1993 Ski Nautique parts

Dan - I'm not intimidated, just have not had the time. This winter will provide the time (I hope). Curious to know what type of grounding block you used? I've pulled off my dashboard plenty of times so there is no fear in the job, but I'd like to stand on the shoulders of giants like yourself who have done the job before and can tell me what worked for you.

Thanks!
Kevin

No rust involved. I have cut open 3 now. The 69 had sheath damage and would freeze in the winter so I changed it, it was the original with no other problems. The 95 went bad at 19 years , took both hands to turn, lube inside was dried out and gummy. Third was another inboards that was about 22 years old, same issue and cause as the 95.

we had a nice weekend, warm enough to work on the boat anyway.
Since my last post, and no I have not changes the steering cable yet. (I'll put it on a trailer to do that work).

I finally picked up my new exhaust manifold gaskets and put them on,
Rotated the impeller pump (thanks for all the other posts in general topic that helped me right my wrong.

since I'm sharing a battery with my other boat, back and forth some times I would not get the motor to fire, not even with a little gas persuasion :-). There is a small white 14 gauge wire with my positive terminal cable. this wire had a loop on it and sometimes the motor would fire sometimes nothing. while replacing the battery, I broke off the end loop of the white wire (very corroded... replaced the loop and reattached to the battery terminal. for kicks I hit the ignition and the motor fired up without spiking the carb. ran it for about 10 minutes and shut it off, restarted and the same thing... now she will start and run with the key alone-- all good there. She runs cool, and I can throttle up slowly up to 4k without a stall. quick throttle will stall the motor.

New issue, idles at 1200 RPM and I cannot seem to slow her down, is this just a sign that it needs a rebuild or do you think the throttle cable needs an adjustment?

I took it for a ride in the bay and aside from a very tight steering wheel, it just idles way to fast to maneuver the boat..

fixed list:
freed the stuck motor
starter
impeller
fuel pump
exhaust manifold gaskets
plugs
white + lead wire loop

Disconnect the throttle cable at the carb, usually it's a spring loaded snap connector, and see if it is/was the throttle assy holding it open. If it now idles down with it disconnected then that connector can be adjusted on the cable so that it just slides back on without moving the carb linkage. As to the gauges - disconnect the wire on the sender and with the key on powering the gauges touch that wire from the sender to ground and see it the gauge pegs. If it does then it's the sender or its ground. Do not use teflon tape etc to try to seal the sender that can mess with the ground. If that don't work you'll have to dig deeper- i.e. Voltage to the gauge, wire between sender and gauge etc.

if you haven't done it yet...I HIGHLY suggest pulling the dash, and running heavier gauge hot and ground wires from engine compartment to dash..then install a ground block behind your dash, clean the grounds on all the gauges, ignition, etc, and installed heavier wire. I took the time last season to do this, and my dash cluster couldn't be happier. Everything works as it should.

Took the SN out on our first slow/fast water run. with the carb rebuilt, she is running great.

last few items to fix
steering cable
carpet
gas gauge sending unit...

Teleflex steering cable: tel-SS14120 "Amazon" (probably could do a 19' rather than a 20')

KRoundy wrote: flyweed wrote: a ground block behind your dash, clean the grounds on all the gauges, ignition, etc, Hot and ground wires? I've heard about doing the grounding wire thing with a ground block, but what do you do with the hot wire?

Kevin,
The terminal blocks are used to eliminate the daisy chaining. Adding the heavier ground and hot wiring eliminates the big voltage drop caused by the light factory wire. Old corroded and loose connections also cause voltage drop.

Pretty common (more common) for the + side to be beefed up than the grounds in my experience... both help.

You have to be just a little more thoughtful with the positive bus bar/block.

With the ground block, you run a new ground wire from the engine block to your new ground bus under the dash. Then just tie all of your ground wires to that.

With the positive side, you just have to make sure you don't corrupt the original switching logic. You don't want to accidentally have something be on all the time.
-The new positive wire replaces or piggybacks on the ignition breaker button
-Then the output side of your ignition breaker button goes to the positive bus
-Then you run wires to the INPUT side of all the other breaker switches, and the INPUT side of the key switch.

If you want to go crazy, you could do a switched positive (purple/ignition) bus bar, that goes from the output side of the key, to the input side or all the gauges etc.

Thanks. I brought it home and had it flipped over on the dining room table for a few weeks. I verified everything was correct by applying power with a little battery charger.

Breaker trip has nothing to do with how many cold cranking amp capacity your battery has.

My guess is you have a short & your old worn out battery droops so much it doesn't trip breaker.

Breaker is doing its job.

I was afraid someone would say that, UHG!!!

Now if I were desertskier, I would have all my wiring nice and neat to trouble shoot everything, This boat has come a long way from when I got her, I'll have to try and figure out where to start,

still have a few items to address, hope to wrap this project up in the next two weekends and have her ready for Summer.

I'll post pictures, when she is all cleaned up, she was so messy didn't want to distract from what the project is all about.

Interesting thought on the battery being bad., I'll put it on my other boat (has two batteries) and try it.
As far as the Everlast, I have had great luck with them in my Monterey, I had to replace a 2007 battery this year, and my other 2014 is in the SN now. I think the key to longevity in the Monterey is the battery selector switch, I always shut it off when I'm not in the water. Planning to run duel batteries in the SN once I figure out the best location for the switch and new battery box.

Time to study the wiring diagram. The business end of the start circuit (batt to starter via solenoid) doesn’t go through the breaker.