83 New Stringers & Floor

KENO wrote: jterr wrote: Question- What is kcel for floor replacement, might be spelled wrong?? Probably klegecell. If you google it, you'll get a lot of info

Then again maybe not,

Sounds like Tim found the stuff you're referring to

Found another problem as I was thinking of lifting boat off trailer. The rear lift eye is just about rusted away. I can't tell what it looks like and is their a fix or just cover hole??
Anyone got a picture of what it should look like??

8122pbrainard wrote: John, The lifting ring bracketry will need rebuilding before you do any lifting. You can do it now before the stringers if you really want to get the hull off the trailer. Have you looked at the forward ring bracket? That too is a concern especially since some of it is hidden in the glass at the stem. Why do you want to get it off the trailer? If you want to get it lower, remove the wheels of the trailer.

Understood. Where can you find that bracket, I saw some eyelets on line? I assume those 2 wood pieces are next to the hull at top???

John,
As Duane mentions, you'll need to get some angle. The threaded rod at a good hardware store, big box or on line at McMaster.

jterr wrote: Front looks ok, but may replace when I start the rear. Post those pics if you would and will compare. Also you said the bracket is glassed in, but it looks as there may bolts sticking out... I'll get under there and look closer. I had a thought that if I were not going to use it for lifting could I just replace the Eye and wood and not even use the bracket. Not planning on leaving in water..

Fix it right. Does not take that long or that much effort. Lift rings are just that To Lift.
How about the next guy that does not know that it is just ornamental???

Pics of front

Duane in Indy wrote: How about the next guy that does not know that it is just ornamental???

You end up with a nice hole in the aft deck and possibly someone injured!!!

jterr wrote: I know I'm nowhere ready to put stringers back in. I was wondering can Oak be used as a stringer? Have alot and my neighbor just got a saw mill....

I know I'm very late chiming in here, but for the benefit of others as well, NO, DO NOT use any type of oak.   

The various types of oak, walnut, pecan, ash, and so on are what is known as an 'open cell' or open grain wood. While usually very hard and dense woods, they are generally markedly heavier and the open cells of the wood will trap any moisture that can only dry out if it exposed to open air. That's pretty much the case with about any wood, but the open cells multiply the problem and accelerate the rotting process, which is why the lighter, closed cell woods generally do much better for applications like this.
There are a few closed cell woods that also have a natural resistance to rot as well, some better than others. One of the best is of course redwood, followed by cedar and Doug fir to name a few. In the case of stringers though, you're looking for the sweet spot - rot resistance and strength but in as light of material as possible. While redwood is the lightest and best by far with rot, it also has the weakest grain strength of the 3, followed very closely by the cedar. The fir is actually much one of the most dense "soft" woods there is which makes it ideal because it retains high grain strength while still being a closed cell and having natural rot resistance.

Duane in Indy wrote: jterr wrote: Understood. Where can you find that bracket, I saw some eyelets on line? I assume those 2 wood pieces are next to the hull at top??? You won't find them. The angle iron piece is glassed into the transom. The lifting part is no more than a piece of all thread. 5/8-11   IIRC.   Plywood is against the deck on the inside. The lift ring threads onto the all thread. As Pete said,   check the front lift pieces also. They are most likely shot also. Most of the damage to them maybe under the floor and not visible. I have detailed shots of the front but not the back.

It looks as though the bracket/angle iron(I got it out what was left) was at top of that section. Do I need to cut the whole piece out from top to bottom??

gt40KS wrote: jterr wrote: I know I'm nowhere ready to put stringers back in. I was wondering can Oak be used as a stringer? Have alot and my neighbor just got a saw mill.... I know I'm very late chiming in here, but for the benefit of others as well, NO, DO NOT use any type of oak.    The various types of oak, walnut, pecan, ash, and so on are what is known as an 'open cell' or open grain wood. While usually very hard and dense woods, they are generally markedly heavier and the open cells of the wood will trap any moisture that can only dry out if it exposed to open air. That's pretty much the case with about any wood, but the open cells multiply the problem and accelerate the rotting process, which is why the lighter, closed cell woods generally do much better for applications like this. There are a few closed cell woods that also have a natural resistance to rot as well, some better than others. One of the best is of course redwood, followed by cedar and Doug fir to name a few. .

Joe,
I disagree with your thoughts about open grain woods especially White Oak. It is the most sought after wood for boat building and has been used for many years due to it's strength but more so its rot resistance. Resistance has nothing to do with open or closed grain. You are also forgetting the recommended CPES step!! BTW, do you know what type of wood was used to build the USS Constitution (Old Ironsides)?

Well I'm down to the bottom of the thick wood at top and it is all rotted. Tomorrow will drill down lower and see if any good wood left...

That would be the best thing to do I think..My neighbor has alot of Galvanized angle and threaded rod to make a strong metal part then use the Coosa composite and glass..

jterr wrote: That "wood" be the best thing to do I think....

???
John,
I don't understand what you're thinking.

well that didn't work, I think you got it..LOL

One more thing why I now think this boat has been under water. When I went to finish cutting out the section for the rear hanging eyelet, about a inch or so down I hit water.
Decided to make a cut at bottom and probably got a quart of water out of that cavity.
The only way for it to get in would be at the top which is tight under the top deck-Sunk..
At least I don't have to replace the outside skin, but most likely all the wood mounting places on transom.

Before I start cutting everything out of transom is there a easy way to check the wood areas covered in glass without just cutting them out??