Couplings won't mate

We're wrapping up an engine transplant into this Tique and the couplings won't mate. We've had 2 prior engines in this boat without this problem, but with this recent Commander, the nut that holds the transmission coupling protrudes a bit more than usual and the key on the shaft coupling protrudes out just enough to hit the nut and not let the faces of the couplings touch. I've tried persuading the key to move back, but it won't budge. Anyone have any ideas short of taking the coupling apart and putting it back together so the key doesn't stick out past the shaft? The alignment is almost perfect, but you can get a .008 feeler gauge around the entire surface.

Gary S wrote: . Dremel tools are must have life saver.

Years ago, I always thought the Dremel was for the hobbyist. Not anymore!!! They aren't the best built consequently I'm on my 3rd one.

If you have an air compressor available then you can go to Horrible Freight and get a cheap air cutoff tool that will do the job
Years ago in the Die building business we would use a tool called a Dumore grinder. Like a Dremel but built to take it.   Then air tools came along and changed things.

Pete is correct, My Dremel tool gets more work with every job I do.
A Dremel with a cut off wheel will cut through that old keyway in about 30 seconds and your done.
The Dremel will spin at up to 30,000 RPM and if your cutting wheel comes apart it can bring real danger to your eyes. Wear eye protection and wrap up your project.
They can cut through a hardened bolt so nice you don't even have to clean up the treads to use the shortened bolt.

Bruce,
I suggest the EZ lock over the screw on that Gary posted. Yes, the HD has them!

8122pbrainard wrote: Bruce, Go for it!! Duane's suggestion is a good one but then you need to haul the compressor around.

Not really Pete.   I always use an "air hose" between the tool and the compressor. Really handy item to have. You need to join the modern world.

Bruce,
I think the cutoff wheels are the most used tool I put in the Dremel. I remember the years I fought with rusted or seized bolts. They zip right off with the cutoff.

Bruce,
Great! Next time you run into a rusted or seized nut/bolt, remember the Dremel.

[QUOTE=8122pbrainard] What do you think the pressure drop would be down at the boathouse for 1000 feet of 3/8" hose starting at 150PSI in the shop. /QUOTE]

Zero psi drop till you start the flow of air. Depends on cfm usage. (you knew that)

edit btw: you have added 5.73748174 gallons of air to the system with that much hose

Duane in Indy wrote: If I thought you were serious about this then I would send you a layout showing how to use a reserve tank at the boathouse and still be able to use your 1000ft. air hose Why only 15 amp service?? Surely that was not run 1000ft also. You will need to buy a VOM and check your voltage drop

Duane,
Ok, now you want me to go out and get a reserve tank too and I'm sure you would recommend an ASME rated one too! Running some pressure drop calculations, it looks like I could use the 3/8" hose and see about a 2 PSI drop. I could live with that but, the CFM is bad. Using a 13CFM, die grinder, looks like I'd be down there all day waiting for the reserve tank to refill.

Regarding the electric, it was run for lighting back in the 30's when electric was run to the house. (in laws house). A 10 amp load on the 12 gauge is about a 30 volt drop and that won't run the compressor.

I'm just going to take my Dremel down there!

BTW, I'm very familiar with reserve air tanks having laid out 600 HP of sequenced compressors in a 200.000 sq. ft. blow molding plastic injection plant. We installed 3, one in each corner of the plant. It works!

Hi Duane

This seems like the perfect place to say that you were so right the other day.

I'm sure you remember the conversation