Marine Electrical |
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64 Skier
Senior Member Joined: February-08-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 415 |
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Posted: February-08-2004 at 2:56am |
I'm new to the Correct Crafts and have an old '64 Skier. Hooked on the pull and noise and now we own two...the second is a '72.
The 64's Engine has been completely re-built with a new stringer/glass and an aluminum engine frame from the front seat to the rear. For dependability I "single" wired the starting system using a newly re-built alternator, basically ridding the boat of the starter solenoid (starter has one!), the external voltage regulator and the fuse link. This also decreased the length of the battery cable. Original starter was re-built. A new MSD distributor, plug wires and coil as well in adddition to new gauges and dash wiring. The alternator was from a Chevy and not a marine part. I also added an aluminum high rise and Holley 600 CFM also not a marine part. Is this inherently safer than the original design that has wiring running all over the engine? Any Carb concerns? |
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SS-201
Senior Member Joined: October-20-2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 105 |
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The Carb's has what's called J tubes to put the fuel back in the throttle plate area.They are put in the vent holes. If the floats can't control the fuel level and the needle and seat fail. This keeps fuel from running on the engine and in the boat. The alternators are sealed as in industrial vehicles to keep and electrical spark from igniting a fire or explosion. The starters also are sealed with a cover or strap again as industrial to keep from electrial spark causing fire or worse. You be the judge.
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SS 201
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64 Skier
Senior Member Joined: February-08-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 415 |
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Understand and I'll look into the alternator since I believe they can be sealed. The starter should be OK.
Although the parts I removed were original they did not look Marine...Carb (old Carter 2 BBL, Alternator etc in original paint. That was my reasoning behind simplifying the wiring. Maybe the '64 predated the Marine/USCG Regs. I've had and still own old Ford Bronco's and our Web Site is full of burned wiring due to age and those goofy external solenoids and regulators. Myself, I've melted a fuse and burned about a mile of wire with that arrangement! I was trying to improve by simplifying the system and it's cold out so I still have time to revise! Interesting about the Holley and the J-Tubes. I'll look and see if the vents are external. The Carb I installed is great, but it definitley must be safe. I've had the thing at 45 degrees for many an hour either stuck in a ditch or hill climbing and never saw a leak. Thanks! |
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tryan
Senior Member Joined: November-12-2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 345 |
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i have seen five boats burn to the waterline and it's not a pretty sight.
you might invest in a fume detector first. pricey, but that would be your best investment at this tiime. i would install a blower second. they are 20 bucks and self-extinguising vent line is also 20 bucks. you should run the blower for 4 minutes before you turn the key. when ever i put my boat in the water i raise the hatch/cover and check for gas, water and oil leaks as the motor is warming up. just a habit. the starter is closer to the potential fumes, so i would start there and work my way up. marine parts are marine because they are sealed. you need a sealed solenoid and a sealed starter. fumes settle. original to you , paint or otherwise, doesn't mean original to the boat or safe. maybe, but maybe not. if a car did not come with seatbelts, i would still put some in. you should be able to get a marine housing for the alt. the distributor will also have a screened vent. i have made the j-tubes for a holley, but i don't know how your carter is set up. you should also look into a double diaphram fuel pump and a flame arrestor breather if you don't have one. i could tell you my 'sinking fast story' with the bilge filled with gas, but i don't want to bore anybody. |
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