1988 STRUT BUSHING

Zach is in Indianapolis @N3 Boatworks

zach doesn't even have to crouch down to change a cutlass

I can't believe there isn't someone closer that will do it. It's a basic DD (or even a VD) maintenence procedure. The marina's around Table Rock must only hire back yard hacks.

I could start looking around the lake in southern Mo.(thats where we boat at) but we live in St louis. To the best of my knowledge the closest SN dealer in at the Lake of the Ozarks that's 2 hrs + They told me they were booked for service for the next 90 days or so. Check back later??? Whatever that meant.

I guess if I had some help I would be more inclined to just go for it. Taking it apart seems OK, just want to make sure goes back correctly and runs true. A professional shop who does it for a living has the experience.

Gary S wrote: backfoot100 wrote: Of course you are correct. Complete brain fart on my part. I just find it easier to pull the engine but I have a hoist system that makes it easy. Everyone (except Jbear) who owns something Chevy powered has/needs a hoist system

LOL. I need it more for my Volvo's then I did for the Chevy. It's OK to admit that deep down inside, you're really a Chevy guy too. No one will fault you for that. JBear turned to the dark side. You can too....

I wish someone would come up with a device that would attach to the strut and push the bushing out. It would be much better than cutting it out with a saw.

That is just what I was thinking of. If it works well it might only take a couple of struts to be worth the price for no aggravation.

Dropping the strut is the easiest way to do it. No coupling bake, no rudder drop, four bolts and its off. You now have a dozen choices on how to change the bearing including dropping the strut off at a prop shop or car mechanic or machine shop, using threaded rod and pipe, hack saw, drift and hammer, plasma cutter, atomic fission, telling your son to NOT Take That Bushing OUT etc. Chances are very good it (the strut) isn't lined up correctly anyway and now you can do a proper alignment. (that you were gonna have to do anyway)
This is more like tractor science than rocket science.

Baitkiller, I hear you, but reinstalling the strut is another job for a nice spring day. You probably can't relate to working in a cramped, dark, cold garage.

Riley wrote:    We're trying to do a quick engine swap,.

Bruce,
With an engine swap, you've got it easy since you don't have to mess with the shaft coupling. Just pull the shaft out forward when the engines out. Do, as mentioned, check the strut alignment but with the engine sway you'll be doing a full alignment anyway.

Engine swap? Are you going non original on me again? Fill us in!

If the strut is lined up to the log, I wouldn't pull it. If it's not, then it needs to be pulled anyways so go for it! I have cut out bushings both with the strut in place and with it removed, it's not THAT much easier to get it out with the strut off (it's a bit of a PITA regardless), certainly not enough to justify pulling the strut if it's currently lined up properly. Rico got his old bushing out in about 30 min this summer, boat was on the lift and he was in the water. Very doable. Throw a space heater in the garage Bruce, it'll all be over in an hour.

Like Pete, I have my doubts about the strut pro being easy to use. There's just so little surface area for it to grab onto. If it were cheaper it might be worth trying but I'd rather borrow one first, ha.

Riley wrote:    It does look like the shaft was riding on the log a little which seems to be typical of the boats I've pulled apart.

The engine is probably out of alignment but do keep in mind it all starts at the strut.

Those are just performance bolt ons, plenty of people do that.

I fixed a long bolt with a pair of 1.25" washers between 2 nuts. Tap this way a little, then back. Add a few drops of oil to the high side if needed and out she comes.