Engine Modernization

So, as I get ready to start cosmetic and mechanical work on the 1965 American Skier, considering some engine "upgrades". It has the 190HP 289 V8 (going to confirm with the engine ID). Thoughts on replacing points with electronic ignition and higher voltage coil? Also wondering if changing the mechanical fuel ump to a low pressure (4-6psi) electronic pump should be a consideration. Engine compression is good on all 8 cylinders. So rings and valves should be good. Prior owner said it was losing power at high RPM and had to be throttle back down to catch up. So, planning full electrical tune up (including coil, cap/rotor, wires, and plugs). Figured I'd deal with original fuel pump as well as checking out and cleaning the carb. Other thoughts appreciated also.

Greg,
I suggest locating the problem before "modernizing". There are 10's of thousands of engines out there running great for many years with mechanical fuel pumps and original ignition systems. If you suspect a fuel pressure problem, "T" a mechanical pressure gauge into the line between the pump and carb. The 289 is a fantastic reliable engine.

How about posting some pictures of the new to you Skier?

Here is a pic right after buying it and getting it to my father in law's pole barn.

https://flic.kr/p/2ias93K

The originalist on this forum like sticking with oem distributor and points, keep spare set points in boat with very fine sandpaper to clean. Legitimate approach for vintage boat
However my oem prestolite was rusty and worn so I had it rebuilt, I’m keeping as backup or nostalgia
I did upgrade to a ‘marine’ Pertronix electronic billet distributor, seems to run great, spark is probably more accurate
But listen to all feedback and formulate your own decisions

Try this,   btw nice boat

skier

Cool boat. Nice score. Over time you should systematically go thru everything to make sure ALL is cleaned out and function properly (fuel tank, carb clean). Start with easy cheaper stuff (plugs, wires, check alternator) and process eliminates will keep you going and running better more reliable on water
In an old car of same age I would probably keep points, but I wanted to be more reliable on water and eliminate possible distributor issues

8122pbrainard wrote: Unless you carry a spare EI module on board, you may need to get the paddle out.

Is that what you do with your conversion??
It has been my experience that you will replace/clean 100 sets of points to 1 module. Kinda think that is why OEM now all have EI installed at factory. Points have a given life span. Not arguing , just the facts.
Has any one switched their cars from factory EI back to points?? Wondering why??

Duane in Indy wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Unless you carry a spare EI module on board, you may need to get the paddle out. Is that what you do with your conversion??

The 302 in the Tique is an EI. Thankfully no problems yet but carrying a spare module has crossed my mind.

GregD. There is a pertronix electronic module only that may fit inside your existing oem distributor shaft and case. However the full billet distributor unit and black cap look stock
What ever you do, do not ask about or use a orange Fram filter. The forum site will crash

Duane in Indy wrote: Has any one switched their cars from factory EI back to points?? Wondering why??

Yes I have. It’s been a long time though. When the ignition system was designed all the electronics were in the distributor. As it went through it’s heat cycles it started breaking down. As you’d drive it would just shut off and as time went on it would take longer to restart. The key to tell if it was the ignition and not something else was as it shut down to look at the tach- if it was dead it was your EI. The manufacturer’ fix was a new distributor and move the internals to the firewall. I put a points distributor from an earlier car I had just to make it useable and later put in a full centrifugal point distributor.

And I thought he was going to LS it

With an older boat check that the fuel pump is a marine unit. Former owners might have replaced it with the much less expensive automotive mechanical fuel pump. When the diaphragm begins to leak (they all do eventually), the fuel drips will not fall on the ground like they would on a car, the fuel will go into your bilge. The result is often not pretty.

If you switch to an electric fuel pump, regs require that it stop pumping when the engine stops. Naturally the mechanical pump stops when the engine is not turning. For the electric fuel pump the solution is often to use a reverse acting oil pressure switch, which permits pump running only when the oil pressure is up. The common variety of oil pressure switch turns on an idiot light when the pressure falls.

To do it right you will have some plumbing to do with small fittings for the oil pressure along with wiring for the pump & the changes to the fuel lines.

There is elegance in simplicity, and that "old style" mechanical pump begins to look better when you consider the alternative system.

Love the look of that boat, thanks for putting the link to your pictures. Hope you have a great time with it.

Jack