Atom Skier

Is that the only place they usually stamped the ser# Pete? I never found any stamped number on our utility. Seller said it was a 1950 and the serial number on the grey engine supported that so I guess that's what I'll go with.

Finally took the boat out of storage after letting her dry out for about a year. Lots of rot from years of being left out in the elements. I have two sheets left on the bottom of the boat. If I could figure out how to upload the images from my phone I would have more. but here is where we are at so far. On the engine mounts I located this " 55C02" can anyone confirm if this is a HIN or serial number.

No progress has been made on that boat, however is it dry and safely stored indoors. The wife advised me I had to finish my other home projects before diving into another boat. Merry Christmas!

Wow what a great find
Ive been searching for a cc wood boat
any updates ?

Looking to start next week....Just truing to reconfigure the wife's garage so I can work in the heat....on that note, is it important to keep the wood at one constant temp in where winter?

Nice find and still with the original engine.

From what I found on my 50”s CC… frames and planking are Lauan   (Philippine Mahogany) loose name as it’s not a true mahogany you guys may now it as Light Red Meranti, my guess CC used it as its cheaper and would match the Philippine ply made of the same wood back then, easy way to spot it … look at the grain for a small fleck on some of it.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Brian,
Do you have plans to restore the Jr? If so, certainly keep us informed on the progress and the pictures coming. I highly recommend keeping it as original as possible. There are a few non original things a PO did like the white deck stripping but we can advise when you get to that point. The first thing I'd do is pull the engine and the tank so you can flip the hull. Then start unscrewing the ply skins so you can go after the frame. Jack mentioned you may be able to save the hull sides and bottom but a closer inspection is needed. If the bright (varnished) hull sides can't be saved, then the problem comes up with the length. The hull side ply is scarfed for the length. Scarfing ply that is bright isn't easy with todays ply where the face veneer may only be about 1/16" or less. There is no room for sanding!! Deck ply is simply butt joined with butt blocks under the deck. Still with a bright finish care is needed. Transom ply is two 1/4" layers bonded together to get the curvature.
As mentioned, keep us informed.

Brian82683 wrote: what type of wood is being used here?

CC used Mahogany for frames which is light and strong. Fir ply is fine for the gussets but do look for center veneer voids. You don't need to go with marine grade ply.

what type of wood is being used here?

Brian,
I feel epoxy does have a place with wood boats but not in all types of hulls. A traditional planked boat has too much movement between all the parts so no with epoxy. 5200 is the way to go. It's different with a ply hull since with the stability of plywood movement is almost zero so I feel epoxy is a good choice.

CPES should be used on all wood before assembly and then after partial assembly.

Brian,
Have you had the opportunity to read my diary on the Atom? Jack's comment regarding "probably" having to remove the skins is false!! You WILL need to remove the skins for the frame repair!!!

Anybody familiar with the Atom enough to know if that sole (floor) is original, I always thought they were plywood...

My earlier post seems to have disappeared. I was saying that watching this thread is like a walk down memory lane. Probably need to remove the plywood skins to do the repairs. I had many pictures on my topic but Photobucket ruined some of that. It's been four years since we started ours but only work on it at times.
I have posted the Gray Marine serial numbers. This should help you Brian to determine the year of the boat.

Gray Marine Serial Numbers

The plywood gussets at the knees and keel are original.