83 New Stringers & Floor

URGENT REQUEST
I'm looking for more vinyl trim for carpet(Pic). I bought all one supplier had and he said will not be getting anymore. Gundriver sent me a link from Nautique Parts-bought 12 feet and it is not the same .
I need 12 feet if anyone knows where to find.
Thanks
JT

Long Time Coming -Motor going back in

Any info on replacing the O-ring behind shifter on tranny??

KENO wrote: The info in the link might work for you     CRMav did his with a 210 O ring and still had some leakage, (not sure how much) maybe his case is scored or the O ring wasn't quite right. I've used a 210 O ring with no leaks link

Done Thanks

jterr wrote: Question- after replacing those cutlass bearings in the strut it is really hard to turn prop shaft, do they just break in normally??

Put some soapy water on the cutlass and try again. If that's doesn't help, then it sounds like you need to do some more alignment.

jterr wrote: Should one turn on each motor mount be the same travel???

Same thread pitch so yes.

jterr wrote: Here is another dealing with that shaft coupler , I got it the same all the way around with a gauge. Question is how to get it .003 without using the nuts and bolts? I'm not strong enough to push I guess...

John,
You may have missed the point of the .003". The .003 is the max difference between the faces of the couplings all around and not a specific .003. Say you measure .013 on one side and .010 on the other, then you are within spec. You are checking for the shaft to be parallel to the engine.

John,
I'd double check to make sure you don't have more than the .003 difference top to bottom side to side.

EDIT:
John,
I'm getting the feeling that you may not be grasping the concept? The gap shown in the picture looks to be over .003 so, if the opposite side gap is zero, then the alignment isn't good.

8122pbrainard wrote: John, You may have missed the point of the .003". The .003 is the max difference between the faces of the couplings all around and not a specific .003. Say you measure .013 on one side and .010 on the other, then you are within spec. You are checking for the shaft to be parallel to the engine.

Is the prop shaft "happy" (turns freely) in the strut and is close to center in the log where it is now?

Raining here in N. Florida so time for Q & A.
#1
Was looking under boat and noticed the prop and rudder aren't lined up, how can that be??
#2
Suggestions on how to fix to just paint??

Where does the fuel gauge get power from as it isn't working , and has a new sender. Couldn't be hooked up wrong

John,
Here's your diagram: Have you been following it?

jterr wrote:

Considering all the problems you're having with the wiring, maybe you should just rip it all out and start over?

8122pbrainard wrote: John, Here's your diagram: Have you been following it? jterr wrote: Considering all the problems you're having with the wiring, maybe you should just rip it all out and start over?

But I'm having so much fun getting to know my Boat

JT

You have too many topics in different threads

The voltmeter was mentioned 4 days ago in the thread about the tach in the "engine rebuild" thread.

See the last sentence of the quote below

Seems like you're in between early and late diagrams with that boat as CC was switching to voltmeters about then.

Your 10 gauge Red wire from the harness should go to the BAT terminal on the key switch and the 10 gauge Orange from the harness would go nowhere and have no power on it..

Back at the engine the 10 gauge Orange from the alternator would go to the breaker or the starter solenoid to give the charging path to the battery with the voltmeter setup and the Orange that runs up to the dash would be cut and taped off.

It's kinda hard to explain without being there

If you had an ammeter that 10 gauge Orange wire would have power going up to the ammeter, then from the ammeter it would go to the key switch thru the Red wire you're missing

KENO wrote: JT With the gray wire hooked up to the coil(-) your reading of 11 or so volts is normal with the key in the Run position depending on the points position. Assuming you have points, if the points are open when you turn the key to Run, you'll have the same voltage as what's going into the (+) terminal of the coil from the ignition switch. If the points are closed when you turn the key to Run, you'll have no voltage because the coil is going to ground through the points. If you pop the cap off and see if the points are open or closed, you'll know what you should be seeing for voltage based on the above. The tach needs 12 volts from the key, a ground connection and then the pulse signal to give indication comes from the gray wirehooked to the coil (-). The pulse itself is that change from 12 or so down to zero volts every time the points operate. With it pegging when the key is turned to Run, you should probably look on the back for a small switch for selecting the input. It might be inside a little hole or you might be able to see it pretty easily. Most tachs have this selector. With a little "tweaker" you can move that switch from it's present position to the next position in either direction and cycle it back to where it was a couple of times. This will clean the contacts if they're dirty or have a little corrosion. Different tachs are labeled differently but you should find the switch in the 8 cyl position and end up with it back there too.. Then with all the wires hooked up normally, it may work again. It won't hurt to try this. I have a tach that does just what yours does and needs this every few years or so And then again, maybe it's just dead If it's an electronic ignition in the distributor, all the same info pertains Just an oh by the way....................your dash diagram shows an ammeter setup and your photos in other threads for this boat show a voltmeter next to the ignition switch so that explains your missing red wire you mentioned.

Here are a few before/after pics:\ well all I can get to load