Packing Gland |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: December-19-2004 at 8:42pm |
The prop shaft packing gland on my '68 Mustang slips into an old rotten rubber hose with a hose clamp that clamps the hose to the packing gland. The hose disappears into the fiberglass bottom. Is this normal? I cannot see how the hose can be replaced. The fiberglass seems to be molded around it. This can't be right can it?
|
|
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
|
|
captan1
Senior Member Joined: June-02-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 180 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ah, just take the hose off and keep it floored
|
|
Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I've been searching the internet and have found nada. I may have to take the floor out of my '66 to see how the prop shaft is sealed on it.
Is the rubber hose protruding through my hull (through which the prop shaft passes) part of some sort of boot that is installed from the bottom (outside) of the hull? If so what is this thing called and who sells them? It looks like some kind of hose about 2" in diameter that is just crammed into the bottom of the boat. Is it held in by some sort of sealant like Permatex? |
|
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
|
|
Rick
Senior Member Joined: March-03-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 338 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The rubber hose is attached to a brass plate that extends through the hull. You may need to remove the floor and maybe some foam to find it. The hose won't be longer than 6". To replace the hose you need to detach the coupling from the tranny. Loosen the bolt that holds the shaft in place. There may also be a nut in the coupling attached to some threads on the shaft. Once you slip the shaft out of the coupling you can replace the hose by loosening the hose clamps and pulling the old hose and packing gland out. After puting the new hose on take the gland apart and pry the old packing out of the nut. Replace with 3 rings of 3/8" packing(I like the teflon flax best.) The rings should be long enough to completely surround the shaft. Stagger the packing joints around the nut and tighten You should see 3-10 drops per minute form when the boat is in the water. This keep the shaft lubricated. You will also have to realign the engine ans shaft. Thats a whole new post as its been covered before in GREAT detail by Tryan. Just remember to do it in the water so the boat is flexed as it would be when its running.
|
|
tstafford
Groupie Joined: March-15-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 81 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I have a 68 mustang and had the same situation. It seems that when the boat was made the hose was glassed on to the shaft log. I cut the hose off as much as I could and then used a dremel tool with a grinding bit to remove the rest. The hose is not glassed in to far and it is not a big problem. You may have to work a bit to get the hose out from under the shaft log. Make sure that you cover all of the areas with epoxy when you are finished.
|
|
Trevor 1968 Mustang
|
|
Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Exactly what is a shaft log? Does the hose slip over it or inside it? Will I have to cut away the fiberglass around the hull so I can add another hose clamp? Rick (above) said to loosen the hose "clamps" to remove the hose. My hose has only one clamp clamping it to the threaded part of the packing gland (which slips inside the hose). The hose appears to have the fiberglass molded to it where it disappears into the bottom of the boat. This concurs with what you have said. Once I remove the old hose how will the replacment be secured to the hull?
The reason I am asking all of this is because the hose on the boat now is very rotten (but it is working) and I want to know that I am not creating a major amount of fiberglass work when I rip it out (which I am not prepared to do). Thanks for your help so far. |
|
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
|
|
tstafford
Groupie Joined: March-15-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 81 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Jim,
It sounds to me that you really must change the hose. If the hose ruptures and the boat is in the water, the boat will eventually sink. Normally the hose has two clamps on the packing gland side and two clamps on the boat side. Usually anything below water line is double clamped. Our boats had the hose glassed into the boat. Under the hose is a metal tube also called the shaft log. The new hose will be double clamped to that shaft log. Once the old hose is out, it is not so much cutting as it is grinding and sanding the area around and under the shaft log. Once done the new hose can be clamped to the packing gland (stuffing box) and the shaft log. Do not glass in the new hose. If you can't do the job, you must find someone who can. |
|
Trevor 1968 Mustang
|
|
Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks Trevor. Good advise. I'm going to remove the old hose as soon as the weather clears.
|
|
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
|
|
64 Skier
Senior Member Joined: February-08-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 415 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
My '71 was the same. A few hours work and the old hose and the glass that was poured around it was gone and ready for a new hose.
Buy some re-inforced hose. The hose does have torque on it from the stuffing box packing, although very little. |
|
Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Great point! re-inforced hose it is. Thanks!
|
|
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
|
|
chris
Guest |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
While your at changing out the hose for the stuffing box and have everything apart it is definetly worthwhile to change the whole thing out to a PYI packless shaft seal. These keep the bilge 100% dry. They are reasoably priced at around 225.00 and are real easy to install. They are guaranteed for 3 years. Check them out at PYIinc.com.
Ive just completed a complete re-build on a 1975 Southwind 18. Just launched it after Christmas. Love the boat! |
|
64 Skier
Senior Member Joined: February-08-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 415 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Chris,
I had to dig out my rear clamps like Jim is doing now. After all that work I wish I had used the PYI shaft seal. I'm trying to make my boat Teenager Friendly and the less things that kid has to check on the better! |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |