2001 Wakeboard Config Suggestions

You will love the 86. Its a blast to drive and It has an inherently great wakeboard wake (size and shape) at boarding speeds without ballast. I don't board myself but I tow my son. I hear from all it is easier to get out of the water with the extended pylon. The pylon also lets you have passengers in the back seat (free ballast)The pylon has a strap and harness that goes from the nose of the boat to the top of the pylon. Properly adjusted it takes the load off the pylon mount.and works fantastic without putting a bunch of holes in your boat,

Pat,
First off, congrats on the boat and post some pics. Everyone here loves pics.

Secondly, you'll quickly find out that tubing doesn't bode very well here. There have been countless discussions on the lack of talent needed to partake but on the flip side, it has also been a stepping stone for countless young ones before strapping a ski on so be prepared for that discussion....again.

There have also been countless debates about tower vs. extended pylon. A quick search should provide hours of entertainment.

Purists believe a pylon is the only way to go to keep the lines and intended use for the boat intact without drilling holes and mounting that God awful cage on top of your classic ride. If you want a tower, buy a boat that came from the factory with one and don't f**k up a classic. I guess you can tell which side of the fence I'm on. FYI, an extended pylon will actually cause less strain on your pylon because it's being anchored from the top so that is not a concern. Several here have made a loose, unusable pylon work for a season or more with a properly adjusted extend pylon without a problem.

On the flip side, I also see the benefits of a tower and the space it can free up on the floor. Properly installed, it is much more stronger and can take side loading where an extended pylon cannot. So what does that mean???? I wouldn't want to try an "around the boat" with an extended pylon where a tower works fine. So if that trick is going to be in your repertoire you'll want a tower. Virtually anything else that I can think of an extended pylon will suffice.

Ultimately the choice is yours and one you have to live with. My suggestion would be to get out and enjoy the boat. Get a feel for the old girl. Play around and get some water time skiing and wakeboarding. The whole concept of a higher pull point was never thought of when your boat was built and contrary to popular opinion, you don't need a higher pull point to be able to enjoy any watersports.
If you feel you must have a higher pull point, then get an extended pylon to get used to it without doing any damage to the boat. After you get some experience and decide that a tower may work out better for you, sell the pylon and install a tower. Extended pylons resell pretty easily.

Where in FL are you? A lot of members here from FL.

I agree with the others on the extended pylon. It should work fine for what you're trying to do.

Folks,

Appreciate all of the information. I'll go with the pylon and see how that works out.

I live in Melbourne, FL, but I'll be using the boat on lake Upstate NY. Unfortunately, the boat is currently up there, so I won't be able to get pics until the spring.

proper tubing config

I'll be using it on Lake Bonaparte, which is a small lake located in Harrisville, about 50 minutes from Watertown.

Well that certainly qualifies as upstate NY. (some people think anything north of the Tappan Zee Bridge is upstate).

I spent my summers about 60 miles south of that on a lake in Forestport. In 1971, I spent a summer in Watertown. Met a guy there that the following summer became my "let's teach ourselves to barefoot" buddy. Most memorable summer ever.

You didn't mention barefooting in your plans....never say never!!!

1972

I used a pylon on my 1985 SN2001   Worked great as it got the rope high enough if you need to have people sit in the back seat.   Once you get confident enough to start jumping shorten the rope about 5 to 10' in front of the shortest loop (this will bring you a good wake for jumping). and slow down to about 15 mph water is much softer and less painful at this speed especially since we are not as you as we use to be. At least until you are comfortable. I agree with the other comment to get the right sized board. I weigh 200 lbs and learned on my kids 118 board - it was exhausting. When I got a new 142 board I was amazed how much easier it was.    If money is no object I would get a couple of lessons so you learn the right/easy way

Guys,

Thanks again for all of the great information. Several weeks ago I purchased a Acme 540 prop based upon internet research, but it was good to see the same recommendation from member SNobsessed. I'm currently considering the stainless Sky High X Pole pylon extension. Does anyone have any comments (good or bad) regarding this pylon extension, or any others? I prefer to get one that slides over the existing factory pylon. Also, I noticed that in almost all of the wakeboard training videos that I've viewed, the front skeg has been removed from the wakeboard. Is this the preferred configuration, or just the recommended configuration for beginners? Additionally, what length tow rope would you recommended for the 2001 for beginners? I've currently got a generic ski tow rope, but I have no idea how long it is.. I'm sure that at least some of these questioned have been answered in the past, so I apologize if I'm repeating them.

I have Stainless steel Fly Hi, works just fine. I have the bow strap tied to the lift ring so that I can leave the strap on when trailering. Saves a few minutes threading the strap thru the bow eye each time.

Thanks for the chuckle Larry, I was just about to post "uh oh"!

Doh!    

Absolutely do not use a polypropylene "ski" rope from a high pull. It can come recoiling back into the boat with a vengeance. Get yourself a non-stretch spectra/dyneema rope.

75 Tique wrote: Oh boy, here we go.

Trust us. It's not pretty.