1972 SN Promo Project

In the meantime, someone back me up on this carb kit. The number on the side of the carb is

1087 9636SA

which leads me to this:

First link

Fifth one down says model number 9636A, Mopar linkage, and electric choke. Pretty sure I don't have electric choke but its the closest choice. But that one is no longer available and links me to E-1400.

Scroll 3 down on this page and it suggests the 1400 is for "E-1400 PERFORMER SERIES CARBURETOR - 600 CFM
- STREET LEGAL, ELECTRIC CHOKE -
50-state street legal for all Chevrolet/GMC V8 engines, 1980 and earlier"

Second link


However, at the very bottom of the page is this kit.

KT-5281

I think the KT-5281 is the proper rebuild kit with the addition of two new floats.

FLT-100-94


Would everyone agree?

Get going on the hull while keeping an eye out for engine parts along the way.

I hope my optimistic tone hasn't been confused with being overzealous. HAHA. There is NO WAY that I'm going to tackle the engine, floor removal, and stringers all at once. What I'm doing now is coming up with a mental blueprint or gameplan for the next few years. A good portion of that gameplan is estimating finances. I certainly am going to do whatever it takes to get this boat in as close to showroom condition as my budget and skill set allow. The best part is.........there is no deadline. If it takes an extra 6 months to get something right then I'm only out the cost of beer (which is a good problem to have).

I know I'm looking at $1500-2000 for stringers. I know there's a possibility of $2k in engine parts. I know that I could spend 3x times that in the end. Right now my timeline is:

2017 - Stringer removal and replacement
2018 - Engine refurbishment (whatever that means)
2019 - Odds and ends back together and tested before Green Lake

I would LOVE for that timeline to be cut in half but I'm also prepared for it to get extended x2.

Now for the good stuff. I got the carb opened up today and here's what I found



Vid 17


How the He11 do I get that impellor out?

on the impeller, I have a couple really small wheel/bearing pullers we can try.

Frankenotter wrote: Tomorrow the engine comes out. Are there any measurements or considerations I need to take care of before removal?

Find a reference point that will position the engine, I used the 4 engine mount studs. Establish a "Datum Point" that you can use to measure to your four reference points. The inside of the transom on each side will work. Then lay a straight edge across the gunnels and measure down to the studs. Record these eight measurements and when you get ready to reinstall the engine you will be able to place it in the exact spot that it came from. You may want to make up an engine cradle to use instead of the wooden blocks that it probably has now.

TRBenj wrote: I would grab the measurement from the trans coupler to the back of the strut body... This will help when it comes time to tune your shaft length (and provide another good engine placement reference point).

Or from the coupling to the log as that is even more of a fixed point than the strut.

Strut bolt or anything rudder related

I don't think a rusty flywheel would bother me, as long as no cracks or warping and no badly worn or missing teeth. A rusty dampner might not function properly, but can be cleaned up. Might be worth replacing if any question on it.

Nice to see the helping hands, looks like you had a good day for it!

Chris,
I'm with David on the rust. The only thing I'd suggest is when you put it back together, anti-seize the splines on the trans input shaft.

relake wrote: Frankenotter wrote: When attempting the wetsanding process, does one use a power sander or only by hand? Orbital? Will the "wet" clog the orbital? I would only wet sand by hand (gives a more even finish w/o going too deep), use a sanding block if desired. In tight curved areas or where there are angles, a dowel rod wrapped with sandpaper can be used.

Chris,
I've had great success using a RO sander on the flat surfaces wet. You use a spray bottle of water in one hand and the sander in the other. Just like hand sanding, the water prevents the clogging of the abrasive disks. These micro mesh disks are great A common use for them is solid surface countertop which is very similar to gel. Note you can get them all the way to 1200 grit which is almost buffing!!! On corners where the RO can get aggressive, go by hand as Ray mentioned.

8122pbrainard wrote: Note you can get them all the way to 1200 grit which is almost buffing!!!

Pete, Did I do something wrong??
I only find them down to 1500 grit on this link. (1500 would work if you had the time)

I know that using the electric RO sander has been mentioned it before, but I am not a fan.     I tried it with a Early Bronco I was working on a couple of years ago, and the mess/hazard made the ROI not work for me.    I ruined a sander in half of a job, and was constantly worried about the electrocution hazard.   Yes, it can be done, but I seriously question the safety of it.     There is no way to keep the water and sanding sludge out of the motor and bearings.     If you are going to machine sand, I would suggest that there are air tools made for this purpose, and after ruining an electric sander, I would have been money ahead to try the air version.   just my .02, but I would hate to see an accident.     Nice progress so far!    My flywheel was as rusty if not worse than yours.   I did scuff and paint it before I put it back in, but that was only to try and prevent further corrosion. I don't think the rust hurts anything.

GFCI's are required in our electrical code, and I have them in the garage where I work, but they are cheap at best, and prone to failure.   I question using them to protect you while doing something that puts you directly in harms way... yes I've done it based on the recommendations of this forum, but I would buy the proper tool next time instead of taking the risk, The right tool doesn't cost much compared to the price of an emergency room visit, or a funeral.
even more to my point, the right tool doesn't cost more than the two sanders I had to buy (one to start the project, and one to replace the one I broke in the process)
While I won't stand in your way if you choose to use the electric, I think it is good to provide an alternative opinion when safety is a concern.

Mirka® DEROS - the new electric random orbital sander. The first electric machine ever with a brushless motor and no external power supply.

I feel that you will spend more time and effort trying to work around the letters than it is worth. Yours are simple letters to have a mask built for and repaint them after you wet sand and buff the sides.   Another thing, you will be time ahead if you flip the boat over to redo the bottom. Otherwise your arms are going to look like Hercules when you are done. I would start with 320 or 400 on the black and just sand until the orange starts to come thru then switch to 800 and 1200. Buff after that. Be prepared, as this is no minor task
Review the stringer articles that have been written on CCF as you can really get in trouble if you don't get things back to stock dimensions. Others may have had success doing it different ways, this is only one suggestion. Sure others will chime in also. Good luck.. Duane