Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild

UPS delivered at 5:30 CST and I swapped it out with the help of my son in 1.5 hours. Maybe this weekend I’ll actually get something accomplished.

I’m struggling with my shifter. I edited this photo, hopefully you can read what I said...

Here’s a shifter I found on EBay that looks like mine - notice the arms are not “square with the world”. Anybody know anything about the apparent 2 different “styles” of shifters? It seems some have bias built in and others are neutral and provide equal travel in either direction...

Chuck

The link below may help out, lots of pictures and a good description of what he (Storm34) did

link

My theory isn’t quite true. I’m back to thinking there’s at least 2 designs. Here’s a picture of mine. Notice it only has 1 detent “slot”, but more importantly notice it is NOT 180 degrees across from the teeth. Like I said before, that causes more travel (from neutral) in one direction vs. the other on the shift arms. I’m nearly convinced this shifter is not for this boat.

And then the clouds parted and the sun shown through! I already have a flywheel collection, I didn’t want to start a shifter collection too.

Thanks!!!

PS / Also notice I’ve achieved ‘Senior’ status...it’s about damn time!

Thanks zwoobah, I will consider your suggestion. I’ve had a few setbacks lately like flywheels, controls, and yesterday was carburetor issues. These things are to be expected. Tonight, I decided to install my new 50oz. balancer. The PO supplied a new balancer with the project, but it’s a 28oz. Please excuse the dirty pans, we’ve been cooking a lot at home lately.

Interesting, I haven't ever done a boil to fit like that. We've heated bearings in oil to install them before, but not solid steel like that. I have used a bit of heat with a torch, but obviously your method gets the whole part evenly heated.

Chucky

Just thought I'd mention something that you probably already know but none of the multiple timing scales marked on that balancer will work since it's for a normal rotation engine and your's is , I guess you could say "bacerds rotating"

"bacerds" is an old CCF term by the way

But,,,,,,,,,,,when you check, one of the zero's will line up with your pointer at TDC and you can make your own marks, put a timing tape on backwards or use an advance type timing light.

PS The mailman should have something for you on Thursday

Makes me wonder...Was there any conflict between Correct Craft and Ford motor company over the “Mustang” name? Just curious...

Chucky wrote: Makes me wonder...Was there any conflict between Correct Craft and Ford motor company over the “Mustang” name? Just curious...

A blast from the past Chucky

link

I'd guess that the two rubber "no hubs" with the PVC adaptors were intended to fit the exhaust through hulls so anti freeze could be collected/recirculated. Way over complicated and time consuming. Drain water and pour the anti in.

Just what I was thinking / Thanks for the input. I’ve decided to install the wedge under the carb. I had to paint it to match, as it was the wrong shade of blue. Things are progressing nicely. The raw water pump is now assembled with all new parts and pulley alignment is looking excellent. I used a bit of “rubber safe” silicone lube inside the pump as opposed to liquid soap, because I’m not sure how long it’s going to sit and soap eventually dries up and turns gooey. I ended up using a hose clamp around the middle of the impeller to gently fold the rubber flappers over. That allowed it to easily fit partially inside the housing. Seemed to work pretty good. Once it was started, I removed the hose clamp and pushed it the rest of the way in.
Here’s a shot of the bearing that KENO identified previously in this thread. Thanks to Ken for that bit of info and his support in my quest to have a shifter that works.

Foam earplugs make excellent “paint masking plugs”. I had them stuffed in at least a dozen holes on my engine, prior to painting. They are much better than odd chunks of masking tape rolled up into little balls. And significantly better than doing nothing at all. I’ve cleaned out a lot of paint from holes that someone should have done something to, prior to painting. They can even be cut shorter for those small holes (like 1/4”). Luckily I peaked in the oil pressure sensor hole and got the little wad out first.
THIS PHOTO FOR EXAMPLE ONLY - DO TRY THIS AT HOME!

I had to redrill the 3/16” pin that passes through the trans engagement shaft. It needed to be “square” with the square head on the end of the shaft, as mine was not. Well, it is now and I’m only waiting on new brass cable ends to be able to proceed with rigging. The empty hole in the photo is the factory hole.