1973 Martinique stringers |
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Posted: November-05-2015 at 10:54pm |
Just fell into a 1973 Martinique for $1200 with the Chrysler engine. Interior is Good to partly crappy depending on where you look, stringers are soft around the edges but structurally solid at this point, hull is very solid, motor mounts are very solid. It runs like a fine watch. Figure I wont lose money even if it falls apart and I have to part it out?
I have a few quick questions. 1) Weep holes between stringers - The previous owner left it uncovered and in the water all Summer so there was a good amount of water below the decking. When I pulled it out, the center section drained but the sections on either side stayed full. I sucked 10 gallons of water out via shop vac but shouldn't there be a weep hole between so the water settles in the middle and out the drain? 2) Winterizing - Owned lots of boats, never an inboard. Winterizing 101? Also, should I pull the decking (plan to replace anyway) to make double darn sure it's dry down there before it freezes or will nature take car of that in a few days?? Maybe a fan blowing under there??? 3) Stringer rot reduction. - The boat is solid but I don't feel it's worth the $$$ to gut and replace. What can I do to prevent further damage??? Sealing it up would make it worse correct??? Any technique out there to prolong the life without a full root canal??? 4) Value - I'm probably not keeping this one forever. I figure I'll clean it up, run it next year and upgrade. What's it worth? (I intend on full disclosure of condition) Thanks in advance for any help |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tim,
Welcome to CCfan. In the maintenance section there's a FAQ thread. In it are links to great threads on just about anything you need to know. The site also has a fantastic membership that can also answer questions. With the exception of the center bilge and the exhaust compartments, there aren't any true weep holes since they are foam filled. Water will get into them and the foam over the years via small defects. Where did you suck out the water? I know of no means of rot reduction/prevention. The water is in there and will stay creating a perfect environment for rot. It would be like trying to dry a sponge surrounded by plastic wrap. The good thing is you state the stringers seem to be sound so plan on getting more years out of the boat. I do suggest checking the alignment I'd say every 25 hours of use. Post some pictures. |
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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It is the Exhaust compartments that were full.. Is there a weep hole and if there is where is it located. I'm guessing it's plugged up?
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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I'll post interior pictures in the morning.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184 |
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I believe the early exhaust pocket boats (late 72 or 73 is when they stopped foaming the hoses in) drain at the rear. Inspect for those holes and raise the nose if present and clear. Later boats (starting in the mid-late 70's) got drains through the mains at the front of the pockets, which are more useful since that is the low point with the boat in the water.
As you described it, fully functional, runs good, restorable shape, but rough around the edges... And presumably mostly original? Original trailer in similar shape? $2k or so once all cleaned up. You did well at $1200. |
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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OK, so after taking it out today it seems the minor water intrusion is in the exhaust pockets, Lots (a liter or two in 45 minutes) on the passenger side and a little (cup or two) on the driver side. main pocket under the motor no problems short of normal shaft drips.
Leaky exhaust? Seals on the transom? What's the common problem? |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Could be the transom outlets or mufflers but my money is on the 42 year old exhaust hoses.
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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So get the floor up, let it sit in the water and look for where it leaks??
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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That would work. If your looking for a winter project and have the boat inside where you can work on it just pull up the floor and poke around. 42 years on a hose is pretty good,no car has hoses or an exhaust system last that long, especially one from the 70's
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tim, Gary's suggestion is good but I'd like to add that once it's out of the water, you can get the hose in the bilge and add water. If the water comes out from the inside of the exhaust thru hulls then it may be hoses, a hose connection or cracked mufflers (if equipped - the early 70's is when CC started installing them) If outside the thru hulls, then it may be the bedding compound around the thru hulls. 42 years on hoses is long but, I've got 51 years on the original hoses in one of boats and they are still in great shape. One of the things that will deteriorate hose real quick is an overheat. Maybe your boat was run at one time with failed cooling? Feel the hoses or better yet look inside. An overheated exhaust hose typically will show delamination of the rubber layers. |
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Fabcon
Gold Member Joined: August-27-2012 Location: Buffalo. Mn Status: Offline Points: 554 |
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Nice boat Tim, I saw that one up for sale was looking at it my self but presently no room for any more boats. Glad some one picked it up and you got it for a really good price. I would think chances are the exhaust hose.
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1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1984 Barefoot Nautique (Parting Out) |
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Well I dropped it off today to have a full stringer and interior restoration done over the Winter. I pick it up in the Spring looking like new inside and out for $3500.
One last question. Looking at the manual online, it says max RPM is 4000. I'm getting more like 4500 RPM. I barefoot so need to get 45 mph out of her to drag my fat ass across the lake. What should my RPM be at full throttle? |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Good luck with that hope it works out for you.If I remember correctly it's around 2k to do the stringers yourself in materials not counting your labor of course.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184 |
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Yikes
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tim, PLEASE keep an eye on the work and PLEASE post pictures especially of the stringer work. Try to do it daily since we have seen some horrendous work by so called "professionals". Before they start, ask them what materials they are planing on using and get back to us. |
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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I will post pictures and keep everyone updated. The shop doing it comes well recommended and I have used him before to restore a boat I had that had a fire (matched the gel coat perfectly). He does good work. He will give me a call this winter when he is ready to start to pick out vinyl colors and review the project. He does the fiberglass and his wife does the upholstery.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tim,
It sounds like you've had a good experience with the shop so that's great. My warning was simply because we have, as mentioned seen some very bad stringer work. I remember one where the boats owner had no choice but to rip it all out and start over. Still, keep us informed and I as well as others I'm sure are curious as to what materials he uses. |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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$3500 for all that work is beyond cheap.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tim, What engine is in the boat? A 318 would be pretty common but there are some 340's out there too. The 4000 seems low. Are you sure you found the correct manual? 4200 to 4400 to me would be a better figure. Do you know what prop is on it? Also, if it's been re pitched? Most prop shops will X out the original pitch and stamp in a new pitch number. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184 |
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4000 was the official rating on the 318. Possibly the 340 as well (the smaller 273 was rated at 4400)..
No problem spinning any of them to 4500. It's almost certainly a 318. |
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Folkenson
Newbie Joined: November-05-2015 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/Chrysler225_Manual.pdf
It has a line that says HP at Max RPM - 225 @ 4000 Boat is now with the shop for the winter so prop info etc will have to wait. |
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