Water in Transmission Fluid

That's it . Has it started slipping yet . You will need to replace the trans cooler and flush it 5-10 times until all signs of water is gone . Maybe you got lucky

BRKOUT1K wrote: Thank you for the help...I"m hoping that is the case and caught it before any damage. I just ordered the trans cooler this morning and have flushed it a few times already. Working through some other gremlins with regards to the cooling system in hopes that it will make it through the summer.

I love your screen name.

Did you solve the problem with the new cooler?

Is this a Ford Engine? Another source can be the Front Cover. If the gaskets leak or you get some rot in there it can let water into the engine.   It has happened to others.

You could look at the core plugs, these sometimes get pushed out from a freeze event. Look under the manifolds, they are about 2 inches in diameter.

They are cheap & easy to replace.

Hope you get off work in time to watch the SB.

Hey ‘ 1.5 K’. Your experience with this boat sounds very similar to mine
Your replacing all the right basic parts, there will be more
If you have skills wrenching find your inner Zen and keep going
Make it a relaxing hobby like water color painting
If you feel overwhelmed look at the ‘longhorn nautique thread

BRKOUT1K wrote: Any way to post video on this forum? I still haven't figured out how to upload pics yet..

Brian,
Click on the full reply editor or the Post reply. Then click the tree with the up arrow. A browse box will come up allowing you to select anything off your computer. Mobile devices don't work without lots of maneuvering.

Brian,
Looks like it's time to get the Dremel out and the epoxy and see how long it will last. I highly recommend a Devcon, Lord or Loctite steel filled epoxy. Don't go the JB route as it being formulated for the backyard hack who can't mix equal amounts, it's made to be forgiving and not as strong.

Pete & Paul,

Thank you both for the advice on this one. Typically, are these leaks associated with the heads only or likely to be with the block as well?

Brian

KENO,

Thank you Sir for your help..

I'm looking forward to the next trip on the water for some more video footage in hopes of a 'positive' report.

Brian

Well, kind of narrows it down some. Leaks around the head bolts.
I don't know Ford engines well enough to say for sure but if those bolts go into the water jacket they need to be treated with a bolt sealer before install.
Many engines have head bolts that go into the water jacket and a bolt sealer can dry it up.

If your heads are cracked I am sorry, they are available and not too much money.

Time for a new forum name, this one has you jinxed.

So what's the plan?

You're probably figuring you can goop up the bolt threads and retorque them and you'll be all set...............problem solved.

You probably looked on the internet and found that half of the people say that the 351W head bolt holes go into the water jacket and the bolt threads need to be sealed while the other half say the holes are blind holes that don't communicate with the water jacket.

Now you need to figure out who to believe.

If I was you, I'd take the bolts out one at a time and clean the area around them real good and look for head cracks near the holes and stick something down the bolt hole and see if it bottoms out or just goes right into the water jacket.

Last time I checked this on a 351W they were all blind holes that don't penetrate the water jacket.

It's been a while though, roughly 10 minutes ago was when I checked a couple of 351W blocks in the garage

Don't take my word or anybody else's though..........check it yourself on your own engine.

Assuming you're doing this gooping up of the threads, then you need the torque spec for the head bolts. You'll find a good half dozen different values for the final torque if you do a search. I can tell you some numbers if you need them.

If you do find water in the bolt holes, it got there through a path that shouldn't exist like water jacket corrosion in the block or heads, an external crack like originally mentioned that goes all the way to the bolt hole or a bad head gasket, but that would probably be leaking internally into the engine or externally at the gasket joint which doesn't seem to be your problem.

Maybe you'll goop them up and at least temporarily solve your problem, it's worth a try since it'll cost you nothing but some of your time and a container of your favorite thread sealer. Good luck and keep the thread updated   

KENO wrote: BRKOUT1K wrote: Pete & Paul, Thank you both for the advice on this one. Typically, are these leaks associated with the heads only or likely to be with the block as well? Brian Since neither of them guys answered, it's a weakness in the GT40 heads. They seem to crack more than the earlier heads or the later GT40P heads Your block can be fine and the heads can be leaking. A good close inspection will tell you where the leaks are.

Sorry didn't mean to leave ya hanging, had a long night of work had to get caught up on sleep. I knew you'd be in good hands with Ken picking up my slack.
Exactly what Ken said and so you know he is the search and find Guru

You guys rock! I couldn't be more appreciative with your help on these subject. I'm really convinced that I have some cracks in the head and will be pursuing new heads as my primary plan. I just don't want to risk further damage to the engine since it seems to be running well for the most part As much as i'd like to limp along and save the $ on a temporary fix, I'm thinking the experts of this group would recommend putting new heads on for a successful summer. I might have to keep my day job and get a little help on this repair before we kick off the summer. I'll keep y'all posted once I've made progress and have completed the repair. Might be a few months of 'money laundering' so the wife doesn't know how much a B.O.A.T. really costs:)
Again, thx for all the follow-up & expertise...

Awesome...I'll be on the lookout for some GT40P heads.