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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-25-2015 at 9:17am
I cant imagine not having a full basement
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-25-2015 at 9:35am
Crawl spaces are better, easier to bury the bodies
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-25-2015 at 5:26pm
but someone always seems to find them 20 yrs later .. well some of them
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-26-2015 at 8:36am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jerry,
I'll comment on this. With pex, (or any system) the prefered method is to "home run" all the supplies. This mimimizes fittings so you only have the potential leaks at the manifold and then at the point of use. The worst thing that could happen is if you "tee'd" a tap in a line and the pour over it with concrete and then have a problem.


Pretty cool. Slim to no chance of the material (piping) cracking or leaking under slab due to freezing or any other situation? That seems to be a common reason here in Florida for a "re-pipe". Copper piping springing leaks caused from they say, water quality, and replacing through the walls and attic.
I liked the claims for the system (Pex?) for water and power conservation and simplicity for repair.
Cost vs traditional different?
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-26-2015 at 9:40am
material costs are about 30% of copper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-26-2015 at 12:30pm
Originally posted by Smithfamily Smithfamily wrote:

Looking great! Educate me, with the blue and red "lines", water? And will that use a "manifold"? I recently made an offer on a house that had this "manifold" system in the garage. Curious of its appearance, and having no clue as to what it was, I did a "search" online (Took me awhile!!) Water direct to the end source! Very impressive and a $$ saver. Is that the case here? And install cost vs traditional? And no fear of breakage/leakage under slab? The system I looked at was through the walls and attic, a "re-pipe" obviously.
What is the square footage (living) and what do you estimate your cost per/square ft, without land? And, when do you estimate the housewarming party to be?? Haha! Thanks for keeping us posted!


Yeah, as Pete said it is PEX and the manifolds give the home run and the above ground point of connections. I think this also leaves the option for the hot water recirculator my contractor is thinking about, and it might leave the option open for the small tankless units.

Our square footage is 2426 per the plans. We are shooting for around $75-80/sq ft (~$180k), but that is with us doing some of the work. Normally, this house should cost about $210 or a little higher, depending on options, in this area.

The housewarming party will probably be in the summer...come on down. :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-26-2015 at 12:31pm
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

I cant imagine not having a full basement


Growing up in Southern CA, basements were foreign to us. We lived in South Dakota for a few years, where basements were common. Here' you see them one in a while, but they aren't common. It's interesting the differences in different parts of the country.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-26-2015 at 12:33pm
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

material costs are about 30% of copper


I believe that is correct...PEX is less than copper. Plus, it is far less likely to get stolen off a job site. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2015 at 8:02am
Originally posted by Smithfamily Smithfamily wrote:


Pretty cool. Slim to no chance of the material (piping) cracking or leaking under slab due to freezing or any other situation? That seems to be a common reason here in Florida for a "re-pipe". Copper piping springing leaks caused from they say, water quality, and replacing through the walls and attic.

We just had Thanksgiving dinner with friends in the old neighborhood. They had just finished having the plumber jack hammer their floor up to get to the leaking copper. I saw the cause of the problem and it was very evident. The install was done with an acid flux on type M copper (thinnest and cheapest copper). I suspect this won't be the only time the jack hammer will be needed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2015 at 8:32am
$210 a square foot! Wow! I would love to have a house built per our specs and desires, but here too cost is high, but nowhere near that! I really like that Pex system. I am curious now to see if it is used much around my area. North west of Orlando. Keep the pictures and updates coming!
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2015 at 9:11am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Smithfamily Smithfamily wrote:


Pretty cool. Slim to no chance of the material (piping) cracking or leaking under slab due to freezing or any other situation? That seems to be a common reason here in Florida for a "re-pipe". Copper piping springing leaks caused from they say, water quality, and replacing through the walls and attic.

We just had Thanksgiving dinner with friends in the old neighborhood. They had just finished having the plumber jack hammer their floor up to get to the leaking copper. I saw the cause of the problem and it was very evident. The install was done with an acid flux on type M copper (thinnest and cheapest copper). I suspect this won't be the only time the jack hammer will be needed.
I see more old m copper used in residential homes when its 20 pus yrs old it is so thin walled (thinner walled) and ready to leak . for anyone who doesnt already know when you look at a copper pipe if it has blue markings on it it is type l . L is a thicker walled pipe to be used for any aspect of plumbing in your home . When you see a red line or marking that is type m and is only to be used for heating systems . pex piping often times used in both red and blue but in that case it only means hot and cold. and please if you are going to try any home plumbing remember the 3 rules
1 hot left
2 cold right
3 s#*t wont flow up a pipe
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2015 at 12:05pm
Originally posted by Smithfamily Smithfamily wrote:

$210 a square foot! Wow! I would love to have a house built per our specs and desires, but here too cost is high, but nowhere near that! I really like that Pex system. I am curious now to see if it is used much around my area. North west of Orlando. Keep the pictures and updates coming!


