351w harmonic balancer RR

these guys in the link will probably be able to help

link

Or these guys

link

Both places can rebuild what you have now

The PCM part number which probably won't help at all is R064004.

A couple of numbers I have written down are

Ford part number C90E-6316-E1 which is for a normal rotation marine 351W with 3 bolt holes for the pulley. I'm looking at one in my hands right now so I'm confident in that number.

Since yours is reverse rotation he could work from that part and reverse the timing markings for your Reverse Rotation application.

I also have written down D1JE-6316-A1A as being for a RR 351W with 3 bolt holes, but don't have one in front of me to look at, so that might be questionable   Edit, I found this one (The D1JE-6316-A1A) and got a look at it and it is for a 351RR

I think the Damper Doctor lists one of those,

You could have the Dude call the Doctor, it's a local call between them

If you get an electronic advance timing light then all you need is TDC or "0"     Dial in your advance on the light that you want and then it flashes on Zero when you get it set. ALL readings are from Zero on the balancer. No more guess work. My light shows RPM and Timing

This is the one I use. Am sure that there are other makes also that are capable of doing what you need. The beauty of these is that you only have to paint TDC or Zero on the balancer and then everything is read from that line. The light flashes on whatever you set it at and flashes on the TDC line. And the RPMs are on the split screen.

timing light

dwcar wrote: Thanks for the info Duane. One more question. Will the bolt in the center of the HB be a lefty loosy or righty loosy

Actually a "Righty Tighty"
RH thread and most likely TIGHT

KENO wrote: So it's a lefty loosey

Kinda like wiring duplex outlets:
Whitey*****Brighty
Black*******Gold     (like beverly hillbillies oil, black/gold)

Thanks again guys!!

The extra thickness is on the backside and may interfere with the timing cover a little (my 302 did and required a little clearancing).

Rubber gasket, wtf?

TRBenj wrote: The extra thickness is on the backside and may interfere with the timing cover a little (my 302 did and required a little clearancing). Rubber gasket, wtf?

What he said

There's no rubber gasket there.

Just the big metal washer and the big bolt.

I think I'd be asking the Damper Dude why there's a difference

I can take a picture and give you a measurement of the clearance of a stock damper to the timing cover a little later today.

Pretty hard to rust through that thick hunk of cast iron, I think you had water leaking down from a leaking water pump for a period of time to cause the rust in the picture.

Both dampers seat on the surface that the steel scale is sitting on.   I don't see where there would be a clearance issue. Everything is referenced from that face.
But, I've been wrong before

Duane in Indy wrote: Both dampers seat on the surface that the steel scale is sitting on.   I don't see where there would be a clearance issue. Everything is referenced from that face. But, I've been wrong before

The issue can come into play where the thicker outer ring comes into contact with timing cover before the surface you reference can seat firmly on the crank.   I seem to recall needing to grind around the base of the timing pointer a few times. Otherwise you crank the damper on and find that your engine doesn't seem to roll over to quickly. I assume thats just nasty sludge or RTV on the front of that crank. I get my engines mixed up lately but I believe in addition to the new seal referenced above on the timing cover you also need to put some thread sealant on that bolt if you want to keep oil from leaking out around the threads - so that gunk maybe what was thrown at that.

Here's a picture taken from the side

There is about 1 1/16 inches clearance on the stock balancer ring before it would contact anything on the timing cover.

On the hub, there is about 3/8 inch clearance before it would hit in the seal area.

So it sure looks like the new one wouldn't have any clearance issues.

One question though, is the new on drilled for mounting the 3 hole pulley like you have?

Later ones were 4 bolt

I'd check with the Damper Dude on the imbalance being the same just to be sure .

I talked to the Damper Dude. He does not think I will have any clearance problems. It is a 3 bolt. I have removed the timing cover and there is a little slack or looseness in my chain. Should I replace or do you think it is ok??


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehmGUbLKOXY&feature=youtu.be

Hello I have a 351 rr parts

Don78. Can you post pictures of what you have?