Stainless Steel Manifolds

Mark it was the chrome, it's always good for more speed just because it looks good.

Like I said, I put on a new fuel pump and a K&N, I dont know which one did it, but it made it much faster in the midrange, not much at the top if any at all, it picked about 100rpm!

If jbears boat goes 50mph, I still dont think that will move his hair...   

I can only add that my boat does similar, instant 2.9-3k when I nail it to rabbit, it launches hard and holds that rpm to somewhere between 17-20 mph then seems to grab more firmly as rpms climb from there with speed more linearly. mine is 1:1; Its done that since I put the OJ 4 on it. Doesn't do it with the federal, POS acme I tried, nor so much with the OJ-3.

Engine goes straight to the torque peak and when it grabsfirm, the boat just slings out of the hole like a banshee instead of the rpms dropping when the slip fades.

Engine is nothing special (yet) other than a good state of tune, hot ignition and mapped advance curve.



I suspect the 1.23 is a superior, more efficient system because of the lower tip speed, potentially less parasytic losses above 40 mph.

Mark, make sure you put your hair in a ponytail so I can look back thru my mirror and still see around you to see them. I'll bet if jbear tried to pull his hair back, he'd have to use a bungy cord. I'm gonna grow a skullet. Similar to the mullet, but only with no hair on top and long hair all around, i.e,. Hulk Hogan. I reak of jealosy.      

I'm putting a power glide in my next boat. Gear heads and old guys know what that is. Heck '79, you of all people know that the instaneous slip of the prop is about as close as you could get to simulating a stall converter, but even better without the sudden bang. It's also what allows a boat to run some extra cam without demonstrating the typical low-end torque loss seen in a car and necessitating lower gear ratios. I'm still studying the holeshot and speed issues of the 1.23 vs 1:1.      

I cannot wait to see you guy's together at GL this summer!!

TRBenj wrote: As for performance, I get an instant 3200 RPM out of the hole so I should see some gain there.

didn't know thay made stall converters for boats, where did you get that at?


You are full of so much sh*t half the time.

he's out sorcing the polishing and coating anyway wouldn't see why he couldn't have then jet-hot coated might be a little more after shipping cost are added, then your at the polished price anyway so you might as well buy them polished, your spending 1400.00 already what's another 300.00 for the marginal increase in performance. Once I looked at the comparison on their website, the gains don't kick in until the higher RPM range anyway and there's very little difference from idle to 3500 rpm which is the range you'll run the most. Again they look great but to me not worth the cash layout.

the only thing about jet-hot coating is it has to be on the outside and inside for it to work right. With the jacket it might not coat the runners very well and cause problems. With headers it's not that big of a deal but with the jacket it might trap an air pocket when they dip them and not coat inside the jacketed area as well as it needs to be. Guess if the person dipping it rotated while in the tank to makesure all of the air is out then it should be ok. diffently couldn't just drop then in the tank along because air would get traped unless it was under vaccum in a pressure vessel.

I pushed Alan to have them shipped uncoated as well and he would not do it. I could not cover the $300 for polished at the time so I went powdercoated. The first two-three inches of the header where it is not jacketed will just melt off but no big deal to me. You don't really notice them unless you bend over and look at it. I may take them off and try to polish just the header part and see if how it comes out. Hope that helps...

Thanks!

79, Ive got a call in to my coating guy, but I am hoping that the Jet-hot would cost about the same as powder would. The polished finish is a additional cost ($300) from Hi-Tek.

With the Jet-hot, I think I would be safer from heat discoloration, rust and corrosion than either the polished or powder finishes.

Im not sure what grade of stainless Hi-Tek uses. It does say on their website that manifolds are bead blasted to prevent rusting at the welds.

87, I understand their position. Hopefully Hi-tek will understand that I dont want them bare because Im being cheap. These manifolds are very expensive, and I want the best coating for them- Im not convinced powder is the way to go.

It seems silly to pay extra for the powder since it will only be removed when I get them. Ill get them bare either way!

Again, perhaps Hi-tek can get them Jet-hot coated for me at a reasonable price. That could be a good solution for everyone.

87, thats what I was afraid of. I just sent Allen/Carolyn an email, so hopefully we can work something out. I have a great local guy who does all sorts of coatings (powder, jet-hot, etc) that I would love to do the work, as his work is very good and is reasonably priced. I supposed if Hi-Tek can get them coated before sending them, that would be an acceptable solution.

Although I can understand their position, it doesnt make sense to incur the extra expense of PC, since it will only cost me extra to have it stripped.

Doc, I guess Ill have to speak to Allen directly. If they dont offer jet-hot coating, then I definitely want them bare. Theres no sense in having them powdercoated since I would just be stripping it off (at an extra cost). No sense in polishing either, since the jet-hot will just cover it up.

Not sure if you guys are familiar with jet-hot or not. Its a metallic-ceramic coating commonly used on headers. Its good up to 1300 degrees, and shines like chrome.

87 ; a note from Allens BOSS               Billy,
We do not send our manifolds away to our customers NOT powder coated or
polished as we did that once as the customer wanted to polish them his
self and he showed his friends before he had them polished which Allen
had told him not to as Allen has to flapped disc the manifolds specially
to get the manifolds polished, so we now have this policy of either
powder coated or polished.
Hope this answers your question.
Looking forward to hearing from you.

Regards,
Carolyn:

Talked to Allen again tonite,he says the same,the port side seems to flow more than starboard,his fix,add a restriction to the port hose,on his boat he used a S/S "nut" to solve the problem,any thing to slow down or balance the two.......

Boat dr...good talking with you the other day. Alan called me but I missed his call and have not had a chance to call him back but I will next week. When I get to work he is asleep and when I am leaving work he is waking up but I'll catch up with him.

Update...I spoke with Karen Dougherty (Vince's Wife) at DIM today about my header sitaution and the starboard side being hotter than the other. She first told me to contact Vince on Monday but she told me that about 6 months ago she and Vince were on a call with PCM about installing a PSS shaft seal on a Ski Nautique 351W in which you add a water line that bleeds off of the main water line that supplies water to the exhaust manifolds. PCM told them to only tap into the water line going to the exhaust manifolds on the Port side of the engine because there is more water supply on that side of the engine due to the way it is designed. PCM stated there is less water on the Starboard side already so if you tap into that water line going to the exhaust manifold you will make the starboard side even hotter. I found that to be very interesting. She told me to contact Vince next week as he may have more details but it sure sounds like what she said could be fact because that is what my engine is doing. It sure seems like I have heard this same thing before along time ago but I can't remember where I heard it. Talk to you soon.

Thanks!