Start of stringer repair

Tons of info for stringer repair in the archives. Boat will need to be totally gutted and supported properly. HUGE job, good luck.

Just starting my 76 ski tique floor job UGH!

two words:
Tyvek Suit

As with everybody that takes on one of these, I'm hopeful for just a floor, but preparing myself for a stringer job too. I know it's a nightmare but I have a freshly rebuilt 302-v4, new dual taper shaft new prop etc. I have to finish her.
Wish me luck I'm going in!

Jaxboater wrote: Yeah, im buying the tools now. then taking the floor up.   1st question, i have to take boat off trailer and support it with those arm looking things?    YES i am a novice when it comes to boat work. im more into engines.

Take this as helpful advice.   Sounds like you are getting in over your head. Find someone who has done this kind of work and look over their shoulder so you can get a hang of it. So many important steps that if not properly performed will lead to disaster. Stringers are a huge undertaking. If not installed properly then all you work is in vane.   Just trying to help you.    Duane

baitkiller wrote: two words: Tyvek Suit

VERY TRUE!! Also, respirator, diamond cutting wheel and wire brush for grinder, shop vac with a pre filter, and a lot of patience. It's not fun but it does feel good and rewarding once you're done!

Harry,
I'd say you came across a stringer thread where the trailer was pulled so it could be worked on and or painted. Actually I feel the trailer is the best place for the boat. It gives you a start of how the hull should sit. I suggest blocking the trailer so it's not sitting on the springs and moving. You may even want to remove the wheels so it sits closed to the floor. Then you start measuring and checking level of the boat. A 79 Tique has a pretty decent thick hull that may not even need extra support but if it has a tendency to twist, a couple extra supports at the chine will not hurt. Keep the reports and questions coming in and do post pictures.

Yes on rough cutting up the sole. Then when you get close to the hull, a diamond (cheap) works great in a 4" angle grinder.

As many have said it is a lot of work. Lot of bending over in the bildge and fiberglass dust. When I did my stringers I did one at a time and cut the top off and pried the wet wood out easily. After cleaning area up real well I was able to glue new stringer in place and go over with 4 layers of glass. This will save you some work with stringer location. Just need pay close attention to height. A flap sanding disk for grinder works wonders in prepping out the area for glass layups. A good shopvac with the vacuum bag and good filter for the dust. Those bags can hold like 5lbs dust without clogging filter. 23fishnautique

jblocal wrote: When I did my stringers I did one at a time and cut the top off and pried the wet wood out easily. After cleaning area up real well I was able to glue new stringer in place and go over with 4 layers of glass.

My only concern with leaving the original stringer glass in place is getting a good bond with the new. The old glass needs to be mechanically ground down to remove the surface resin getting down to glass. This is especially true with any original bilge coating. It must be removed. I also feel grinding the insides of the old stringer glass is also next to impossible.

Harry,
You shouldn't need the primer bulb if you hooked up the temporary tank before the fuel pump.
I wouldn't worry too much about fuel in the carb. Stabil the gas and run the engine for several minutes.
Are we ever going to see some pictures of the project?

Harry,
Do you have the hose hooked up in the proper direction so the arrow on the primer bulb faces the engine? When you squeeze the bulb do you get gas out the hose?

cannot figure where to hook the hose up to. that clear line just goes up to the air breather on top of engine. i did remove the larger one "metal tube" hooked up fuel to that and it started but it kept bubbling where the metal hose went then stopped.

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