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Very interesting on the 5 year time window, def helps narrow it down. Also, located this number stamped on the top off the head. Not sure if it means anything.
![]() The bottom plywood is mahogany, however the sides and deck appear to be marine? is this normal or did someone replace it already? ![]() There is what looks like subfloor glue holding each panel on, not saying this is subfloor glue but it looks like it. Did they use some type of glue in 1946-49 under the plywood? ![]() |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Brian,
I feel that 48 cast into the block is key. Add a year for seasoning and then placing the boat in service and it comes out to the 49 or 50 That adhesive you found is interesting. CC didn't use any so your thought on some work done after it left the factory sure sounds possible. You say the sides and deck are "marine". Why do you feel it is? What about the bottom being "mahogany"? If so, then that would add to the thought that someone at one time did some hull work. |
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juniorwoody ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: August-09-2011 Location: Oak Hill, Fl Status: Offline Points: 937 |
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From what Brian told me seems the plywood was buttjoint instead of scarphed
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The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future
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81nautique ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5811 |
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Seems to me that the entire boat was reskinned at one time which doesn't really change anything at this point, it all needed to come off anyway. Fortunately they went sparingly on the adhesive and it came apart pretty easily.
When you install the new plywood make sure you have 100% coverage on the frame members with the 5200 so you don't allow any water to sit between the frame and the plywood. Lay the 5200 on the heavy side and go back and tool off any excess then clean the joint with some Xylol on a rag. |
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juniorwoody ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: August-09-2011 Location: Oak Hill, Fl Status: Offline Points: 937 |
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Agree on Alan’s post. Had the person who reskinned it used 5200 or glassed the bottom it would have been a mess
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The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Just curious guy's - is this factory work here? That Mastercraft sign has to go too
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Pete,
Ok glad I found that cast, so we have it narrowed down at least. The bottom has a the reddish brown mahogany color which I believe to be mahogany, where that pic I posted of under the deck appears to be marine, or even an exterior plywood. They look totally different. I think it should also be noted that the boat was painted brown so the PO who did the work (we assume) probably didn't care what he used. just my thoughts on that. |
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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in my defense there is a Nautique one above it. need to fix the tack!
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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Thats a good point which I never brought up, The seams are butt-jointed, However, the seems are also butt-jointed on the bottom. Ahhh this thing is a mess!
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Gary, That's factory. Due to the curvature of the transom, that frame is a ply lamination and it sure looks like it's delaminated or in a "Tim" term, disbonded! ![]() |
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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That makes sense,I was thinking when I posted that- that was a seam where they did not have a board long enough
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Jack, The lack of scarfing sure adds to the idea that at least the hull had work done to it. The deck would be butt joints down the middle fore to aft and then at the gunnel just aft of the decked bulkhead between the cockpits. |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Not having a long enough chuck of wood wouldn't have surprised me at all. CC back then could do anything with the "finishing hatchets"!! ![]() |
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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That was a lot of screws, but I think I am ready to start making a material list and plan for moving forward.....
if anyone has thoughts or input on this please type now. I was reading Jacks thread, If I am understanding correctly, I should be using all mahogany, NO white OAK due to weight, DF is ok for the stringers? ![]() ![]() |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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I agree, however, the DF really isn't needed on such a small low powered hull. If you come across some nice Mahogany, I'd be tempted to use it. But, what's wrong with the existing stringers? They should be good. |
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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The port side has a crack in the area under where the front passenger seat would be.
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juniorwoody ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: August-09-2011 Location: Oak Hill, Fl Status: Offline Points: 937 |
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That's a classic PO patch and one spot that seems to rot. Bet you knew that Gary Ha. |
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The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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Thoughts on the stringers? I think that port side has to go. I also don't believe I can really do much until I start replacing the frame and need to leave them alone for now. The Frame is not really supporting much at this point. Id like to make a cradle for the boat as suggested by Jack, once I can very carefully get some structure back without loosing the shape of the boat.
My current thought process is to start at the transom and work my way towards the bow. current material list: 1) 1X6X8 mahogany stock for the frame 2)1X2X? for the battens and gunwales 3) plywood for gussets (can this be 3/4 sanded with CPES'd ????) go easy on me fellas first timer here ![]() |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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The 3/4 is more than is needed. I'd go 1/2 or even 3/8 ext. Remember there's a gusset on both sides of the frames. Take a close look at the damaged stringer for a possible repair. I'd consider epoxy insetting a Dutchman. |
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juniorwoody ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: August-09-2011 Location: Oak Hill, Fl Status: Offline Points: 937 |
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I would salvage any part that is salvageable. Judging by the condition of the rest of the boat there is good reason to believe the stringers may be compromised. It that is the case they should be repaired or replaced first I think as a first step towards getting the bulkheads straight and true. Feel like the deck material should have been removed also to make installing the side hull material easier. Again, only if it needs replacement.
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The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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Im not discouraged but frankly this this is a mess, lawn mulch. This stringers are possibly the only part that could be salvaged. I took the transom frame off today and made a template for the mahogany. I absolutely 100% could not use the existing frame as a template. so It took some time. im using the template to support the back of the boat currently I have the boat hoisted up and supported by the stringers. There was no issue removing the decking last night in this area from under the boat. I agree that it would be easier up right but Its probably all that is holding it together at the moment
I plan to do the frame first so I can start to attach the rising boards and get some stability. One side at a time would be ideal but considering all frames are cracked and sinking in, Im leaning towards removing each one then reinstalling. |
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