Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild

Looks like a wonderful project. Nice place to start - clean assembly of a big pile of good parts.

Is the windshield on the boat the original? It's different than the windshield on my '68.

Your engine mounts are only lagged in vertically,those horizontal holes are not used. Sometimes the mounts are not even flush to the stringers

One just unscrews the top nut on the engine mount and lift ithe engine out. You never touch the lags again

Chuck where are you in Minnesota. I am in Buffalo

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Chucky wrote: But, they do make a balancer that will accept the 3 hole (old school) pulley that I already have (most newer 50oz. balancer’s use 4 hole pulleys) and the teeth on the old flywheel had some damage.

Pulley's can be redrilled and flywheel gears are available thru Oreilly and others, cheap

Great looking boat! I just finished a 302 this spring for my Ski Tique, that little Mustang will be a lot of fun.

Chucky, Ken is correct. The Federal-Mogul Teflon Seal is made in the National Plant, FM owns both National and Fel-Pro, they supply seals on some parts to Timken.

The 5277 is directional and for Standard Rotation only. As Ken mentioned the lines on the sealing surface are threads, with Standard rotation cranks they pump your oil back into the oil pan. WITH REVERSE ROTATION THEY PUMP THE OIL OUT to your flywheel and your bilge.
Great seal but use only in Standard Rotation Engines they do not make them for a Reverse Rotation Engine.
I do not work there any longer so my opionion is no longer tainted!   

FYI: these seals all come with a plastic installation tool mounted in the seal.
The big end of this tool is slipped over the crankshaft seal surface and you use the tool to spread the seal as you press it on to the shaft.
Teflon is installed CLEAN and DRY, no lube of any kind on the seal surface.
A light oil can be use to lubricate the outer rubber housing seal but the Teflon face must be clean and dry.
Once fully installed take a vice grip, clamp it on the protruding plastic tool and pull it out.
You are done.
The Teflon will mate to the crankshaft surface and Teflon with impregnate into the steel crank surface so you end up with teflon rubbing against teflon and you could run this seal for 1,000,000 miles without a leak. They are incredible technology but have very specific installation rules you have to follow. Last I checked the box they come in only says follow OEM installation instructions.   Those rules do not work for Teflon which was not OEM in these engines. I had a one page flyer describing proper installation I used to provide to the machine shops so they could train employees.

The only thing that causes these to leak is if you nick them on install not using the plastic install tool or if the cranshaft has a scratch or burr that allows for a leak path.
The old seal groove is not a problem, the teflon will seal right over the old seal groove.
The contact patch on the crank is about 1/8" wide. Teflon will also never wear another groove in the crank like the OEM seal did which is the reason the OEM design will fail at high mileage. eventually the OEM style Seal groove wears deep and the seal leaks.

If you have one of these seals keep the plastic install tool in the seal. If you leave it out the teflon will not hold its shape, it will lay out flat. You can always put the plastic tool back in place and the teflon will reshape again and be useable.

Hope this helps.

Mark

IF you wish to be the guinea pig on this install the seal reversed, It will work for a while. The dirt excluder lip would not be inside so you won't keep dirt out of the sealing surface and that will make the seal fail plus dirt inside an engine is always bad.
The threads really do work to pump oil in one direction only.
Mark

Chucky wrote: It is my opinion, after looking closely with my cheater (125’s) glasses and also rotating the seal under good lighting that the lines are not threads. They appear to me, to be completely parallel to the sealing surface. The other National seal (3909) on Federal Mogul’s website “specifications” states “counter-clockwise spiral lip design”. This seal’s spec’s (5277) do not list clock-wise or counter-clockwise. Why would they list it on one and not the other?

We're seeing the same thing Chucky, they look parallel but I don't know if there's a real fine "thread " to the lines like I mentioned earlier.

Also like I said, I don't know the answer but at least you know it's not smooth.

i do know that I'd never put it in backwards like MrMcD said, since if it is threaded, the threads will still be going the same direction. Just like a nut on a bolt, you can put the nut on either way and the nut threads on since the thread direction is still the same.

I also know that if you zoom in on the National 3909 with the "counterclockwise spiral lip design" in the link below, you can see the wick lines, helix lines, spiral lines or whatever terminology somebody wants to use and that's what people are accustomed to seeing on a one piece directional seal. And they look nothing like the teflon seal. This does nothing but make for confusion.with no mention of directionality for the 5277 teflon seal

link

I also think I'd call the Federal Mogul tech line and see what they have for an answer   

1 800 325 8886 7:30 to 4:30 Central time.   

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The seal does not fill in the existing groove in your crankshaft. The OEM seal was a point contact seal so it seals on what is the sharp egdge of a V shaped seal.
The Sharp edge is what cuts the groove in your existing crank at high miles.
The 5277 you have has about a 1/8" contact surface and it seals over the top of your existing groove. Does not fill in.
I have seen these seals at high mileage after use. They still show the grooves in the face.
Good Luck, hope it works but the engineering staff was pretty clear when we introduced this product that it is not for use in reverse rotation.

Chucky

I woke up this morning with an absolutely brilliant idea, well maybe, only if it works.

Figuring somebody somewhere must sell a 302 RR remanufactured long block, I started looking and found First Mate Marine.

They're sold thru Summit and probably sell direct also.

They have a 302 RR long block with a one piece rear main seal . Same crank number as yours. Part number is FO302RB for the long block

I bet a phone call to them would either get you a seal or a seal brand and number that they use in this engine.

Their phone number is in the link to their website below

link    

Good luck