be able to get it past the bad threads first.
So I start an online search for a thread chaser and I find this…..



It's a two piece unit wrapped with a spring that holds the two halves together. You pull it apart and put it above the damaged threads. Then you take a six point socket and turn it backerds off the shaft. It's pricey compared to standard thread chasers but pretty much guaranty you can't possibly get any cross threading. A cool concept that I haven't seen before. Way cheaper than a new shaft. Then the next problem is finding a big enough six point socket (1 1/2”). Yeah…..it's a big sucker.
I acquired the chaser and the socket and slobbered the threads with anti-seize and it cleaned everything off really nice. There are parts of the threads that are missing but a nut spins on real nice with a little anti-seize for good measure.
The moral of the story here Boys and Girls is make sure that you clean up damaged threads before you run into problems like I did. Rest assured, I'll also be using a little anti-seize before spinning a prop nut on again just because.

I really am getting close to finally finishing this up until any other unforeseen snowballs come flying my way. I'll keep you guys posted. All you northern guys have nothing else happening for a few months yet anyhow so you can chill (literally) and enjoy the struggles with one of the “other guys” boats.

Wow....quite the story! It will certainly have me checking my Skylon-to-bridge clearances more carefully . Looks like a first rate job on the repair - she'll be better than new!

I have a paddle I will let you borrow - but I want it back

jbear wrote: kytom2 wrote: All this time I thought Eddies boat was Bear proof. nope... probably the last time me & Adam will be allowed in a boat together without supervision. john

Great job! Even better attitude! Can Adam come home now?

NCH20SKIER wrote: Eddie - please detail that engine while it is out of the boat, your making us all look bad.

well.....the engine might look a little rough in the pictures..but it is loud & fast.



john

Great thread Eddie, good to see you and the boat are on the mend...great info on long term CPES usage.

Gary S wrote: Bilge looks great with the paint and it looks like a heavier plate was added to the cradle also?

It was. The factory plate was 1/4". The one that he replaced it with was 1/2". Much more stout. After I got it home I was tempted to take it back and have him do the same thing with the top plate too. That was the only thing that ensured that the pylon would be in the exact same spot and be able to slide down through the hole in the floor and both plates of the cradle. I'm sure that he could have gotten those dimensions spot on but I didn't want to chance messing that up either. It's still by far stronger than the factory setup was

Gary S wrote: I like how they mounted the steering cable to the strut. Is that an angle or did they weld on to an angle to male a T?

That is 3/8" angle stock with one of the flats bolted to the studs of the strut. Then the pivot bracket that clamps on to the steering cable is bolted to this angle stock. I do plan on dressing this up a bit before I'm done and I'll take some close ups of the finished product. Stay tuned.

Gary S wrote: No correlation between this and Adam moving half way around the world then

ROFLMAO....It does sound a little suspect doesn't it???? No, Adam is purely guilty by association. He wasn't driving or doing his best Captain Morgan impersonation at all..

DrCC wrote: What do you use the suction cup bungees on the back of the seat for?

I hang my ropes on those. Works out very nicely.

I cannot imagine John but at least it was something that did not involve anyone getting hurt. I owe you a call- any good time this week?