steering questions

Just change the steering cable will solve your problem,I just help my frien change his cable and become like new now.(before he need 2 hands and use milk power to turn ).

One time a friend brought his boat to the lake for weekend.The steering was near frozen.need to make it work,so we cut a piece of hose and clamped it around the outer sleeve,held it higher than steering box and filled it with atf.Then we installed a plug in the end of hose(Also clamped).Then we force the cable out,extended it into the atf,since this displaced some atf it was forced up the cable.Unclamped hose moved cable back in,refilled hose repeated 3 or 4 times and had atf coming out steering box.Cable was completly free no binds and still is.This was an I need it now deal for
shade tree fix, no doubt but worked.Given the time of year and boat its on I'd get a new cable.

Munday

It is a good idea to check the clamp box for wear. In 2003 the box wore out on my 1997 boat came off the pivot ball. My wife was driving around a turn island and pulling me out of the water at the time. I watched from the ski handle as the boat slid up on the shoreline.

i feel it's pretty much a waist of time to install the zirk fitting. Once your on your way the water pressure is going to wash out the rease anyway.

Also read the post correctly the ball of the clamp block broke not something on the rudder. The clamp block needs to be checked once in a while but you shouldn't see much movement during operation at that joint.

use corretccraftfan.coms 10% discount off your order..even better randy 120 bucks and yoou will be on your way to powerslides!

Seems only # SSC12419 is the correct part no. 19' measure from end to the hub tooth.

Randy, take at the cable White Lake Marine sells. Youre right about the length: 19.5'. CC uses oddball cables that come in half foot increments and have longer throws (10" vs. 8"). If you go with a standard 19' or 20' cable with the standard throw, you'll lose some of your turning radius. You may also have to relocate your cable clamp so you can turn the rudder the same distance in both directions.

If you dont get the cable through a dealer, make sure you get the right part number.

a longer tiller arm requires more throw to turn the same amount as a shorter arm. Now the heavy duty part is a completely different story

I replaced the steering cable. Wow, what a difference! I can turn it with one finger and all the play is gone.

Eric,

I think it's all good. I clamped it at the same place on the travel tube where it was. When the wheel is centered the rudder is straight. turns smoothly...

what?????????????.....30%hard.....you feel 30% hard right now?

I bet those cables don't hold up well in salt.

One suggestion I would make... if I did this again I would have used tape to secure the nut that fastens the cable to the travel tube to the end of the cable while fishing it through the hull. problem I had was once i had the cable fished through the nut was still in the front of the boat!

tying a rope to the end of the old cable before pulling it out made pulling the new one through a lot easier.

Damn. After reading here, I have to replace my cable.

Randy, that's great that you're nearly ready! You've worked hard this winter. I hope you have a great summer.

I replaced my cable on my Supra once, so I'm not super worried about it. This winter I took the cable off the rudder and the rudder moved without any problems...smooth. I greased up the cable and hooked it back up...it's still tight. So, following a couple others and now your experience I'm probably going to replace it. My kids have been complaining about how tough it is to turn.   

wow i just realized that sounded bad....when your done buffing out your boat you can buff out my boat!.better now