I just realized I may not have stated that correct. This contractor would have cost us $210k total if we had him do all the work. He would have bid $225k to most people, but we know him and he knocked his price down from the start. The other bids I got were $225k-250k, so anywhere up to ~$100/sq ft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2015 at 5:52pm
The slab is poured and machine finished. It took them quite a while to get it right, especially with our cooler temperatures right now. It turned out good and we're excited for the next phase.











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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2015 at 12:30am
Cool Stuff. A little late to the party, but still time to so some fun stuff. Mark a spot on the property and take a picture from that spot everyday, you can them combine them all and do a time lapse, its ends up being a pretty cool momento.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2015 at 8:56am
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Cool Stuff. A little late to the party, but still time to so some fun stuff. Mark a spot on the property and take a picture from that spot everyday, you can them combine them all and do a time lapse, its ends up being a pretty cool momento.


That's a great idea! Same spot, and try for same time of day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SWANY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2015 at 10:48am
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Cool Stuff. A little late to the party, but still time to so some fun stuff. Mark a spot on the property and take a picture from that spot everyday, you can them combine them all and do a time lapse, its ends up being a pretty cool momento.


We did that on a house we're building right now to give to the customer in the end and to put on our web site. Next three weeks of time lapse photos will be really cool. Framing,roofing,windows and siding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2015 at 1:27pm
Very cool idea. I'm definitely going to do that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2015 at 11:49am
So, not a whole lot has happened since the slab pour, other than getting a few tasks done and getting ready for the framers. The slab has set up well and it has been interesting to watch the changes as it cures. The process of machine finishing to this level is pretty cool and it goes through some amazing changes. We're definitely seeing more motteling (sp?) and pattern/color variation as it cures. This week, they got the septic system in, drilled the well and got the temp power pole in place. The build package is set to be delivered mid week and framing should start late in the week. We're really looking forward to this stage and seeing the house really take shape.



















We managed to increase our firewood stash this last week as ice storms hit the are we live now. Many trees throughout the neighborhood fell victim to the ice storm and had to be cut down, including two of my neighbors' trees.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2015 at 12:34pm
Andy,
How deep do they need to go to get decent water? Is it good or will treatment be needed? What are the black plastic pieces in the 5th picture?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2015 at 1:08pm
It depends a little on the area of the state, but our specific area that go somewhere between 140 and 180 feet. The water in our area is good and usually doesn't require treatment. They ended up at 140 feet, with good water content and 12 GPM supply.

The black plastic pieces are for the lateral lines (leach field) of the septic. Here's a video showing how they are installed. Seems like a pretty cool system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tjpu_ffaTsk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2015 at 2:43pm
Andy,
Thanks for the link I've never see it used for leach fields up here before but I'm sure soil types as well as peculation determines it's use.

You sure have great GPM's. Did you have the water tested yet?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2015 at 3:02pm
No, I'll be getting a full test soon. The well drilling company had a device checking the water as they drilled and said it looked good, but I want to do an independent test, too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2015 at 10:00pm
I have seen that type of field used in Kane County Pete. Pretty interesting concept,it was a replacement for a failed system. I was there because they found the phone line
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2015 at 7:25am
We use the same Leach field system in Florida. (Areas that do not have city septic) I just had to have one replaced, $4000. For interest sake, 2600 sq ft house.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2015 at 8:13am
Originally posted by Okie Boarder Okie Boarder wrote:

our specific area that go somewhere between 140 and 180 feet. They ended up at 140 feet, with good water content and 12 GPM supply.

I consider myself lucky that in our area we don't need to go real deep so the expense $$$ is low . My drilled is at 50' and I'm 12' up off the lake! We used to get by with driven wells which is nothing but a 2" pipe with a screened "point" on the end. Not many around that will do it anymore since you can't drive very deep so the liability of not getting good water is too high (bacterial content). The only problem we have is high iron content so a softener designed for iron is needed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2015 at 9:55am
our systems avg 25 to 30 thousand here . we have so many setback laws from wet lands. and stringent above ground water laws and perk rates. in our town we have doubled the state requirements from 75 to 150 ft setback
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-18-2015 at 2:42pm
Framing has begun. After getting all the concrete finalized and looking at the plans, it was looking like our garage was not going to be as tall (doors and ceilings) as was planned. The slab of the garage was actually partially up off grade and we didn't go as high on the stem was as the plans. To stick with the taller ceilings in the garage and to do 10' tall doors, we had to raise the rood over the garage, so it will transition right there to a few feet higher. We're interested to see how it ends up looking...we've looked around at other houses that transition higher in the garage area and it is a pretty cool look.





















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-19-2015 at 1:53am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I was there because they found the phone line



Ah yes......overtime talkin' right here.......



john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-19-2015 at 10:30am
Originally posted by Okie Boarder Okie Boarder wrote:

To stick with the taller ceilings in the garage and to do 10' tall doors, we had to raise the rood over the garage,

Andy,
You may already know but to avoid going to a "low overhead" door which is more $$$, you need 12" above the door RO to the ceiling so, you would need a 11' ceiling. With a low overhead door, you need 9.5" using a standard torsion spring set up.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-19-2015 at 10:42am
That's at a minimum, right? I think the plan is 12' ceilings with the 10' doors.
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