1987 Martinique starter

I am installing a new starter in my 87 Martinique and am unsure if it needs to be right or left rotation. Original 351 motor. I admit it is sad that I don't know the answer to this on.

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all the problems started when the carburetor was having issues. It had the original carb, so I decided to buy a new one. I installed the new one with the help of a mechanic friend. We were adjusting the carb on the lake and the battery drained and was on its way out any way, so I bought a new battery. Then the stater starting giving us problems, which was also already on its way to the grave and it finally gave out. So now I'm in for a new battery. And now new starter and a new carb . But the stater Is my big problem at the moment.
If you stand at the front of the motor looking towards the rear of the boat, the belts are turning clockwise, or to the right.

One more thing, hopefully you didn't purchase a deep cycle battery!

Dcorrie wrote: I think the old Solenoid was sticking. We could tap on it and get it to engage, but not every time. I figured it was just easier to buy a new one. So, I need a RH starter which will turn the motor counterclockwise right? the battery dies about every 13 months with is 1 month past the warranty of course for the last 2 years in a row:) Any ideas on where to get a starter on a weekend other than a marina, because I already called the Nautique dealership and they are out.

David,
The starter relay sticking is a classic case of low voltage caused by a bad battery or using a deep cycle. (Is (Again, are you using a deep cycle?) The low voltage causes a higher than normal amperage (Ohm's law) that the relay can't handle. It welds the contacts together causing the starter to stay engaged. Bad battery cables and the terminals is another cause of low voltage.

I commonly get 6 to 7 years out of a battery and I know many here get the same life. A regular automotive starting battery is fine. Don't be fooled into getting a large amp CCA rating. To get the rating up, the plates are bigger and the internal support is less so the battery can't handle the shock from a boat. 650 to 750 CCA is plenty.

What tests has your mechanic friend been doing? Has he gotten any voltages readings which would indicate if the battery, relay or starter is the problem? Testing before just throwing parts at it is always key to not becoming just a "parts changer! If he hasn't been testing, ask us first before getting more parts. Again, is he an automotive mechanic?

Unless you get real lucky, you will need to order the RH starter as the RR engine is a thing of the past. I asked about rebuilding your old starter? Did your friend mention it? Since he's a mechanic, ask him to take a closer look at it. Typically all that's needed is the commutator turned down, a set of brushes,, maybe bushings. and Ohming the winding's.

I found these posts while looking for information concerning my problem: the starter will not stop running when the key is released. This happened 4 years ago and a new starter relay and battery solved the problem. It happened again yesterday. I quickly disconnected the battery from the relay to stop the starter. If the terminal connections are not tight will that cause the starter to stick on? I haven't started the repair yet; just put the boat on the trailer until I can work on it.

A starter for a Ford Winsor PCM engine that is a Right Hand rotation engine is classified as a CCW (Counter clockwise) rotation starter.

The starter meshes into the flywheel from the front of the engine and spins CCW thus spinning the flywheel clock wise when viewed from behind which would be a RH engine output rotation.

You have to be careful with the starter nomenclature because you'll for sure A) confuse most parts guys and B) get the wrong starter.

Thanks Pete. I haven't been active on the forum for some time, as the boat's done a great job. Could almost swearI there's a regular starter battery in it, but since it's been starting and running so well, I haven't had the occasion to look. Meant to check the water level in the battery last week, but the grand kids were hot to go. Will do as you say, as it makes sense and I was not present when my son replaced the battery a few years ago. Thanks again to you and the forum regulars-I have depended on you for years.

Thanks Gotta ski:. Very concise and erudite explanation. I think I've got it.

psherwin wrote: I'm getting ready to chase down and fix this problem, but while at it I'd like to know if it'd be worth it to buy 2 starter batteries and hook them up in tandem neg to neg and pos to pos. As I understand the problem, it seems that having more amps might help prevent the low power that fused either the solenoid or the starter relay. I know that some do this, but is it worth the trouble and expense?

Why? 2 Batteries are not needed. Chase down the problem with the suggestions made.