56-Atom next steps help

ArtCozier wrote: Whale is a brand name for an old-fashioned plunger type pump that has been manufactured for many, many years. The originals were a brass cylinder with the plunger and valves inside. It looks a lot like an old-fashioned bicycle pump, and because of its simplicity it's virtually failure-proof. You don't see them much anymore. Pete and I have fun needling each other occasionally. Welcome to the website!

Did some research via 1959 boat catalogue that came with my 56-Atom. Don't think they will still have them in stock.

56-Atom wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: John, If the coupling half can be moved by tapping, then the fit is bad. The copling bore to the prop shaft is a interference fit. The coupling needs to be ether pressed on/off or heated. 8122pbrainard-assume you suggest I go coupler or shaft shopping or both

John,
If the shaft is straight (max runout .003") then I would replace the coupling. They will bore it per the shaft OD. General Propeller would be my choice. Check the shaft.

Chances are high that the boat was run with a misaligned shaft that fretted the fit between the coupling and shaft.

Post up a picture of your trans

Got it now, it says "Graymarine" That of course is the engine brand. I don't know for sure whether they built transmissions. The squarish top cover suggests Paragon to me. Could be that it was a Paragon built and they had an agreement with Gray to rebrand it. A close-up of that tag would help.

Yes, the cable runs to dash tac. The owners manual speaks of a Forward Adjustment Lockscrew. Lubrications does come from engine oil. Nothing on the tag on cover plate regarding transmission.

Great information, Pete. I agree, it must be a Paragon built for Gray. My experience with Paragon mechanical transmissions is that they are practically indestructible.

Your coupling is definitely NOT a tapered fit. As Pete said, the shaft is entirely too loose in the coupler, A tapered coupling and shaft would be a good update to have if you have to replace them. General Prop can probably make it for you. They offer a 3/4" bore straight coupler, so it could be made into a taper in their machine shop if your shaft is 1 inch.

Did some hull underside inspection today. Noticed oily water seeping. The boat has not been run in years, I did set the engine and got it started, floated boat a couple of times but did not notice any oil leaks. Is this common or do I have an oil reservoir in my hidden bildge space? Recommendations?

Pete, thanks for the quick reply!    I had pulled the engine after winterizing, as part of my shaft alignment project. I took a quick look under the engine and sure enough I had drips accumulated under engine block. Perhaps it did the same while in boat this past year.

Problems getting engine started? I wish I could post a video of it finally firing up! Had to have starter rebuilt and after figuring the throttle body, engine idle, and choke out she fired up after a hour of tinkering around. I floated it and water pump pulled great etc...Then I realized I had plug wires wrong and only running on 1 cyl. Reordered and fired up all four cyl with great amazement from me and my 16 year old what all 70 horses sound and feel like.! Just need to check cables and get the 6volt to turn it over.

The boat ramp was a pretty steep one and the gasket is old and brittle, on my list to replace. That was most likely it. When I checked the engine recently it was dead center on engine case that is now sitting level on a cart. I just may have not tightened the oil plug tight after we did the oil change when out of the boat.

John,
What oil did you use? It's VERY important that you use an oil with high ZDDP content. Modern oils do not have it anymore. I use Valvolene VR1 20-50 but there are others with the ZDDP levels your flat tappet engine needs. If you didn't use an oil with ZDDP, do NOT run the engine.

This is a link to the "first run" Not sure if it will be viewable but thought I would give it a try.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PaSyZtkbR_iwwLNm7rU9cA4y7GUzVP09/view?usp=sharing

56-Atom wrote: Mobile1 30.

John,
I went searching for ZDDP levels in Mobile1 30 weight and can't find Mobile1 made in any straight weight's. Are you sure it's straight 30? Maybe I didn't search enough? Anyway, you are probably going by recommended oil that's in a manual or on a name plate. Keep in mind that info is very dated back in the days when multi viscosity oils weren't invented yet. The benefits of multi viscosity oils have been proven and they will benefit old engines too.