Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild

Yeah, you don't want those mufflers. My rear seat passengers can't hear anything at speed, but it we want to cruise quietly we take the pontoon. I've been told that I have the best sounding boat on the lake :)

Turns out it’s 5’ long. Send me a private message. I’ll sell it at 50% off the lowest advertised price you can find. You pay shipping + there’s a $10 COVID upcharge.

I haven’t been around here long, but long enough to understand the “safety first” moto and I appreciate that. There’s no controversy in terms of my point of view on the points vs. electronic issue. My main reason for favoring electronic ignitions is EASE OF STARTING. I know for a fact it makes a difference. I personally have installed Pertronix, Crane XRI, and a few GM HEI’s all in place of a well maintained, good running points system. My first car ran the famous Bosch 009 in 1989. I’m not a stranger to points. They have their place. I fully understand shunts, resistance leads, and Ohms law. I’m not an engineer, but I play one on the internet. I also know a match book cover (remember those?) is about .032” thick.

I most certainly don’t want this thread, which is primarily for documentation and also, hopefully, entertainment to be ‘side tracked’ by a long, drawn out spewing of opinions. Having said that, I truly do take all suggestions seriously. Seriously, I do.

Chucky wrote: And now, for something completely different (remember that show?).... I completely messed up on my Mallory cap to rotor tip measurement. Oops! Sorry about that. So...am I allowed to run the Mallory YL or??? (Nervously biting fingernails waiting for response).

11 minutes .........quit biting

Does it look like this?

   

Where did I dig that picture up? That's your workbench isn't it.

It (YL519B) was the original equipment Marine distributor on a Dearborn 289 back then.

I guess that means the answer must be yes

And the rotor according to what I have is a Mallory 319 or NAPA 18-5411

Some places also list the 318 as a fit

The jury is still out on the distributor, but in the meantime, some “filler” while we wait for the return of normalcy...
I purchased this dipstick, with adjustable 1/4” threads months ago. Turns out, my block threads are 1/8”. So, I ordered up a 1/8” x 6” long brass nipple. The stick fits in it beautifully. I will trim and mark the stick after the break-in and refill.

^^^That’s a good option^^^. If I need to bend the tube, that would work. Here’s some more details... I’m working on a bunch of different things all at the same time, striving towards wiring and an eventual engine start. I felt the fuel system needed to be upsized, or at a minimum, at least standardized to 1 continuous size. 3/8” or AN-6 is what I determined was appropriate. The new fuel pump itself has a 3/8” nipple for the suction side and a 5/16” inverted female flare for the pressure side. I’ve seen what happens when the diaphragm fails, so I’m looking into routing a line up to the carb. I’ve replaced / converted all the fittings over to AN-6. I’m losing more originality by converting, but this boat has been messed with so much now, there’s no turning back. I still feel I’m giving it a second chance. I do have the original brass valve and the braided brass flex hose if someone is doing a restoration.

Really looks like your making progress weekly
And getting close maybe
Are you planning a launch this spring/summer

I'll guess Starboard near the rear with a plastic nipple is the bilge pump and the metal one is the vent.

Even back then the vents had a small spark arrestor screen in them and with a mirror you should be able to verify that it's there.

You could check a few pictures on the site to verify this

PS Use a milk crate instead of a cardboard box

Everything looks good except those 45's at the transom,get rid of them.....

Those 45's are going to create a winterizing problem. Unless you stand the hull up on end, you will trap lots of water. The pipe should go straight back to the rubber couplings on the transom thru hulls.

Why the Silfos?

What is silfo? That's a new one for me.

I do think it will be hard to get enough water out to be confident you don't have a relatively full pipe just before the transom 45 and burst it. How about adding a drain to the lower front 45 below the manifolds. You could open them, easy to get at from under the doghouse, and I'm thinking if you drop your trailer tongue right onto the ground it would have enough forward tilt to drain the pipes.

Just FYI / regardless of the exhaust system, I have to lower the tongue of the trailer during the winterization process due to the block drain on the starboard side being located at the front of the block (the high side). The plan is to place my floor jack under the tongue and drop it as low as it will go. I’m quite sure I could slip a garden hose (hooked up to my shop vac) into the exhaust and get all the way up to the low elbow at that time.

Keno was “correct” on the screen inside the metal fitting on the transom (gas tank vent). I think these 1/4” thick aluminum “washers” will prevent future damage from people climbing on the swim platform.

The crab cap Mallory is unofficially for sale.

Trying to get the count up

Chucky wrote: The crab cap Mallory is unofficially for sale.

GOOD! I know it's silly, but I don't like the way they look. Nice progress!