"Blown" Ford 351

Let's get some pressure on that patch and see how it and the rest of the engine are doing

Sent you a PM...

William777 wrote:              There is a section of gasket missing in the same spot on the timing cover which could explain the water in the sump.

I don’t see the evidence of how you suspect the Water got in the Oil? That big external hole wouldn’t do it, obviously.

Interesting project but I still think the block is junk- Water is coming in from skmewhere that hasn’t been addressed yet... should have filled it with concrete!

I'm sure he's not going to run it that long and hopefully not under a heavy load,he should be fine. It's antifreeze that will tear up bearings

Carb likely flooding and timing or firing order off - keep the fire extinguisher handy and try not to die but cranking it over again will usually put out the fire. The flame arrestor wont hurt either.

Tim's comments about concrete are not an insult. He is telling you what many racers do with very high performance blocks.   My cousin is a drag racer with National records, When he built his stroked 454 for his Motor Home he installed Block Rock in the lower part of the block exactly as Tim is telling you to do.
The 496 he built that is making well over 600 pounds of torque and is used in the Motor Home which he also tows with, it is still plugging along just fine 20 years later with the block rock in it.   Some racers believe it adds structure and eliminates some flex in the cylinder walls.
I do not know how much you could use, there is a limit, cooling is certainly needed around your cylinders but most of the heat is created right up top not in the lower bore.
A boat with an unlimited supply of cool water supply could probably run fine with more block rock than any other application so Tim was giving you an option that very well might work. Now that your patch is in there you could fill with block rock and it wont leak out!   The down side, Every shop I knew of that installed that stuff did it on an engine stand where they could flow it in to one bank at a time and tilt the block so it flowed out level to the cylinder heads and cured. Then they do the other side..   Can't do that in the boat too easy and the heads would have to be off. Might be able to flow it in through the Freeze Plug holes for your purpose.   Tilt the entire trailer if you have to.
I hope your patch works as is, that would be pretty cool but the odds are pretty high against it. A lot of words here but needed as Tim helps many people many times in this forum with solid good advice.   

I learned something new as well. I never heard of the stuff. I wonder how hot they let them run?

Riley wrote: I wonder how hot they let them run?

Did you read the circle track racers testimonial???

Duane in Indy wrote: Riley wrote: I wonder how hot they let them run? Did you read the circle track racers testimonial???

Duane,
I want you to take that beautiful engine you built, Hard Blok it, run the boat as if you are on a circle track for a summer and then get back to us with results.   

It does sound like it has potential for a repair for some cracked blocks.

Duane in Indy wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Duane,I want you to take that beautiful engine you built, Hard Blok it, run the boat as if you are on a circle track for a summer and then get back to us with results.    Pete, in your old age you have mistaken me for KEN    He is the only one that does emperical testing here

No Duane. Ken hasn't commented on the Hard Blok. You were the one that brought up the testimonials so I feel you can do the testing on your engine.

I have never used the block rock in an engine I built but I have seen several being assembled.   Heat is created in the combustion chamber and that area is still open to cooling. The lower cylinder area is what would be filled with the block rock or hard blok.
We all know this old 351W is not a racer and the only reason to consider hard blok would be a band aid in this case to plug the leaks and it might work.   As stated a boat has an unlimited supply of cool water so it can stay cool much easier than a automobile.
I think most blocks that crack from freezing crack about midway up the block and I don't know if you could fill the block that high safely.

Just think of it as extra ballast.

Set up a shelf spanning the gunnel so you have a handy place to set tools. Also, a step ladder might be kinder on your legs than stepping up on the trailer 100s of times.

Good luck, hope it needs gaskets only.

Time for more face cream and or Preparation H!!