56-Atom next steps help

New to the forum but have used it as a reference for the last couple of years. Thank You!

I have a 1956 Atom Skier, the original owner was my dad and friend. The friend handed the boat over to my brother in 1990. I now have taken over the project of rehab and hope to do an inaugural launch next summer. Goal 1 is to have it run and give the grandkids a ride around the lake. Goal 2 is to attend some boat shows when I retire in 10 years pending my kid's college expense.

I am not a mechanic or carpenter, I'm a high school principal who likes to tinker on projects. I', open to buying quality and learning how to install myself. Just don't want to break anything.

Boat looks in pretty good shape, but I would like to have you veterans ask questions or advise me to consider items of priority.

General comments and pics to give you an idea of the scope of the project:
1.   The boat floats with only leak coming in through drive shaft log. I repacked it.
2. The engine now runs, with concern the temp gauge does not move until I have it up to 2500 RPMs. Have not aligned the drive shaft to the engine yet.
3.   Original 6-volt system, generator, wire harness. I have to start it with a 12-volt jump, but it runs fine, and generator pushes amps at 12/14 ohms
4. Outside hull has been repainted recently
5. Nothing was done with top deck, considering repairs or replace?
6. Back transom was glassed by my dad after several years of water ski action.
7. Original trailer now has new wheels and bearings
8. I think I need to instal a bilge run off a separate 12-volt system.

John,
Here's the siphon bailer you should have.

I have it

56-Atom wrote: Is there a good way to patch the deck areas?

Not really but for a temporary until you put some new ply on the deck, I's go with original Famowood.

Jack,
The deck is 1/4" but the fore deck where it overhangs aft into the cockpit is doubled up with two layers of 1/4".

John,
Note that I stated "temporary" for the patch. You will need to get several coats of spar varnish on the deck and filler.

Winterized and pulled motor. Inspected the strut and is square to hull. Cutlas bearing is a 4" seated aft on strut. Seems to allow for some play with shaft laying on lower side of log. I will plan to replace. Is 4" bearing the proper setup? I see 2" and 6" bearings available.

Inspected the shaft. Seems to not be set correctly. The historic sales receipts indicate it was purchased in 1978. 40'x1'.


recommendations? Pull and reset? Go with a new shaft set-up?

They just wait until the sun goes down and the water freezes again and then just walk home Art.

56-Atom wrote: Inspected the shaft. Seems to not be set correctly. The historic sales receipts indicate it was purchased in 1978. 40'x1'. recommendations? Pull and reset? Go with a new shaft set-up?

John,
What specifically are you concerned with the existing shaft? What's not set correctly? The alignment?

The shaft and coupler are 40 years old at best estimate. The coupler is not seated flush with end of shaft at this time, about .20 overhang of the coupler.
Specific question for forum members:
Is a 40 yr old shaft and coupler a concern and should I just invest in new shaft and coupler?
Or
Shaft and coupler are timeless and I should pull coupler, make sure shaft is true and re-set coupler assuming the heat coupler in the oven is preferred method.

Thank for your advice.

If it doesn't touch the transmission output shaft, no worries. Put a piece of tape on the end of the shaft (in the middle of the transmission coupler, push the other half of the coupler up tight to its mate, Then look at the tape for a mark. No mark, leave it alone. What is important is that the coupler be tight on the prop shaft, no movement whatsoever between the two coupler halves.

ArtCozier wrote: If it doesn't touch the transmission output shaft, no worries. Put a piece of tape on the end of the shaft (in the middle of the transmission coupler, push the other half of the coupler up tight to its mate, Then look at the tape for a mark. No mark, leave it alone. What is important is that the coupler be tight on the prop shaft, no movement whatsoever between the two coupler halves.

The overhang of prop shaft does not allow two couplers to mate. I thought this might be due to a bad alignment, then I removed engine and prop shaft to take a closer look.

ArtCozier wrote: tap the coupler a bit in each direction, parallel to the shaft.

John,
If the coupling half can be moved by tapping, then the fit is bad. The copling bore to the prop shaft is a interference fit. The coupling needs to be ether pressed on/off or heated.

Whale is a brand name for an old-fashioned plunger type pump that has been manufactured for many, many years. The originals were a brass cylinder with the plunger and valves inside. It looks a lot like an old-fashioned bicycle pump, and because of its simplicity it's virtually failure-proof. You don't see them much anymore. Pete and I have fun needling each other occasionally. Welcome to the website!

Yup, that's it. Mine is a modern version in plastic and it doesn't have the stand-on pedal to hold it in place.