Cutlass Bearing replacement

Ok guys, I just called my local "boat shop" as I have been thinking of having my cutlass bearing replaced, and alignment checked...not that it really needed it, but again, this is one of those parts I have NO IDEA how many hours are on it and it's probably original to my 93 SN and I'd like for my peace of mind, to have a new cutlass bearing installed.

So, one shop told me the job to remove shaft, install new cutlass bearing and align shaft would be $600!!!!   OUCH.

So....what I was wondering if any of my "Northern WI" brethren on here would be willing/able to do it for me this coming spring, when I bring the boat up north? I don't feel I have the experience or necessary tooling to do it, so thought I'd ask those of you who are MORE experienced at this procedure.

Thanks for any input.

Dan

You could check the health of the cutlass bearing by trying to push the shaft side to side & looking for any play.    Maybe even buy a dial indicator (pretty cheap) so you can measure any play.

If there isn't much play, then it is OK - don't replace it.

flyweed wrote: what about, when I spin my prop by hand the cutlass "squeaks" a little when the shaft rotates??

The squeak is probably because the bearing is dry, squirt a little water on the shaft so it will run down thru the cutlass bearing, then spin it.

It will turn much easier when wet and won't squeak.

I'd just do what SN Obsessed suggested and move it up, down, sideways by hand. A little movement is ok/good and a lot of slop not so good. It's kinda a "feel" type of thing as far as what's too much movement

.005 inches of clearance is a good number for the clearance on a 1 inch shaft with a new bearing if you really want to measure it.


this thread has some good information in it.

Oh, I'd give him a GOOD swervy tube ride, followed by a good 12 pack of beer!! :)

yeah, I know what a dial indicator is....but mine doesn't have all those pipes and clamps with it..so I'll have to rig something up to hold it.

skutsch wrote: That tool will set you back $360 plus shipping...

Yup plus all the reports I hear, it only works about 30% of the time. You are pressing on the thin wall of the bearing which is brass and .050" thick. If the bearing is tight in the strut, the "blades" of the tool mushroom the brass sticking it real good in the strut and you end up removing the shaft (or strut) to cut the bearing out!!

There's a thread here for a puller that you can make for about $10 worth of parts from Home Depot. I spent a few days trying to cut my old cutlass out with a hack saw and punch. I finally made the puller and it came out in about an hour.

Chris,
You must have been doing something wrong for it to take that long. How about some details on your struggle with the cutlass.

Chris,
A recip saw (sawsall) Works better. Eric always said he would always cut up so if he did cut into the strut, a cut into the web wouldn't matter.

I think this is the way to go. No cutting or swearing.