Prop question/suggestion/problem

It certainly is/has been a hot topic.

This is the tube and the crack is where the x is marked in pencil.

Luchog wrote: I think he got the best performance out of an old bronze propeller, that certainly goes against everything we have preached on CNC propeller design/performance figures. Keep in mind CNC propellers are designed for standarized boats and uses. I believe that, starting from a either a CNC or non-CNC propeller, he could get it modified and obtain better numbers, not only stick with what ACME or OJ have on their catalogs. I dont know which company would be better to work this out with. There are many factors beyond pitch and diameter that could be adressed in order to obtain better performance and not all hulls respond the same to them. Most of the times propellers are good to go off the box, but for very demanding users or specific performance goals, they sure need some extra tunning. It may be a long way and even might no throw improvements at the end, but it can also be a good learning experience. I think with the numbers and testing he's doing, it will make a good base for further propeller tunning.

All good points and exactly the reason I'm saying that he won't find 2MPH from purely a prop change in this situation.
I have an American Skier. My Advance hull is nowhere near his TBX hull but it's a hell of lot closer then what any CC hull is to it. That's pretty much evident in the proof that his boat is currently faster then any other CC that has 50 more HP. It's obviously a faster hull.
I've tested OJ Nibral and CNC three and four blades with and without cup and I'm currently running an ACME which was the best overall performer. I can tell you that I got the fastest top end speed with the factory prop. The holeshot sucked but purely from a WOT speed, that Federal was fastest and I highly doubt that he find anything else that will be any faster.

So here are my personal observations:
1) Go and buy that 176 for $15k (price is purely for arguments sake) and still be looking for more speed.
2) Go buy a 383 like Andy (Glasseeker) has done. It'll bolt right in and he'll have at least 75 extra HP immediately with EFI. He'll have a friggin' rocket compared to anything in his buddies stable of boats now and for half the price of that 176.
3) and the cheapest way for a few years until he can get his 176 that won't be fast enough is Vortec heads and intake, lose the EFI and put a carb on top. All for about $2K he'll easily get that 2MPH and a maybe a little to boot.

Again, purely my observations. My personal choice would be option 2. I'm very anti-EFI but Landis seems to want to be able to keep it. Then again, I'm pretty American Skier biased...LOL.

Some federals will run pretty decent up top without a load. It has not been my experience that federals run fastest in modern-sized ski boats (2001 and later), though the lighter/smaller 16' boats respond to them (purely top end, they still suck for all around use). Newer/larger boats have run faster with Acmes, in my experience- though sometimes the federals are close. That changes quite a bit with a barefooter behind the boat though, the Acmes hold speed much better. For all around use, the federals are pretty horrid in comparison. I had a 13x13 federal 3-blade on a 415hp 502 barefoot nautique and you had to nail it out of the hole when pulling a barefooter. We've really become spoiled with the responsiveness of modern props.

Black foot thanks for the pics. I was wondering if you could take that tube out. The crack is not in the top. That x is just for the visual. It is inside of the tube in the bottom of the hull. You can get your head in the back and see it. I may just cut the back half out of the tube or just get rid of it all together.

Get to finally try out TRBenj recommendation. I picked up a acme 913 today so we will see.

The shaft log was not even stuck down to the hull anymore. It was also leaking through cracked fiberglass in the front that was built up around the log. Been grinding it all out and hoping to get it back together this week. It is ready to be put back together right now. Oh and there was a hold in the metal shaft long.

Have not tried the OJ but I got the acme for 100 bucks off craigslist so could not pass that up. Figured I would atleast try it.

Should be much more dry inside after its finished ha. Good time to check condition of the cutlass bearing as well as do a fresh shaft alignment. Repack the gland with gortex and never look back.

phatsat67 wrote: Should be much more dry inside after its finished ha. Good time to check condition of the cutlass bearing as well as do a fresh shaft alignment. Repack the gland with gortex and never look back.

Well during the winter I knew the boat was leaking so I resealed the bond line in the back and bought a new stuffing box. Mine was wore crooked from being out of alignment and new gfo packing went in. Shaft had to come out for that so I did the cutlass bearing and the rudder at that time. Then realigned the motor. I thought that would fix it all and I guess not. Now the shaft and rudder are back out again so I can do this. Atleast it only took like 30min this time because I knew what I was doing.

It would take me months in the winter but its ski time now. Good thing there are lots of other boats to use. Its actually not that bad. I have about 3 hrs into it and about 45 min was wasted trying to grind around the shaft with a dremel. Then I was told to just do it all so I got the grinder with the masonry wheel out took the shaft out and got to work. Lets just say my garage has a thin layer of white dust everwhere.

Finally Got the fiberglass done last night. Time to put it back together and go test some props.

Landis,
Get a BRASS Nylock prop shaft nut so you won't need to drill out the shaft. A distorted hole is hard to drill since the bit will, as you found out, grab and then break. If you want to continue to use the castle nut, you would be better off using a reamer on the hole.

A silicone grease will not affect plastic parts. Small tubes of dielectric grease which is silicone based are available at auto supplies.

You have been lapping all the props to the shaft correct?

Another alternative is synthetic grease. It doesn't eat plastic like petrol grease does. You can get little tubes of high temp brake caliber grease at auto parts stores for a few $, usually at the counter.

So got out last night to test the 913. We did a top speed run with 3 ppl in the boat. We were bouncing between 39-40 at 4600rpm. So time to sell that prop. I need to get the OJ 12.5x11.5 back on and do a speed and rpm test. I got speed with a footer was 41-42 bouncing between and with no footer rpm was 4300ish. But forgot to check speed on that run. Out of the hole the 913 was awesome tho. It had some hit. I think Im going to stick with the OJ tho. So if anybody wants a 913 let me know but im guessing you wont.

Haha ok Its been pretty long for me also. All I know is that the new oj is the best. Ill look through and get exact numbers and make a list.