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    Posted: August-21-2016 at 10:13pm
where can i get a wiring harness for my 80 nautique?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2016 at 10:29pm
I think you will have to make one. The wiring is not very complex so it is do-able. Pete has a schematic, was posted recently on another thread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2016 at 10:37pm
I think John posted something about a harness supplier on just another mustang thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2016 at 10:38pm
Someone in here just found and bought a new 8-pin harness for the dash side.
Don't remember which thread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2016 at 10:49pm
Richard,
Here's the wiring diagram. However, considering that you needed to ask where to find a ground under the dash, it may be appropriate to get some help if you make the harness yourself or, go with Gary and Al's idea of searching out a premade harness?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 12:22am
What marination? Just noticed that skidim has a warehouse sale. One of the items was a Crusader instrument cluster. Look on this page:
http://www.skidim.com/SAVE-BIG-Warehouse-Sale/products/1179/2/0

They do have some engine>to>dash wiring harness options. I'm guessing these aren't able to handle an ammeter type of dash. But there are some options there:
http://www.skidim.com/searchprods.asp?searchstring=harness&pagenumber=1&val=0
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 10:06am
SkiDIM sells the Pcm engine side harnesses. You should be able to get exactly what you need. Call if you don't see it listed. If you wanted to make something custom, a 10' harness/extension like what skidim sells (but unwrapped) would work perfectly. They're available from many marine part places, like ebasicpower.

The 8-pin engine to dash harness is the same whether you have a voltmeter or ammeter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80SN Barnfind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 10:52am
Roofer, ck Here

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 11:08am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

The 8-pin engine to dash harness is the same whether you have a voltmeter or ammeter.

I would question the gauge of the wire in these pre made harnesses especially if you plan on using an ammeter. It looks like the red and black + feed. and - return are only 10 gauge. With a round trip wire length that doesn't add up to much even at a 10% voltage drop. Just like many have done, I'd certainly suggest up sizing those wires even if you are only using a volt meter. Check the load and then the amp charts.   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 11:16am
10awg on the batt, neg, and alt wires of the harness are certainly not overkill but are sufficient to support a stock electrical system. Cc used these same harnesses from the 60's through at least the early 90's. Adding additional ground/power wires is one of the improvements that can be made to see less of a voltage drop at the dash... But even with old wires and dirty connections they are still functional without them. Purely an optional upgrade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 1:46pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

10awg on the batt, neg, and alt wires of the harness are certainly not overkill but are sufficient to support a stock electrical system. .

Not with an amp meter.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

10awg on the batt, neg, and alt wires of the harness are certainly not overkill but are sufficient to support a stock electrical system. .

Not with an amp meter.

Yes, with an ammeter. Better get your chart out. Thousands upon thousands of correct crafts were built this way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

10awg on the batt, neg, and alt wires of the harness are certainly not overkill but are sufficient to support a stock electrical system. .

Not with an amp meter.

Yes, with an ammeter. Better get your chart out. Thousands upon thousands of correct crafts were built this way.

Tim,
I don't care how many CC's were built that way. They were built for many years pushing the limits of wire capacity and to the point of being over the 10% voltage drop when loaded. How many times have we recommended up sizing wire to and from the dash to correct low voltage problems? Maybe you don't know how to read the voltage drop charts!! What harm is it to run some extra wire along with a pre made wiring harness?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 3:26pm
I can read them just fine. The factory wiring is not lacking from a safety or functional standpoint. Many people have cleaned and/or re-terminated their 20-50 year old connections and solved the low voltage at the dash annoyance. Again, it is not a bad idea to run extra wires (and I have done this myself) but it is purely optional and not required from a safety standpoint.

The charts I am looking at reference a 60A capacity on a 10awg wire in a 12V system with a relatively short run (<20'). Most original alternators I have seen through the early 90's were no larger than 35A. Plenty safe and perfectly functional, as evidenced by the hordes of older boats still operating safely with the stock wiring in place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2016 at 6:01pm
This is a better way to look at it:

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

You can decide for yourself whether a slightly larger than 3% voltage drop is acceptable at the upper end of the current range your alt is capable of. Clearly CC was ok with the drop. I have seen no functional issues with a >10% voltage drop at nominal (not even high draw) conditions, due to old wiring and corroded connections. In any case, it is not a safety concern (at 10% voltage drop, 10awg can support up to 60A, well beyond stock alt output).

Again, purely an optional upgrade to run additional wires. There is no other way to put it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2016 at 8:35am
Tim,
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

This is a better way to look at it:
There is no other way to put it!

Really???
You are really surprising me with you pushing the wire size to the minimum. You are typically very conservative with anything you do. Here's the link to the Blueseas chart you seem to be looking at. There are several factors that the chart doesn't show and you aren't taking into consideration. The temperature rating of the insulation and if the wire gauge is AWG or SAE size rated are factors but I'll assume the chart shows the good AWG gauges and the good temp rating of 105 C so no de rating. If wire is run in engine spaces, then derate by 15%. (60 x 15% = 51 amp) Then the big critical is if the wire is bundled into a group which really affects the cooling. The harness in question is bundled so 4 to 6 wires together that's a 40% derate. ( 51 x 40% = 30 amp) Now if a amp meter is used and going back to a 35 amp alternator if the battery and the boat electrical load is taking the full 35 amps, you are over the wire capacity!! I sure hope you have proper overcurrent protection with that 10 gauge!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2016 at 9:19am
Not everything has to be over-engineered, Pete. Running the extra wires and sealing everything up properly is actually a pretty big PITA. Not a bad idea to add them, but not required.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2016 at 9:44am
Give it up Tim

You can't say it any better than you already did

Just remember, you live in the real world not Pete's odd little world.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2016 at 11:23am
One thing that I'm still confused about (not that I'm understanding all of it, but some of it I have to let go), how can you possibly use the same wire harness for an ammeter type and a volt gauge type dash?

With the ammeter, the alternator output needs a way to get to the dash ammeter, and then double back to the main engine breaker, right? With the voltmeter, it's just going one way, and then going to ground. Correct me if I'm wrong. But then seems like two different wiring methods (logically), putting gauge aside for now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2016 at 11:59am
Do the harnesses include ALL the wiring or just what's coming off the plug? I wouldn't assume the daisy chains to be included, or the ammeter return wire ("red to ign sw")
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2016 at 12:09pm
Every 8-pin harness I have encountered is the same, the pin out is illustrated in both my makeshift pictorial wiring diagram or the official PCM one. They all include both the alt (Orange) and batt (red) wires. The difference in the wiring is whether the alt output is tied to the batt connection at the engine side (usually the protected side of the breaker on a PCM) or not. Voltmeter set ups are connected on the engine side, ammeter set ups are connected at the dash after running through the ammeter. In the former set up, you essentially have redundant 10awg wires for the +12v feed to the dash. This is why the ground is usually considered the weak link in terms of undersized wires/voltage drop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2016 at 1:37pm
That makes a little more sense now.

Here is a link to Tim's makeshift pictorial wiring diagram for anyone else trying to follow along: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/1765/Tims_wiring_diagram.jpg
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