1963 Correct Craft Atom Skier |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Here you go- ebay link
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Thanks. And no It has been to cold to get the engine running. Spring is coming. |
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Another question. The chrome is in good shape but a few pieces have some tiny bumps. Is there any way to smooth them out without re-chroming?
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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I had a warm day so I took a closer look at the transom. ( See photos) I applied some paint stripper and It appears the PO had put some sort of filler under the water line.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
The PO fiber glassed the bottom. I'm sorry to say that the method does not have a good track record. One layer of glass does not have the strength to hold loose seams together so if there's any movement the glass fractures allowing water to enter. The worst long term is glassing rots the wood at an accelerated pace. Even without any fracturing of the glass allowing water in from the outside, a boats bilge is wet so water enters from the inside keeping the wood damp. Some call glassing "the kiss of death" for a wood boat. The glassing explains why all the hardware was removed from the bottom of the boat. Again, what do you know about the PO and his wood boat knowledge? |
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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I didn't know the previous owner. ( possibly deceased now) I purchased the boat from someone who found it in a barn. I will strip the rest of the bottom to see how much has been covered with filler. In the meantime I have been working on the engine cover,
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7953 |
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It's still a nice boat. Probably a much bigger project than you realized, but all the hardware being removed from the bottom is an indication that someone knew the bottom needed to be replaced. You can patch it up and put all the hardware back on so you can use it for the short term. It's still a nice boat worthy of restoration as its pretty complete and original The engine cover looks great!.
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Thanks. And yes, it's turning out to be a much larger project than expected. However, I'm in it for the long haul. Appreciate your informative comments.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
I agree with Bruce. Patch the area you ground down at the transom and run the boat. In the future it will need a new bottom. |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7953 |
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Here's a link for new step pads. The seller is a CCF member. I bought a set of these a few months ago and they are excellent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Correct-Craft-Step-Pads-Vintage-style-includes-4-pads/182749692362?hash=item2a8cbb01ca:g:zesAAOSwbtVZSz2t&vxp=mtr |
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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OK. Thank you very much.
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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I purchased the step pads. Look great.
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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I'm getting ready to pull the engine, however I am having trouble knowing how to remove the exhaust hoses. The rear hose clamps are inaccessible. Any ideas on removing and replacing? |
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shierh
Gold Member Joined: April-29-2015 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 605 |
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cut them
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don, As the engine is being raised, pull the hose off the exhaust elbows. |
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Thanks. Before I received your post I cut them off. I figured they had to be replaced anyway. Would your advice work for replacing the new hoses?
Also, when I removed the hoses I noticed the copper exhaust tubes that extend through the stern are loose. What is the proper way to replace these to keep them from leaking? |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don, Yes, when the time comes to install the engine, start the hoses on the elbows before the engine is fully in place. It works great since you are using the weight of the engine getting the hose on. Look in your parts box. You should have round trim rings for each copper exhaust tube. The inner inside ID of the rings will be beveled. The bevel is there for packing just like you use for prop shaft and rudder packing. As the ring is screwed to the transom, the packing is compressed around the copper. The method is a carry over from when the exhaust was hard piped with copper all the way from the engine through the transom. The copper moves in the packing when the heat causes the pipe to grow. Since you have the rubber, you can just use 4200 to seal under and around the trim rings and pipes. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
Have you given anymore thought to what you will be doing with the boat since you're pulling the engine? Flipping the hull for a bottom job? Temporary CPES at the keel? Or just some engine work? If you don't have the trim rings for the exhaust pipes, give Jim a call with the OD of the copper. |
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Thanks for the info. I found the rings, and noticed when I pulled the copper tube out, there were remnants of the packing.
When I get the engine out I plan to flip the boat (not sure how) and see how much of the bottom is fiberglass. Also, when I order new exhaust tubes is there a particular type of rubber that should be used? And, I plan to replace the water hoses on the engine. Are these hoses preformed or can I use flexible hose? |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
For exhaust hose, there is a marine specific hose. You will want the plain non corrugated type. Someone will be along who shopped and bought some recently since I have not in awhile. It can be rather "pricy"! An alternate is to use some copper tubing for the bulk of the distance and then just short sections of rubber to make the connections at the engine and the copper through the transom. I took a look at the engine pictures again and it doesn't look like any pre formed hose was used so, just use plain "radiator" hose. On the suction side of the RWP (raw water pump) I recommend using wire reinforced to prevent the hose from collapsing due to the negative pressure. The bare hull is pretty light so, get a few friends over and roll it over on some old rubber tires or four people can probably lift it |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21169 |
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Is this an originality thing? If not, corrugated is superior in all respects and priced similarly to the smooth wall. I’d be sure to use reinforced at a minimum, but the corrugated holds shape better. |
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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A neighbor helped me pull the engine and turn the boat over. It appears the fiberglass is only on part of the bottom.
Attached some photos. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
Looks like you have some more work to do. I recommend replacing the bad wood with wood rather that patching with glass and epoxy or polyester. You have the hull flipped so a proper fix will be relatively easy. |
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5778 |
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easy is a relative term Pete. Reality is once the bottom is off the monster will rear it's ugly head and it will need some frame/transom/chine/stem attention. That's why the previous owner stopped where they did. Good thing going for you is that this actually is about the simplest and least expensive wood boat there is to have to fix so don't get discouraged, do it right from here on and it will last another 60 years. I haven't said much because Pete has you covered but I'm always willing give advice if you need it. Pm me anytime. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Alan, Yes, it sure is a relative term! But, I did prep Don some time back to be prepared for reality!
Thanks for helping. |
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5778 |
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I think the topside plywood will be coming off too because of frame and stem rot. Still not the end of the world and the boat is worth saving, it's just gonna take a little longer. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
Looking at the new pictures, I feel the mystery of why the bottom was glassed has been solved. Looks like there was a prop, strut and shaft hit that bent the strut to starboard causing the prop to gouge the hull. The quick and dirty "repair" was then filling and glassing!! I'd say that "repair" peeled off pretty easy didn't it!? I know of a glassed bottom that came off underway and the boat went down real fast!! Do a proper repair and as Alan mentioned it will be good for another 60 years! Alan mentions the topside ply needing removal due to potential stem and frame repair. I agree there may be a problem but don't be too hasty. Open up the bottom first to get a good look at the frame and the portion of the stem were the bottom ply is fastened then post some pictures. CC laminated their stems which are know to come apart and suck up the water. However, I haven't seen any screw popping at the stem that would defiantly indicate a stem problem so you may be OK? I've asked before about what you know about the previous owner and some history on the boat. Anything yet?? |
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NewOwner
Groupie Joined: November-16-2017 Location: MO Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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You are right about the fiberglass coming off easily. Big pieces. So, what you are saying is that I need to clean out all of those screw holes and remove the screws? ( from stem to Stearn) Wow! Is there a special tool to use? Also, I'm not sure what is meant by removing top side wood as well.
I haven't any information about the previous owner and do not know anything about how the damage occurred.. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
There's no special tool to remove all the screws. Clean them out with a pointed tool and then you can remove them with a drill driver. The "top side wood" is the plywood on the hull sides and some also refer to what's on the deck. Alan mentioned it since he (and I) are worried about what condition the stem and other frames like the transom frame are in. I suggested removing the ply bottom first to get a better look so that would be my first step. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don, In this picture, I just noticed the metal gusset at the transom frame and t looks like it screws into the inner keel. This is not original so I suspect at one time the bottom was separating from the transom. Transom frames are very prone to rot since the water in the bilge runs back and tends to stay there. You will need to investigate this spot. My Atom transom frame had significant rot in it. |
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