Engine Rebuild

jterr wrote: Update: After putting engine back in the 83 everything hooked and running. Carb. has been rebuilt but I noticed at idle there was fuel dripping in the 2 back throats. I don't think that is normal, could something be stuck from sitting so long???

I'd start by taking the back bowl off and looking for junk in the needle and seat assembly and checking float level.

Or, from the backyard hacker's handbook.............with the engine running, whack the bowl area near the needle and seat assembly a few times with the handle of a screwdriver and sometimes that works to dislodge a piece of junk or unstick a sticking float   

jterr wrote: I guess there is no way to drain gas out of that bowl

Oh yes there is

Use a small catch container and pull one of the bottom attaching screws out to catch most of what's in there.

Gary S wrote: I just happen to have a current picture. I just might be the only one summerizing my boat but I'm done for the season...... You can use just about any container if you cut it down,I was partial to something cool.

Don't use styrofoam... I have a little plastic cup with a built in protrusion that is perfectly shaped to capture the gas out of one of those draining screws... I am sure I got it at summit or someplace like that. I am also sure that I have never once had it handy when I was removing a float bowl full of fuel....

I rebuilt a couple engines in the last couple months, for the internal parts needed I purchased at Summit and Rock Auto.   I know parts and they offered parts at prices my local shops could not match.   Sorry to say but true.   Be careful with internet searches when buying internal parts.   There are a lot of low priced un proven parts for sale out there. I saw them on Amazon and Ebay.    
I will share a safe list of internal engine parts and brands you can trust below.
Pistons : Mahle, Sealed Power or Silvolite are good
Rings: Hastings, Sealed Power or Mahle
Bearings   I like Clevite or Federal Mogul, other brands like ACL, King or Clemex are all second tier products
Gaskets: I try to stick with Fel Pro but Victor/Mahle also have great product.   Don't go cheap on gaskets, leaks are very hard to fix later.
TIming:   Cloyes is #1, they also box product for Sealed Power, Melling and others but the brand you want is Cloyes.
Oil Pumps   Melling is first choice, if you buy a Sealed Power pump Melling is in the box.
Freeze Plugs   Choose Brass, they don't rust out, Pioneer is a good source
Sealed Power offers complete kits which use the parts listed above in the sealed power brand name.   The list above assumes you are building a factory stock or close to stock engine.   If you want 500 HP you may need to upgrade to other brands.

jterr wrote: Got another problem with electric. Had a short on one of my connections and thought I fixed; now the Tach just pegs all the way to right. Any suggestions on what to check???

John,
Does it peg with the engine running all the time or when you turn on the ignition key to run?

John,
I think you have some wires mixed up. Check that the gray sender wire is only connected to the negative coil terminal and that it's not shunted with any other wire. or terminal.

jterr wrote: Pretty sure that is how it is connected ,but will check tomorrow Thanks

AND

8122pbrainard wrote: John, and that it's not shunted with any other wire. or terminal.

Get the VOM out and check after disconnecting one end of the gray wire.

jterr wrote: Found the problem-wire colors are faded out. I think connected correct now.

Rather than "thinking", I'd again suggest:

8122pbrainard wrote: Get the VOM out and check after disconnecting one end of the gray wire.

Well after a couple hours rechecking and redoing connections most everything is working-except the lighted switches
They have been working all the time till today??? oh well back to rechecking

jterr wrote: Bad fuse at the key switch, replaced with a 32v ( all I had) lights work. Back to Tach- still pegs to right. Thought I would just take off wires at coil, still pegs when turn key on What to check now?

John,
did you get the VOM out and check that gray wire. Also, disconnect the gray wire at the tach an check it for voltage when you turn the key on. Report back what you get

BTW, voltage ratings on fuses are the MAX rated volts.

Alrighty then-here are the results
Disconnected wire from Tach got a reading of 11.01 volts with key in on position.

Tach is still pegging even with that wire disconnected so I must have something wrong somewhere

Back to the boat

John,
The "G" terminal on the tach should be ground.

The light blue and black wires should not be connected. The light blue is the positive feed for the instrument lighting and the black is the ground for the same.

jterr wrote: The light blue and black wires should not be connected. The light blue is the positive feed for the instrument lighting and the black is the ground for the same. **Check. They aren't connected anywhere I can find, but when I check the continuity they are together somehow. I guess I will take off all the blue light wires I see if I can see a difference./QUOTE] How about that red wire??

John,
What are you using to check continuity between the light blue and black? If not resistance with a VOM, then you are getting continuity through the instrument light bulbs.

That red wire is the main positive feed to the dash.

I was using the meter sound to check
Don’t know how to check residence.
Also the purple ignition wire is doing the same with the ground.
I’m gonna stop for the day as I really not close to understanding bout brain dead
Have to regroup tomorrow

Just a note I don't think those lights in the gauges work as I have not seen anything light up. My new switches are the things I was talking about the were lighting up.
Tomorrow is another day