Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild

I had issues with the new cable ends a couple of years ago. The new one was a bit longer than the original and would catch on the other arm and prevent movement. I have some pictures in this link.

Link

Keep us posted on your strainer progress. I like the idea of having one, but don't know where I'd put it on my '68. The boat has made it 52 years without one so it's probably fine.

Happy belated birthday Pete! I really didn’t want to install that plastic POS. I’m not saying it isn’t happening for sure...but most likely not. Keep it simple stupid. Lots of progress being made...crazy amount of mock-up, assembly, disassembly being done. Social distancing couldn’t have come at a better time. Stay healthy everyone!

Looks nice!

Being a fabricator I would prefer aluminum elbows there. Especially because of being 90*. You could have the whole "S" bend welded together.

When I put mufflers on I had to cut out the floor out under the seat because of the same reason. Your back seat is probably different but the concept is the same.

Duane in Indy wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Chuck, Those elbows have been used by other members and I haven't heard of any problems. I believe their intended use is for a large diesel cooling system. Has anyone on here ever checked the manifold exit temp when running at high RPM? Would be interesting info. Not sure of what the rubber is rated for either. If I were not a fabricator then I would tend to go the rubber route myself. What we need on here is an Engineer.

Duane,
I've never checked the actual temperature but I have laid my hand on exhaust hose so, I doubt the temp gets anywhere close to the 250 degrees. I did some checking on straight marine exhaust hose and found that it's rated at 200 continuous and 250 intermediate. I feel and some can contest to it that the only time the exhaust gets way up there in temp is when cooling water is lost.

BTW, my stating those 90's of Chucks are intended for a diesel cooling system may be wrong. Here's Shield's 90's desiged for the job.

You left out which phase the moon was in at the time.
Thanks for the replies everyone / it all helps! Time to grill steaks, broil asparagus and have a few deviled eggs as an appetizer. I’ll get back on the boat soon.

Duane in Indy wrote: KENO wrote: By the way, did you ever put in a pressure gauge or switch? Would be pretty simple to install a thermocouple in the maniflold near the exit. I think I have a spare gauge laying around the hangar.   Hmmm

Install it in the elbow after the water enters the exhaust.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5vUJd02SUxg

Ok...practicing posting a video (for future “on water” fun). I made an aluminum bracket to mount the shifter without cutting a giant hole in the fiberglass. I’ll simply cut a U shaped notch in the (future) interior panel, to slip up from below. New “Morse” cables purchased from Jegs. I’m very happy with the quality, and they say “made in the USA” on them. I also purchased a real nice carb cable bracket ($21) to make for a clean install. The shifter works incredibly! The 3 detent gear that Keno sent me is the “cat’s ass”. From neutral to forward or reverse is “the next” detent...and then beyond, is all throttle. It’s exactly the way it’s supposed to be. I have no idea how it ever worked before. Thanks Keno for the parts!

Chucky wrote: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5vUJd02SUxg Ok...practicing posting a video (for future “on water” fun). I made an aluminum bracket to mount the shifter without cutting a giant hole in the fiberglass. I’ll simply cut a U shaped notch in the (future) interior panel, to slip up from below. New “Morse” cables purchased from Jegs. I’m very happy with the quality, and they say “made in the USA” on them. I also purchased a real nice carb cable bracket ($21) to make for a clean install. The shifter works incredibly! The 3 detent gear that Keno sent me is the “cat’s ass”. From neutral to forward or reverse is “the next” detent...and then beyond, is all throttle. It’s exactly the way it’s supposed to be. I have no idea how it ever worked before. Thanks Keno for the parts!

I'd send you some Edelbrock mounting instructions, but I figure you mounted it backwards on purpose

You probably just wanted to see if anybody noticed .................well I did   

It makes me think of off roading, hill climbing and float bowl levels.

Hope it works for ya'

PS I won't mention anything about anything else I noticed since you might have sorta' made mention of or hinted about the something else previously

That’s a nice touch.

I have 3 distributors to choose from, including the Mallory YL crab cap. It’s cool looking, but beyond that, I’m not impressed. I could, and might go into great detail on what I think sucks about the YL, but if you wait too long before posting your reply on this website, it erases your post because you “timed out” or whatever. So, maybe I will type a big reply and “cut and paste” it later.
Briefly though...
1.) the cap to body fit is sloppy / you can easily wiggle the cap.
2.) it’s a points distributor, which is outperformed by an electronic version.
3.) the rotor tip to cap electrode measurement is HUGE. I’ve been researching rotors and it’s not the 309 and it’s not the black one when you google “Mallory YL rotor”.

I better post now before CCF cuts me off.

Well, I finally recalled the PO mentioning “re-glassing” the mufflers. Now I know what those PVC adapter things (posted earlier) were for. They were to pressure test the mufflers. I’d like to post more details, but I simply don’t have all the time in the world. You can kinda see the “fresh wrap” of fiberglass on the muffler nipples (note that there’s only about 1/2” of new fiberglass on the nipples). Why they left the old, mismatched, rusted, too short nipples in place makes no sense to me. They obviously separated or “leaked” which is what drove the repair. My thoughts are that the 2 different materials expand and contract at much different rates which caused the initial failure and it’s bound to happen again. Anybody need some mufflers? I’m not using them, or the rubber 90’s.

Chucky wrote: 2.) it’s a points distributor, which is outperformed by an electronic version.

You are opening yourself up for a lot of controversy with that statement. I know a guy on here that has had the original set of points in his boat for nearly a hundred years or so and only adjusts them every 60 years or so.
I would hang onto those mufflers. They can still be repaired to near new with little effort. New ends that you can wrap yourself and install new baffles as needed. Your rear seat passengers will appreciate mufflers. They really don't suppress a lot of noise but do make it more tolerable.
Enjoying reading about your resto. Nice work. Keep it up. Duane in Indy