56-Atom next steps help

John,
From the color of the oil, it sure looks pretty fresh. Take another look at the engine. If it isn't obvious where the oil is coming from, place some cardboard under it and give it a couple days and then look again for areas that show the oil.

Congrats on getting the engine started. Any problems?

56-Atom wrote: Thanks Pete, Does this mean I have a solid coupling and not a taper. This may answer why I can slip it on by hand. ?

8122pbrainard wrote: John, If the coupling half can be moved by tapping, then the fit is bad. The coupling bore to the prop shaft is a interference fit. The coupling needs to be ether pressed on/off or heated.

8122pbrainard wrote: John, I'm pretty sure the coupling is a Buck Algonquin 3 bolt commonly used on Universals Atomic 4 engine. Get back to General with the OD and the OD of the pilot. 3 bolt couplings from General Propeller Those are Paragon guts in a Gray casing. If the trans "knuckles" over when you push the shift lever forward, don't mess with the adjustment. If it doesn't, then tighten the pack ONE NOTCH ONLY.

Thanks Pete, Does this mean I have a solid coupling and not a taper. This may answer why I can slip it on by hand. ?

John,
I'm pretty sure the coupling is a Buck Algonquin 3 bolt commonly used on Universals Atomic 4 engine. Get back to General with the OD and the OD of the pilot.

3 bolt couplings from General Propeller

Those are Paragon guts in a Gray casing. If the trans "knuckles" over when you push the shift lever forward, don't mess with the adjustment. If it doesn't, then tighten the pack ONE NOTCH ONLY.

Interesting that the cable for what is probably a mechanical tachometer comes off of the transmission. I've never seen that arrangement before.
The inside sure does look like a Paragon. Does anything say how to adjust the clutches? A Paragon has a bolt with a 5/8" head that you take out and that allows you to tighten up the clutch pack to compensate for wear. The lubrication comes from the engine oil, there is an opening from the transmission sump into the engine oil pan. Is there any information at all about the transmission on the tag on the cover plate?

Nothing says Paragon. Number on tag is #G19238. Number stamped on end of trans is OXK 22 (i think). Book says max horsepower at rpm 70/3400.

Found information in owners manual about Paragon Gear and also has information on Capital Gear.

Does the tag say Paragon at the top? If so, that's what it is; a Model 70. When I enlarge the photo I can't read it.

In one of your early posts I recall seeing the very tail end of the transmission just ahead of the coupler, and I thought at the time that it is probably an early Warner Gear, probably an AS1-70C. If you can post a photo of it, I can probably tell you for sure what it is.

This is the reply I received from Paul at General Propeller. Any advice on how I should reply regarding transmission make and model?

I am concerned about the coupling. It is not one we stock and I am not sure if it’s available.

Do you know the Make and model of the transmission?

We can compensate for the thread body length.

Regards,

Paul Fox

PaulF@gpcprop.com                          General Propeller Company, Inc.

8122pbrainard wrote: ArtCozier wrote: tap the coupler a bit in each direction, parallel to the shaft.     John, If the coupling half can be moved by tapping, then the fit is bad. The copling bore to the prop shaft is a interference fit. The coupling needs to be ether pressed on/off or heated.

Coupling half moved with tapping. Actually, it fell right off with pre-treat with wd40 and a pressed it right off. I then was able to slide it back on by hand with minimal taps to position that allows set screw (only 1) to engage fully.
Now shaft is recessed into coupling and mates up with the output shaft.


ArtCozier-sound good?
SNobsessed -I will check the shaft next
8122pbrainard-assume you suggest I go coupler or shaft shopping or both

ArtCozier wrote: Yup, that's it. Mine is a modern version in plastic and it doesn't have the stand-on pedal to hold it in place.

no mine is the modern version. It’s in plastic, has two wires, I hook it up to a 12v source. Works like a charm

Sounds like the 40 yr old shaft/coupler is worth some time to attempt the tap test and or pressing into position. Then I'll check the shaft.

Thanks for the wisdom. Still trying to catch the humor behind the whale pump, but I am sure being new to the forum has it's learning curve.

There's your problem. The index dimples in the shaft are not lined up with the setscrew holes. The shaft has moved forward in the coupler half. The procedure is to put the setscrews in just a bit more than hand-tight, then tap the coupler a bit in each direction, parallel to the shaft. The sets will loosen up a bit. Repeat that process over and over until you reach the desired torque on the setscrews.

SNobsessed wrote: Does the .o2 stickout interfere with the other coupler? If so, why not just grind it flush? Seems like that would be a lot less work. You can check runout with the coupler on.

Yes, the .20 does not allow for couplers to be connected and set screw (picks added) is offset as well.