1950 atom

hello all! working on removing the sides on my atom, plywood sides. seems most screws are put in at an angle, what is the best way to remove them without stripping all the brass screws ?

Pete, should he try and reuse original screws or get new of same type
Would you try a Easy-out screw extractor if it strips?

thanks pete! on the type of screws, they do come out easy if the slot is not stripped.the spray rail is proving to be the worst to get. on disassembly of the ply wood sides I have noticed I believe to be the knee braces are almost all split, so what type of ply were those made from?

I made mine from scrap mahogany plywood I had. Any AC plywood will do but always good to CPES all parts before securing.

Morfoot wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: DO NOT use brass or stainless screws. Inquiry minds wanna know......Why not Professor Brainard?

The zinc in brass and they become very brittle. Stainless will rust.

connorssons wrote: .the spray rail is proving to be the worst to get. on disassembly

Jeff,
The spray rails are screwed on from both the inside and the outside of the hull.

Pete is there any real evidence that the stainless will rust? I know the thinking and have read what Dannenberg says about using them but it seems restorers like to use silicon bronze and modern new boat builders prefer stainless. There are a lot of boats being built with stainless screws. The Collegian I'm restoring is full of them, the entire bottom and a lot repairs were done with stainless and as I'm removing them they look as good as the day they went in which was easily over 10 years ago. there is a big price difference between the two materials and I'd like to use stainless when I put this boat back together. I find it hard to believe all the guys building new wood boats could be in the wrong. Not trying to be a wiseguy, I'm looking for real evidence they are inferior. Thanks

8122pbrainard wrote: 81nautique wrote: Pete is there any real evidence that the stainless will rust? Thanks Alan, I have see failed SS screws but, I feel it was the SS type and what Dannenberg is concerned about. A friends Chris's bottom was failing. A PO had refastened it and used SS screws BUT, they were SS deck screws and most likely 400 series. The friend showed me some of the screws he was able to remove.and they were corroded almost all the way through. Others were simply snapping off. Now, if you used type 316 SS screws, then I have a feeling there wouldn't be a problem. I'll bet the SS screws you are finding are 316.

18-8 is used for general purpose and 316 is recommended for salt water boats.
The 18-8 are almost half the cost of Silicone bronze, the 316 are about the same as silicone bronze.   In a boat like the Collegian there are about 2000 screws for the sides and transom of the boat at an average of 25 cents per screw so switching to the 8-18 can save about $200.

Another cost saving item would be the 5200. When I did the Hurricane it cost $13 per tube, It now costs $22 per tube for the mahogany color, slightly less for white which can be used on the bottom or on a painted boat but for bright finish you need the mahogany. there is a product that a few builders are playing with from bostick called 920, it is a urethane like 5200 with similar specs. It costs about $9 per tube but only comes in white and black so it doesn't help me at all but maybe Jeff could use it and save a few bucks.

Just for grins I used 92 tubes of 5200 when i did the Hurricane, that's almost $1200 back then but is over $2000 now.   The lumber always appears like it will be the largest expense on these boats but fasteners, adhesive, paint, varnish, etc will cost far more than lumber.

Alan,
Sounds like you have a plan. Just don't get the cheap SS deck screws made in China at the Depot!