1972 SN Promo Project

I like the videos a lot… with photo bucket almost always inoperable getting pictures on this site has become just about impossible for me to handle. What are you using for a camera? I would start with 220 dry on that motor box... once you see a bit of color return you can move to wetsanding. You might not have enough gel to work with but yellow aint going to cut it anyway… you would need to regel or cover in vinyl if you can’t find some orange under there.
That transmission has a square head on a threaded plug on the top, back, port side. You unscrew it and there is a dip stick attached. That transmission is the least of your worries… readily available and rebuildable if needed.
The engine looks so far so good. I don’t know that I would turn it over with the starter until you determine the source of the noise or it goes away though. Continue as you have been but now that you have the plugs removed I would consider priming oil through the engine by whatever black magic chyrsler guys do that ( pull the distributor and use a long screwdriver bit on a drill perhaps?) and then continue to roll it over by hand until it gets smooth, relatively easy, and you see all valves moving up and down. If it still makes noise at that point remove the transmission, including starter, and bell housing/damper and see if it goes away. Pete might be on the right track in that you have the output shaft of the transmission stuck to the damper.. in which case use the hole in the bellhousing where the starter mounts to remove the bolts holding the damper to the flywheel so you can separate the engine and the transmission.
Bottom paint sucks… and yours does look to be covering up some cracks in the gelcote… however those cracks might not be that big and noticeable once wetsanded and buffed.   Be ready to throw anything that works at that stuff.. I have used chemical strippers available at lowes.. and they do bubble up and make a certain amount removable… have plenty of plastic scrapers available to get it off when its wet as it hardens back up if you leave it too long. Once I have gotten it down to a certain patchy thinness sometimes its best to just remove the rest with acetone and Teflon pan scrubbys… still a chemical mess. And even then some will just have to be sanded likely … wear your PPE.

Spending a little more money and buying one will serve you because a straight hex shaft could mess up the distributor shaft bushing in the block.

Also, don't go full throttle on your drill if you want it to live and use a cord in wall rather than battery, oil pump priming really destroys drills quickly.

Oil pump tool

Nice project. I also like the videos. Great work

After reading the posts about priming the engine oil it started getting me thinking about the future of the engine. I'm totally willing to do it and prime the oil. however, given the general condition of the engine and the fact that it's missing two freeze plugs, is it worth doing this before I pull the engine apart for inspection?

I'm not opposed to doing the work, but do you think A compression test is worth it even if the engine has to get torn apart for inspection? I'm not being a smart a$$ here, I'm just asking lol.

Zach, I ordered the part that you suggested just because it seems like a good idea to have regardless.

Why rebuild it if it'll run with some TLC? Get it spinning and do a compression test.

Every promo (including ours) that I've seen in person has a platform that someone added after the fact. Never seen one with evidence of having had a ladder. I hate it. Removing the platform is a PITA but I'd consider it nonetheless. I would never add one.

I agree with Tim 100%. Ditch the platform!

Hollywood wrote: So you have one to sell?

I'll totally buy it

I'll get to the boat in Friday and try to accomplish the following:

1. Remove starter and see if noise persists.
2. Varify the trans is in neutral!
3. Disconnect the alternator and water pump.
4. Oil change............I'm assuming this is a flat tappet engine and VR1 is recommended?
5. If the priming tool arrives, prime oil system and spin engine.

Frankenotter wrote: 1. Remove starter and see if noise persists. 2. Varify the trans is in neutral!.

Chris,
If you are verifying the trans is in neutral to find that noise, the shift lever position doesn't matter. Without the engine running, there isn't any hydraulic pressure developed by the trans pump to engage ether the forward or reverse clutch packs.

Cool Project and cool thread! I really like the videos. Boat looks pretty complete. The platform does look like it is off a MasterCraft. Like the others suggested, I would remove it. If you want to restore it to period correct I wouldn't put one back on but if you are going to use the boat as a ski tug, I would look for teak platform. Very excited to see updates! Good luck!

phatsat67 wrote: FamilyManCCF wrote: Cool Project and cool thread! I really like the videos. Boat looks pretty complete. The platform does look like it is off a MasterCraft. Like the others suggested, I would remove it. If you want to restore it to period correct I wouldn't put one back on but if you are going to use the boat as a ski tug, I would look for teak platform. Very excited to see updates! Good luck! Just hang a rope ladder off the back. It will look all tree houseish and no holes in the boat!

Zach,
+1!!! I'm with you keeping it original! Swim platform?

63 Skier wrote: I think the swim platform should match the tower. Black anodized tower, go with black fiberglass platform. Chrome tower, go with teak platform. Also keep in mind teak is less likely to scuff up the tube.

Bwahahaha

I heard fiberglass works pretty well....

Hollywood wrote: Which platform makes a better tree bumper, fiberglass or teak?

Reading between the lines, looks like we need to find a set of extended towing mirrors for a Cadillac to put in Hollywood's stocking this year.

63 Skier wrote: I think the swim platform should match the tower. Black anodized tower, go with black fiberglass platform. Chrome tower, go with teak platform. Also keep in mind teak is less likely to scuff up the tube.

I was thinking that I would try to find either an orange tower or one that I could Piant orange. The platform will go based on what size orange underwater transom lights come in. Maybe I could just fiberglass over an old teak platform. I just need to make sure I save money in the budget for the subwoofers and surround sound.