"Blown" Ford 351

William get your self the book Rebuilding Ford small block by Tom Monroe it will help you out a lot.

Good luck building it out. I"m sure you can do it.

It's a little hard to tell with it all wrapped in plastic, but from what I can see,the crankshaft looks like an older one for a 2 pc rear main seal which is what your old engine had too.

Ford never made a forged crank for the 351, so unless you got some kind of aftermarket crank it's about like any other 351W crank

The blocks up till about 74 or so are said to be stronger

With everyone here I bet you'll have that thing running in no time at all. Keep it up!

Also, to remove the engine, should I just remove the bell housing bolts and lift just the block? Or, remove the bolts from the stringers and lift the whole thing? Or, leave the mounts in the boat and remove the engine from them? I'm concerned about removing the bolts from the stringers due to the age of the boat. As in, when I replace them, will the seating be as secure as if I left them in place? Thanks William

Thanks and do I have the prop shaft disconnected by removing those four bolts? it didn't separate at all when I removed them.

The crankshafts look identical? The one on the right came with the new block. The timing chain on the right is from the guy who sold me the block. The left one is from my boat. The right one looks sturdier? Looks like it has a double row of teeth. I have never removed pistons from an engine, nor have I ever even seen inside the bottom end of an engine. Did those things today. I'm enjoying things so far. Combining and reassembly will start next week. Thanks for any input.

A couple of things Bill

I don't know see you ever mentioned whether that new crankshaft was reverse rotation or normal rotation.

If you look at the picture below you'll see where the wick lines are on the crankshaft where the rear main seal rides. The picture is a reverse rotation crank.

You can compare the wick lines on your 2 crankshafts to see if they're both the same.

If the new one is normal rotation and you use it in your RR setup you'll have a pretty healthy oil leak.



Also the timing set with the shiny aluminum hub and the nylon coated teeth should be in a landfill somewhere

The nylon coating eventually chips off and you then have timing issues

It's been a while. I havent given up. I have the new block bottom end rebuilt in the boat. As I'm reattaching the transmission before doing the top end, I think I've hit a snag. I did not note the way this ?pressure plate? goes on the flywheel. The magnet on the wheel.creates a gap between the wheel and the plate. I don't remember there being a gap. Should there be one? Do I have something backwards? Thanks a lot. William

Thanks for the link. So I have the parts correctly orientated except for spacers?

And, the magnet is a round plastic disc attached directly to the flywheel.

The magnet must have just mysteriously stuck itself there, you don't need or want it there or have any use for it there.

Like I said in the previous post, it looks like you could flip the plate over, give it a try but get rid of the magnet.

In your post back at 4:44 today, in the second picture it looks like some of the teeth on the ring gear are pretty worn where the starter pinion engages them. Maybe it's just the picture or maybe it's a good time to replace the ring gear.

By the way, I hope we don't get talking about moisturizing facial cream again

The latest adventure in Cary's Boatyard involves the starter, The original one was seized but I took it apart and was able to get it going. Used it to start the engine at the beginning of the saga. May have just came up with my boats name, Saga, Anyway a friend who knows about these things told me that even though I got it to work, I should toss it and buy a new one. So I did. But. I bought the wrong one. A DBElectrical SFD0061. So as I was trying to install this beauty, I noticed that the depth of the nose end of the starter was not going in far enough to reach the teeth on the flywheel. So in my genius mind. I suspected I put the flywheel on backwards. So I took un-hitched the transmission and removed the screws that hold it to the stringers and removed the flywheel only to see that I had it in properly to begin with. I'm having a great time. So. now I'm under the impression I need to plunk down 165 bucks and get an ARCO 70201? Can someone confirm this? Anyone need a cheap SFD0061? Those aren't tears. they are not!

Well you have it figured out right.

The SFD0061 has a 2 inch nose on it and you need one of the same style with a 2 3/8 inch nose to mesh with the ring gear

The Arco 70201 is a different style (PMGR) starter and has a 2 inch nose but it fits like the old style 2 3/8 and will spin the engine the right way. and it will mesh right due to the different style.