Velvet dip stick

Now that the dipstick has been resolved
Seeing as I have all this out of boat, should I rebuild the Velvet Drive?
When I bought the boat I never had a chance to drive because stringers were so bad.
I have looked for rebuild in forums but can't find, still not asking the right way I guess.
Thoughts and Suggestions
Thanks
JT

Very good info, think I will rebuild as I have it out of boat.
Thanks

Duane in Indy wrote: jterr wrote: Very good info, think I will rebuild as I have it out of boat. Thanks Why jump to conclusion that it needs rebuilt??   I think lake testing would be my choice. Good luck

Motor and tranny are out of boat sitting in barn......

John,
Good advice from Duane. Drain and pull the suction screen at the bottom of the case looking for debris. If it looks good, don't open it up. I have 54 years on a velvet at it still runs like new.

Don't expect the price to be the same as this one was.

jterr wrote: Duane in Indy wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Drain and pull the suction screen at the bottom of the case looking for debris. Don't be too surprised if the screen is missing. Some have been tossed. Ok before I just start unbolting things , where is this drain plug and screen located

John,
The screen will be behind the cooling line (hose) fitting towards the bottom of the case.

wheedle wrote: If you have something to spin it with, you can test it. Keno has talked about using a pto off of a tractor. I have read this before, but have yet to rebuild mine. https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=53874

Here in the link below is how a real backyard hack would test his transmission ,(partway down the first page).

You can at least see that it spins in fwd and reverse and check pressures in fwd and reverse too with a couple of gauges.

Duane, I see some words about what a rebuild is or isn't from that senior member you refer to in the same linked thread

link

The tranny is like an automatic. Fiber Plates inside squeezed between Metal plates when you engage. There will be material in the oil.   These are very durable tranny's and easy to repair when broken so I would vote for use it after installing new fluid. Run it a while and install new fluid again just to make sure it is clean and ready for long term use.
I made the mistake of using my reverse as a brake in a panic stop and broke mine. the clutch plates fractured. It was not hard or expensive to fix it. I was 20 years younger then so maybe it would be heavier and harder to do now.

Speaking of reverse...
Is this a reverse rotation engine. I looked for a tag but I guess when the PO did all his crap to this engine took it off.
It is a 351w PCM I'm guessing as it is painted a gold color????
Also while removing the alternator it wasn't hooked to anything , so it is probably wrong also....

Pete, going to neutral probably would have been just as quick of a stop but I was rolling at 40mph coming around a blind curve in the river to find 4 boats coming at me head on, one jet boat cut hard right for some reason which put us on a collision course. I went for panic stop, avoided any collisions but scared the poop out of me.   We avoided contact by about a foot, no more. My reverse at full throttle came from many years driving jet boats, the technique worked much better in them. Blew the clutches right apart in the velvet drive.
I still had enough forward gear to make it back to the dock without reverse.
Fixed it in one day in my garage. They are pretty tough.

jterr wrote: Speaking of reverse... Is this a reverse rotation engine. I looked for a tag but I guess when the PO did all his crap to this engine took it off. It is a 351w PCM I'm guessing as it is painted a gold color???? Also while removing the alternator it wasn't hooked to anything , so it is probably wrong also....

You could pull the plugs and distributor cap and turn the engine from the harmonic balancer bolt. From the front turn it CCW and if the rotor turns CCW you have a reverse rotation engine. That'll be a definite way to tell without having to make any assumptions

Speaking of props, what is the difference in a 3 blade and a 4 blade (I have on my 79)

8122pbrainard wrote: MrMcD wrote: I made the mistake of using my reverse as a brake . But Mark, using reverse on a boat are the brakes. Is there another way to slow a boat?

Pete, I am guessing by context and how he said it, he wasnt braking for a nice gentle stop while idling into the dock. I get the sense it was a pretty quick 35 to 0 in 15 feet kind of stop.

Well theoretically a one blade prop will “work” . What you need to ask what prop would be best for my boat and my use.

Duane in Indy wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Drain and pull the suction screen at the bottom of the case looking for debris. Don't be too surprised if the screen is missing. Some have been tossed.

Told ya so