1988 STRUT BUSHING

I have tried the search bar and can not come up with my answer. Did I buy the right cutlass bearing/bushing for my 1988 2001. Purchased a 1" shaft x 1-1/4" OD brass.

On a side note, I am going to spend the money and buy a StrutPro tool that allows anyone to replace the bushing/cutlass WITHOUT removing the drive shaft. To offset some of the cost I would be willing to rent it to member of this site for personal use. Please no repair shops. Sorry. I am thinking you PayPal me the cost of the tool and I will send it Priority Mail at the beginning of the week. Then you send it back the next week and I refund your money minus $100. I am told start to finish in under 1 hour and back on the water.

Not really trying to start a business. Just not drop $350 on a one time use tool. Thought someone else might like to use it too. I have a prop puller already. Got it with my new #542. Still need to confirm the cutlass size?

David,
John is correct that the "tool" isn't worth the money.

baitkiller wrote: Don't bother with the tool and business plan.

Just picture taking a slide hammer to a piece of brass tubing with a .035" wall thickness. The contact area is even less than the .035 since it needs clearance to the ID of the strut. You can't pound rubber! It may work half way decent once but then your "business" plan would suffer. Do you really believe everything you see on an internet youtube??


If you don't have an ARE shaft system, this would be a great time to install one!

Guy's, I hear what you are saying. My problem is knowledge and experience. I am sure I have enough tools to go old school but I have no way to fix anything I mess up in the process. I have tried every boat dealer within a 100 miles of my house and no one is interested. I can't even get a price. If there is anyone close to STL that has replaced a cutlass, and knows what they are doing, I'd pay you the $350 cash.

If your'e going to spend the money, I'd recommend an A.R.E. double-taper drive shaft instead of a bearing removal tool. The double taper shafts can be purchased at skidim.com or nautiqueparts.com. Pulling the shaft is the biggest challenge with the strut bearing change-out. With the shaft out, the strut bearing removal/installation is a snap.

Just my 2¢ (adjusted for inflation)

JQ

Hollywood wrote: drop the rudder, push off the coupler, remove the shaft, replace the bushing yourself with a hacksaw blade, bake the coupler, reinstall everything not a single expensive tool required, i'd be you already have everything needed.

Hollywood's right.

And if you run into trouble, you have this site to walk you through it.

Yes I have watched some You-Tube. You all have successfully talked me out of buying the strut pro tool. However my $350 offer still stands until if figure it out. To answer the question about the shops, I keep hearing we don't get into direct drives. About why I am changing, Pretty sure 95%+ it is original and there is enough play I can see it when I grab the drive shaft and wiggle it. Since I spent the money on a new prop and there is some vibration during launch seemed like the right thing to do. Yes I can get some pictures posted, and I planned to put it in the diaries section with the back story on how my wife and I ended up with this specific boat.

8122pbrainard wrote: David, I as others have mentioned, spend the money you had figured for the Strutpro on the ARE system. It's well worth it.

Pete, Please explain to me the big advantage of the ARE over the stock system. Hate to do all the lathe work if there is no big gain. Thanks, Duane

Why does he need a new shaft? While the ARE system is nice, if the existing shaft is fine, just remove it, replace strut bushing and reinstall. Some bolts/threaded rods/nuts, socket, oven and hack saw are all the tools you need. Half day effort, 2 people to handle the reinstallation of the coupler is advised.

Put the $350 into the gas tank.

TRBenj wrote: if the existing shaft is fine, just remove it.

This is the unknown.

Sorry. I was actually trying to quote Tim wondering why not just remove the shaft if it's good.

No need to pull the engine, just press the shaft out of the coupler.

have you tried doing any site searches? your questions have been answered many times over

google "strut bushing site:correctcraftfan.com/forum"

Yes, need to remove, not 'drop' the rudder (have a 2nd person handy). Not hard to do & you can grease & adjust packing while at it.

Use a socket & long screws to press out coupler. Only turn screws 1/4 turn each time so as not to distort flange.

Pete: that he couldn't find anyone interested to work on it is no surprise. Betcha if he had a newish pricy boat it would be no problem...I had once inquired all around ATL on some potential work to be done. When I told them the model year they all quickly blew me off....including the Nautique Dealer....