Engine Rebuild

Parts - That would depend on exactly how much of the job you're doing yourself. If you are having basic machining only and you are assembling everything yourself with all your own internal parts you'd likely be looking at different suppliers than if you had a machine shop do a short or long block for you and you just have to reassemble the rest.

Yes, you can run the engine on blocks, but it can be quite a headache - lots of things to have in place before you can fire it up. But if all you're needing is a compression test I'm thinking that doesn't necessarily need to be done with a warm engine, especially if you are just rebuilding anyway.

My past research indicated that good compression for the 351 is going to range from 120-165 psi depending on model and compression ratio. I think I've read a good average for the standard (non-HO) is between 120 and 135 psi but perhaps someone else has the official numbers.

Yes, there's always summit for the generic Ford parts. For more marine or Correct Craft specific - aside from the ever popular skidim or NautiqueParts - you could try some of these:

marineparts

discountmarine

ebasicpower

cpperformance

I;ve bought items from each of them and a few others. All are reputable and for the most part competitively priced.

Update:
Rechecked Compression and got 125-130 on all.

jterr wrote: I'm assuming the 83 engines had a 4160 Holley. 1st question-Where to find rebuild kit, my parts guy told me good luck with that......

John,
Where have you been shopping? Autozone? I just googled rebuild kits for 4160's and got 84,200 results!! You defiantly need a new parts guy.

jterr wrote: Agree but I think he was "cornfused" as I asked for a marine kit.... When he has the parts I get a Hellava discount.

I don't feel he was confused but rather ignorant on carbs. Did he even ask you for the list # that's stamped on the horn of the carb? If he didn't, then he certainly isn't confused. The list # pretty much determines the kit used. I'm sure Ken will be along and can fill in the blanks that I'm sure I've missed.

8122pbrainard wrote: jterr wrote: I'm assuming the 83 engines had a 4160 Holley. 1st question-Where to find rebuild kit, my parts guy told me good luck with that...... John, Where have you been shopping? Autozone? I just googled rebuild kits for 4160's and got 84,200 results!! You defiantly need a new parts guy.

If you can post what the list number is on the air horn of the carb it should be pretty easy to get a Holley kit number that your parts guy could get for you.

See the picture for the list number location

I was gonna pick on Pete's spelling of definitely but thought I'd let it slide   

   

We get lazy with spell check don't we! If the spelling doesn't come up wrong, most like myself think everything is definitely correct!


Ken,
What's going on with you today since you held off picking on me? Are you worn out from kicking your dog too much?

Wow, find a new parts guy. Helluva discount up front doesn’t mean much if you have to do it twice. A compression check “should” be done warm but I’d be more concerned with all 8 cylinders being within 10% of each other rather cold vs. warm. FWIW I did a compression check last week on my Honda outboard, 120 cold, 160 hot.

jterr wrote: 83 351 out of boat Where is good place for engine parts?

jterr wrote: I'm assuming the 83 engines had a 4160 Holley. Where to find rebuild kit, my parts guy told me good luck with that......

So John, were did you find this "parts guy"?

75009-1 or whatever the last digit is is all you need. That's the list number. Have your parts guy order a kit for that. If you don't have any luck post back here.

I know this will sound stupid, but as I said know enough about engines to get myself in trouble.
Was removing parts off engine and found 2 water pumps-1 looks normal the other is down bottom left if looking at motor......
Question should I replace or just try and clean them up. The one on top looks pretty rusty on the inside. I haven't gotten to the bottom one yet?

Is it a regular type waterpump you buy for auto's?

I'd reuse the circ pump if it spins smoothly and there's no sign of seal leakage.

I'd reuse the raw water pump with a new impeller at a minimum or you can find a overhaul kit with everything needed to rebuild it if you want to do that.

There are threads on here about rebuilds.

Everything except a hydraulic press and some tools that is

Here's a link with quite a bit of info

link

and another

link

SNobsessed wrote: The brass wear plate on the RWP can be flipped over to get a fresh running surface. Someone may have done this already tho . . .

Will check and see if I can tell. Thanks