HELP

I need some help. im a new boat owner. i just bought a 1995 ski nautique with 5.8L engine it. i changed out the spark plugs and changed the oil in it when i first got it. i took it out on a small lake last night and it ran really good for about 30 mins and i was planing across the lake at 45mph and all the sudden it died and i couldnt get it started at all. i had to paddle all the way back. any suggestions? my thought it could be distributor cap, spark plug wires, fuel pump or igntion control module any thought will be greatly apprcetiated

I checked the saftey kill switch. it was on tight.

I havent looked at the safety kill switch anymore. i took cap off distributor and rotor was in pieces.

the lady i bought it from said it was happening last year as well but she didnt say if she replaced the rotor or not. it doesnt look like she did but i just wonder how it wouldve drove decent on the lake with a worn rotor before it all together died on me

is there a certain kind of distributor to get when buying one for a 351w? ive seen some reverse rotaiton ones or can i get a regualar one

its a carbureated engine and i dont think rotor replacement was fix ethier. the engine is a 5.8L and says pcm all over it but it doesnt have the dress up kit like the GT-40. when i replaced the rotor it ran decent but not good. it felt like it was misfiring on a cylinder and at full throttle i still didnt have abunch of power. my next step is to replace distributor and sparkplug wires. my guages dont work so im unsure of temp im running at. but when i took it out on the lake last time it didnt die at idle or under throttle and it started right up. to me idle seems really slow. any advice or things to look for would be greatly apprciated.

Bailey,
As Tom mentioned above, have you had a chance to check if the distributor shaft is loose at the top from a bad bushing causing the rotor to run out?

Bailey,
It's pretty common to see corrosion inside the distributor. The most important clean up and lube is on the advance mechanism. Make sure it's moving freely. Don't worry about loose springs as they are loose normally when the RPM's are zero.

As your rotor came apart at high RPMs, you may have other distributor damage. As mentioned above, inspect your distributor for wobble, wear and the advance mechanism for proper function and lubrication.

Your boat may have a fuel filter / water separator. You may have to take the clamshell engine box off to access the fuel filter. Check on the port side of the engine compartment. It may be mounted at or below the floor level near the transmission. If your 1995 is similar to my 1994, it will look similar to a canister oil filter.

JQ

Yes, your engine has a raw water pump. The RWP sucks up the lake water or the sea water for engine cooling. Inside of the RWP, there is a rubber impeller. If the impeller is old, cracked or worn, then the pump will not pump efficiently. The result is typically overheating issues. The RWP impeller should be inspected at least annually. In my boats, I change the impeller every two years — a bit of overkill, but it’s cheap insurance in my book.

also, to add, just because its in tack doesnt mean its effective

There are many who have fallen to the hype from the impeller manufaturers who love to sell impellers. Then there's me: 

Pete, I believe your comment is true but I also believe it is true where you live.

Glad we're into boats and not airplanes

MrMcD wrote: Every time I try for 3 seasons on an impeller in CA I pay the price with impeller failure.  My local boating buddies follow the same advice.  I will stick with every two years in CA.